Jim Bowen Corrado VR6 - New engine build

[Jim Bowen 1]

:lol: I don't think so. Want to try and do the rust treatment when its a bit drier outside, so might be a few months yet.

[sankysvr6 0]

That part on the stub axle you've bent, should come off. Just looks like they have corrected on solid, a bit more persuasion should see them off. But I think the part went obsolete in March this year.

[swiftkid 1]

Erm, please forgive me if I'm wrong but it looks like you have the heater flap on wrong (the top one). Doesn't look like it moves the way you have it, the smaller leg looks like it should be in the downward position in your pic above your fully assembled photo.

 

Interesting about techtonics, will see if they do a 24v conversion downpipe, would be ideal. How much did you pay if you don't mind me asking

[Jim Bowen 1]

Ahh ****. I think you're right. Looking at the bit of foam on the smaller flap it doesn't touch anything.

 

Going to check now. See if that glue dried lol

[Jim Bowen 1]

Just checking it out and seems as if the other flap has jumped some gears at some point. Doesn't move as far as it should. Best get the hammer out again.

[robrado974 1]

Those lips are no longer available Jim . I believe they are dust flanges , for want of a better word . I got the last one from TPS in Ireland . I had a friend of mine make some up for me .

[Jim Bowen 1]

Just ripped it open. At least I know the glue was strong enough now. Flap was wrong. Glad I posted a pic. Well spotted.

 

Also sorted the other flap out. It must of skipped some teeth at some point. Works properly now.

 

Not got enough glue left to put it back together so will do that tomorrow.

[Jim Bowen 1]

Are the lips needed? It's been a nice weekend up to my ears in lips and flaps. Doesn't happen very often.

[swiftkid 1]

Good job you can rectify it before it was back in place! Although I didn't glue mine together, fairly sure it all just clips back together.

[Jim Bowen 1]

I smashed all the clips off. Really hard to undo.

[Jim Bowen 1]

Erm, please forgive me if I'm wrong but it looks like you have the heater flap on wrong (the top one). Doesn't look like it moves the way you have it, the smaller leg looks like it should be in the downward position in your pic above your fully assembled photo.

 

Interesting about techtonics, will see if they do a 24v conversion downpipe, would be ideal. How much did you pay if you don't mind me asking

 

Not totally sure without looking. Bought a few bits at the same time. Will check the invoice.

[robrado974 1]

I'm not sure they do much Jim to be honest . I just thought i'd get them made to put back as was . They didn't cost me anything , as the bloke owed me a favour .

[Jim Bowen 1]

Got them rings off now, think i will worry about what i fit back when i get nearer putting them on, got lots of other bits to get on with.

 

Think my rear discs and pads weren't working very well, am not sure if i had the wrong discs or wrong pads, i had new mk4 calipers put on a few years back. Check pics.

 

 

 

Other disc

 

 

 

Seems like the pads weren't making full contact with the disc. Someone else fitted these, was before i started doing my own work.

 

In other news, i got my clutch slave cylinder back from pastparts, they refurbish them and fit a stainless sleeve inside.

[Jim Bowen 1]

Been doing random bits over the xmas holiday, actually started putting bits back on the car so must be going in the right direction.

 

Got the Duraseal connectors and repaired the wiring and got the new ABS loom all connected up, Much prefer these to soldering, they are great to use.

 

Fusebox back in place

 

Fitted heater matrix back in, along with some of the ducts etc, ABS ecu has gone from this area, (which seems better)

 

Clutch master fitted.

 

Then got the pipe flaring kit out, another good bit of kit, never made a duff flare with it so far

 

Fitted the new Brake master cylinder and made a few brake pipes, just got the two rear ones to do

 

[Sean_Jaymo 0]

That all looks really neat! Kudos!

[Goldie 2]

Seriously impressive stuff.. Fair play to you mate...

[sexybourbon 0]

Cracking work mate well done its looking really good

[Jim 2]

Great work :) Will drive like a new car once you've finished putting it all back together!

[Jim Bowen 1]

Cheers. Should all be worth it. It's 20yrs old soon. Should have another 10-20yrs in it after this is done.

 

Been chasing rust today. That bit in the boot has led to quite a rotten rear end. Will get the photos up soon.

 

Going to need more welding. I think I'm going to try it this time and borrow my mates welder.

[Jim Bowen 1]

Took rear bumper off to check for rust, found a few bits.

 

This bit isn't so bad, should be quite easy to fix

 

Little bit in wheel arch

 

 

This is where it got bad, this is the hole that was in the boot area from earlier in thread.

 

Inside the hole

 

Outside, is quite a bit of metal that needs cutting out

 

and underneath

 

I think this must all be from the rear light leaking, should of spotted it earlier but the factory underseal hides it so well. as i broke the underseal with the chisel, a load of manky old black water came out. I will fix it up, so not too worried really. It'll just delay everything.

 

Dropped the fuel tank, wasn't too bad underneath really, hose clips had perished away though, which might explain the fuel smell i was getting.

 

 

Had a quick clean up of a suspension turret, just surface rust really.

[seanl82 23]

Top work as usual Jim, yours will actually be "rust free" when finished, rather than just assumed as most seem to. :thumbleft:

 

What product are you using for repair to the underseal when its all done? Very interested to know what is closest to OE so it blends for when I do mine. Also, where did you manage to source the clutch master cylinder in the end? looks great!

[Jim Bowen 1]

I have bought loads of different paints and sealants over the years. I think the prep has let me down in the past. Rushed a few bits

But seems to have stopped the rust getting any worse over the last 2yrs. I will be treating most of it with eastwood rubberised rust encapsulator. It's just one spray. Not used it yet though. Have used por15 in the past. That stuff dries to a really tough finish. But if your prep is bad it just peels off in one big layer.

 

Got a underseal gun with the big long hose and 2 big tins of cavity wax. So plan to have a day of filling all the sills and chassis rails etc. I just buy it all from frost automotive. Most have most of the paints they sell now.

 

I don't think my underseal will blend in as it's Black. But I find it good to know what bits I've done. Took ages cleaning all the brush on waxoyl black tar stuff from the front arches. Not sure why I put it on.

 

Clutch master is the original but sent it off to pastparts.co.uk. someone on here told me about them. Cost about £100. New one from vw was £174.

[Jim Bowen 1]

Mounted my new tweeters this evening. I just drilled the old tweeters out with a hole cutter I borrowed. Not sure they will fit under the speaker grille angled like I have them.

Can get in fitting the dash now.

[Jim Bowen 1]

Fitted tweeters to dash, mounted them from underneath to give clearance for the grills, worked a treat (mentioned in another thread somewhere)

 

Got the doors speakers fitted, had to cut away some of the inside of the pocket, but got there in the end.

 

Didn't fancy doing too much last night so did some small bits i've had for ages.

 

Got shiny door latch, interior handle and the other bit that door closes onto.

 

Manky old one

 

Then fitted everything

 

 

 

Door doesn't close properly now :lol: the latch pulls it up too high, so going to do some filing down of bits i think.

[GlosterOx 0]

Isn't there some adjustment on the striker pin (with the yellow on it) that might help?

 

Ian.