iceviolet 0 Posted January 17, 2009 do you have your own press for the valve guides? - lucky man! I made a drift tool to knock them out with, going to take it into work and use the press there to press them back in with. I wouldnt mind a press at home, come in for all sorts of things. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CorradoVR6-Turbo 0 Posted January 17, 2009 are you a mechanic? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
iceviolet 0 Posted January 18, 2009 are you a mechanic? No im a control valve engineer, so have access to tools like presses and machine tools in the workshop. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
iceviolet 0 Posted January 28, 2009 Not had much time to do much with the rebuild recently due to work and uni. I managed to get the new guides into the cylinder head and i have lapped all the valves in tonight. So i will put the head back together tomorrow. Also managed to paint the block with matt black engine paint. The oil spray jet i was waiting for arrived, all the parts are here now so it is just waiting to be put back together. Busy this weekend so i will have to start next week!! Just a quick question, has anyone any advice on putting the pistons back in?? I have a normal type piston ring compressor, i can see i will need to grind a 7.5 degree angle on this so it goes flush to the top of the block. Is this the best way to put them back in?? Just a few update pics: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
iceviolet 0 Posted February 4, 2009 Had a couple hours in the gargage this afternoon, put the crank back in. Too cold to do anything else :camp: Im going to put the pistons in tomorrow night if i get chance. Couple progress shots: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CorradoVR6-Turbo 0 Posted February 4, 2009 good work mate,have you used black marker pen on the main cap bolts when you did the deg's part? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
iceviolet 0 Posted February 4, 2009 good work mate,have you used black marker pen on the main cap bolts when you did the deg's part? yeah thats black marker pen. why you ask? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ziderapple 0 Posted February 4, 2009 There is a special VW tool for the pistons - only costs about £15 and is so much easier than messing around with grinding an angle on a normal ring compressor. Pic halfway down: viewtopic.php?f=11&t=54505&start=75 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CorradoVR6-Turbo 0 Posted February 4, 2009 good work mate,have you used black marker pen on the main cap bolts when you did the deg's part? yeah thats black marker pen. why you ask? just as i also used this method to torque bolts...not many do :wink: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
iceviolet 0 Posted February 5, 2009 sipmleist way to measure 180 degrees! Well the piston installing hasnt gone according to plan!! Messed about for ages trying to get them in with my ground down compressor, just couldnt get it tight enough around the piston. Also tried by hand and 3 cut fingers later still not going in! So im going to get that VW tool. Is there a number for it or something?? or do i just ask for a vr6 piston installer?? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CorradoVR6-Turbo 0 Posted February 5, 2009 ask for VW special tool #3278 mate. Also the sharp rings can drag on the plastic tool,use plenty of lube . Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
iceviolet 0 Posted February 6, 2009 ask for VW special tool #3278 mate. Also the sharp rings can drag on the plastic tool,use plenty of lube . Thanks for that info, ordered it today, wont be here until tuesday though Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KipVR 1 Posted February 6, 2009 Always nice to see a VR being given a new lease of life :D The crankshaft was in good nick then? I suppose being a 6 pot they don't suffer ovality the same way 4's can? :shrug: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
iceviolet 0 Posted February 10, 2009 Yes the crankshaft was fine, no marks what so ever on it and it measured up spot on. Got the tool for putting the pistons in today. Excellent tool, so easy with that. :D Feels very smooth when turning it over by hand. Cant wait to get it in the car now. Might be a while before i do the actual swap though as i need a few more bits and funds are a bit tight. Anyhow, a few pics of the pistons in their new homes! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
-Neil- 0 Posted March 11, 2009 good work! whats the price tag so far 8) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
_leon_ 0 Posted March 11, 2009 Been looking on the net for pistons, Found some that i may possibly be able to stretch to?maybe? would these be appropriate: http://www.flatlander-ipp.co.uk/wiseco/wiseco-vw.shtml Its the ones at £412. 82,82.5 or 83mm, compression ratio of 10.5:1? cheers did you ever find out more about wiseco pistons while considering them? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Neil VR6 0 Posted March 11, 2009 Good thread this :) I'm suspecting I might need to do a similar thing on my Corrado if my ignition problem turns out to be fouled up plugs on 1 and 6. Would you say you need any specialist knowledge? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
iceviolet 0 Posted March 11, 2009 Hi, not had an update for a while, i have not really done much or had the time to. I have got all the parts together now and should get the engine finished by next week. With regard to the wiseco pistons, i never looked further into them as i decided to use the stock pistons. However i think if i did actually go for some uprated pistons i would go for the wossner pistons. From what ive read they are one of the best and a lot of people rate them. Bit more expensive but probably better quality. Would you say you need any specialist knowledge? I dont think you would require specialist knowledge as such, the Bentley manual or the Peter Russek have all the information you need. good work! whats the price tag so far 8) The price tag!! As it happens, I have been keeping a record of what ive spent on the engine rebuild, all prices are rounded up to the nearest pound and inc VAT. Small items like o-rings and bolts and stuff like that i can get from work for free so they arent on the list. The only thing that isnt on the list is the oil pump, wasnt going to get a new one as ive had the old one apart and it is within tolerance but think i might put a new one in anyway. Not decided yet, they are about £100ish i think. VR6 REBUILD AAA ENGINE £150.00 RE-BORE TO 82mm £138.00 82mm PISTON RINGS £138.00 ENGINE PAINT £10.00 MAIN BEARINGS (Main Dealer) £79.00 THRUST BEARINGS (Main Dealer) £7.50 CON ROD BOLTS - ARP (Arrow Precision) £103.00 BIG END BEARING SHELLS (Ebay) £30.00 OIL SPRAY JETS (Main Dealer) £50.00 VALVE GUIDES AND STEM SEALS (GSF) £49.00 HEAD GASKET + BOLTS (GSF) £55.00 BOTTOM END GASKET SET (GSF) £44.00 TIMING CHAIN PARTS (AVS) £126.00 Total £979.50 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted March 11, 2009 Not a bad price! Good work 8) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bruny 0 Posted March 11, 2009 Looking good iceviolet, thought I'd got mine finished but issues with leaking core plugs, going to replace them with geniune VW ones, dont want to have to strip the front off again, also the new cam followers seem to be taking some time to quieten down. Hopeing a good run will bed them in once I've sorted the coolant leak from the core plugs [and heater matrix :pukeright:] Cost wise you've done well, saves a fortune if you've got the knowledge to do it yourself :notworthy: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
iceviolet 0 Posted March 11, 2009 Looking good iceviolet, thought I'd got mine finished but issues with leaking core plugs, going to replace them with geniune VW ones, dont want to have to strip the front off again, also the new cam followers seem to be taking some time to quieten down. Hopeing a good run will bed them in once I've sorted the coolant leak from the core plugs [and heater matrix :pukeright:] Cost wise you've done well, saves a fortune if you've got the knowledge to do it yourself :notworthy: I havent changed the core plugs, They looked fine and to be honest i didnt want to disturb them, so hopefully they wont leak. Im dreading the heater matrix going, ballache of a job apparently! Im sure the tappets will quieten down when the piston rings are run in and you can give it some hammer. What running in procedure are you following bruny?? Im sure there may be some extra bits to be added to the price list before the engine is fully installed,such as new mounts and things, but as for the actual engine rebuild itself i dont think ive done too bad pricewise. Makes it easier having a seperate engine to work on, so you dont need to worry about getting the car back together in a hurry. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bruny 0 Posted March 11, 2009 My rebuild costs will be double yours but I've had stuff plated, powder coated, new sump and sundries,still daren't add it all up yet :shock: Running in, I figured no more than 4000revs for first 100 miles, oil change, then give it a bit more :shrug: I dont drive it hard anyway. I am open to suggestions though. Rebuilding a spare engine is a good idea but I wanted to keep it as original as possible [ engine number etc] abit sad I guess but I'm getting hung up on concours :help: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
iceviolet 0 Posted March 11, 2009 Your build is excellent mate! :salute: . I know what you mean about keeping it original, i didnt really have the option of rebuilding my original engine as i use the car as a daily, so it cant be of the road for more than the weekend! Yeah thats what i had read about the running in, keep it low revs and then oil change after a hundred miles or so, then just take it easy with it for a few thousand. I really want to get the engine in now, think ill have to wait until april through as ill hopefully be getting a company van so the car can be off the road for as long as it takes! :clap: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Toad 0 Posted March 11, 2009 the new cam followers seem to be taking some time to quieten down. Hopeing a good run will bed them in once I've sorted the coolant leak from the core plugs [and heater matrix :pukeright:] Have you tried getting the car up to temperature then holding it at 2500rpm for 5 minutes + ? I noticed that the tappets take a while to fill, but they do sort themselves out. Usually you can hear each one fill as the engine gets quieter and quieter until it's lovely and smooth and silent. :) First one I did was horrible waiting for the noise to go... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bruny 0 Posted March 12, 2009 Thanks Toad, first time I started it I nearly cried :( sounded awful, all cam followers noisey, after five minutes it did clear. After cooling, standing and restart, it was a lot better but still took a couple of minutes, only one follower slightly tapping. Hope as it gets more use it will settle quicker to sounding like a sowing machine :cheers: Going to tackle the heater matrix now, I may be some time :gag: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites