Rotrex Charged Storm: She's Gone!

[Craig 0]

May as well make the most of being rotrex'd before Rams completes his set up as it should be a beast, so we should meet up as often as possible before rams is charged to show him how slow his Vr is ;)

[Rams 0]

Hey guys, my nice list is coming together! Just need the inlet pipe from charger to TB and theat chap in Denmark is dragging his heels. I've emailed him now 5 times wanting to buy his new upgraded silicone pipework and even called him and he said he just got back from a trip and would email me a price... Hopefully he will respond soon....

 

I also need some ARP head bolts, spacer gasket when I learn what one I need compression wise and an oil cooler for main engine oil and my list is completed for now....

 

So soon to fit, Quaife ATB diff and rebuilt box, super sprint 6 branch mani, big valve head, replacing my Miltec decat pipe for a dub power one which has flexi, bought the fuel pump, injectors, oil catch tank for rotrex oil, new oil, new filter, new fuel filter, black Samco hoses, rotrex oil cooler, C30 94 charger with TT Maf 4 inch and filter to suit.

 

I will also probably replace the plastic coolant pipe whilst its accessible. Last year I replaced the water pump.

 

Picked up my re trimmed leather parcel shelf, all the old carpet was shaved flat and then trimmed and it looks smart. Had the sides covered in Alcantara so there's no squeaks. The foot rest and opposite shroud and handle have now been trimmed, along with the plastic side rail guards. I also had to cover the seat belt bits and went for Alcantara.

 

Got lots of other bits to do but they are niggly things.....

 

Craig, I detect some fighting talk!! Lol

 

Next year I will be building up an obd2 2.8 bottom end into a strong forge weapon and charge cooler, relocate battery and hopefully I should achieve the same if not more as Bobby's made being that mine is obd2 and his was obd1. Even if theres not more power I believe the power curve maybe a nicer map...

[Rams 0]

Few more snaps

[Harrier 1]

Looking amazing Rams,be good to see it one day,maybe a Southern area meet some time in the new year ,could be a good idea ?

[Rams 0]

For sure and thank you.

 

Next year I plan to make some time to actually enjoy the car and get out and drive it. I really hope we can build up the southern team and start organising meets and outings... Your car is looking really sharp, also the seats from old to new- the comfort- they just feel like new seats.

 

Roll on good times

[emu 0]

Looks great but leather on foot rest won't last for long :(

[n3p 3]

Looks good! Were you a cow in a previous life? :lol:

[Rams 0]

Lol! Just maybe! My mother did grow up on a farm in Scotland!

 

I'm a bit of a crack head when it comes to noises and the plastic noise when you tap the foot rest to a tune or something is now a plusher sound. It's these things that make all the difference to me for the experience behind the wheel and making it more personal. Also the smell of leather is so nice. People get in and say, 'the smell of leather in here is lovely.'

[OllieVR6 0]

I really hope we can build up the southern team and start organising meets and outings...

 

You're a bit of a drive away from me but maybe if there was something around Southampton I could make the journey, would really like to see your car!

 

Also the smell of leather is so nice. People get in and say, 'the smell of leather in here is lovely.'

 

Even having standard leather I don't get a nice leather smell, that's something I miss. To me, if a car smells of leather it smells classy, I want that!

[fla 9]

 

Even having standard leather I don't get a nice leather smell, that's something I miss. To me, if a car smells of leather it smells classy, I want that!

 

Apparently there is a 'typical' vw smell of that vintage - my friend who has a mk2 remarked that my Corrado smelt the same as his...not sure if thats a good thing though! And i agree, its a shame that the leather smell cant be reinstated somehow. Some leather treatments claim to do this...

 

Would love to see your car some time Rams, perhaps THE premier 'luxury' Corrado ;)

Edited December 11, 2012 by fla

[Redfox 10]

I'm using UK based Furniture Clinic's products, and while their colouring plus some added x-linker etc. seems good and their leather care also seems okay, the later does not seem to last very long. It smells of some sort of artificial leather, and wears out after maximum one week. Furniture clinic says you can use their cleaner and their care cream a few times per year, but I've used for almost a year now every single week. The leather cleaning I allways use first, then the treatment product. It's supple and looks very good, but reinstate the leather smell like they write in their advertising - no. it does not.

I have just bought some leather care from McGuiars called "Gold Class Rich Leather Cleaner/Conditioner". If it's any good, I'll have to see, as I haven't tried it out yet.

Guess that there's not much you can do to 20 year old leather.

 

Cheers,

Redfox.

[OllieVR6 0]

I remember when we met up thinking that your Corrado smelt the same as mine!

[Rams 0]

It's been a while....

 

I would be grateful for a little push and advice to finalise my Rotrex set-up please folkes.

 

I've been gathering all the parts I need and getting very close to that goal. There are a few things still to acquire such as Engine oil cooler, and some form of cooling, Craig has been impressed with the Devils own progressive methanol kit so need to buy these bits ASAP. Plus a head spacer and appropriate head gaskets. I also need the ARP head stud kit but what's the difference with Main stud kit and Head stud kit? Do I need both? I already have the ARP rod bolt kit.

 

When i bought the supercharger kit it didn't come with an inlet pipe as Bobby ran a charge cooler and I couldnt afford the piece of art he had and didn't want to butcher up an inlet pipe from different bits so have ordered one from Denmark from CCR Racing and he's been a bit slow in responding but assures me it's in the post. It's also the newer upgraded silicone version instead of plastic or metal they used to sell. It's a direct fit for obd2.

 

I get into a muddle with the head spacer and new head gasket part. Do i need Mk4 gaskets and junk the middle one? Metal or the rubber type? The compression ratio, will this need to be decided once I know what the standard head thickness should be or do I need to measure mine incase it's had work on it before? It has titanium springs and bigger valves but that's all I know.

 

I recently picked up a big valve head and having this checked out and re faced if necessary etc, valves out and cleaned and may have the inlet and exhaust outlets polished. The engine specialist asked me what thickness the head should be a standard? No idea. Not sure how relevant that is?

 

I have green top 440 injectors, Cosworth fuel pump with v6 fitting kit, 4 inch TT Maf which reads both ways, matching air filter, C30-94 Rotrex charger, Bracket and pulley, belt and hoses, Forge fuel valve, a different decat to mine which has a flexi, 6 Branch Supersprint Manifold (nearly finished wrapping) a Quaife diff and Fidanza flywheel, SP 263 Cams, oil catch tank and other miscellaneous bits. The charger has the oil cooler and with my wing vent it should help keep the charger at a decent temperature. Have a new filter and oil for the Rotrex so I know its all sound.

 

I have all the other bits to include a new fuel filter, engine oil and filter but what spark plugs do you recommend?

 

The plan is to reach the 320 to 350 bhp mark with the current bottom end I have and with the spare obd2 engine I bought slowly start making it into a reliable Forge all singing and dancing engine which will handle boost and possibly a charge cooler and relocating battery.

 

Why do some people need to shave the block for the Pulley to line up or not fowl? I would ideally not want to do that with mine so wondered if the bracket needs altered or what the trick is? I heard this mentioned before saying there's a late and old bracket and that's the difference?

 

So to summarise, need spacer gasket and head gasket?

Main engine oil cooler? Which one/row?

Arp head or main stud kit? Both?

Devils own meth injection?

 

If I can source the above bits with your help then I'm sure I can have this all fitted very soon.

 

Rams

Edited January 12, 2013 by Rams

[alex303 0]

Rams, comments as follows:-

 

1/ Yes ideally you need the ARP Head stud kit as well as the Rod bolt kit you have already, i do not believe you need the Main stud kit

http://www.spturbo.com/onlinestore/index.php/volkswagen/vw-engine/vr6/12-valve/engine-fatseners/arp-vr6-12v-headstuds.html

 

2/ Yes most definitely to some form of progressive injection Water / Meth kit as i previously advised Craig there are plenty of options out there, i'm running the Coolingmist setup that SPTurbo sell and its also very very good, have been using it consistently for over 2 years now on my Rotrex'd 4Motion which is pushing 400bhp (no issues / no dramas)...whatever pump you buy though please make sure it can handle Meth as well as H20...not all of them can!

http://www.coolingmist.com/

 

3/ Regarding the Intake pipe-work tbh i would say Metal is better than silicone, simply because Silicone will expand slightly under boost so you're wasting boost pressure, you will need to use some silicone couplers and possible a bend to couple onto the TB but less Silicone & more Metal is better. CCR are not the quickest but they are good & know they're stuff, Christian is a very sound guy & keeps his word.

 

4/ You will need a Spacer gasket if you're planning on running more than say 8 / 10 psi of boost, IF you buy a good quality kit from say SPTurbo this will come with two stock copper crush (sealing) gaskets, you sandwich these either side of the Stainless steel Spacer and fit.

http://www.spturbo.com/onlinestore/index.php/volkswagen/vw-engine/vr6/12-valve/cly-head-spacers/12v-vr6-steel-gasket-spacer.html

 

If you are only planning on running Water/Meth as cooling initially personally i would'nt go much past 10 or 12 psi of boost, at this level you only need a 1 Point drop in compression with a Supercharger. Remember if you drop the compression by too much you will blunt the cars acceleration until it comes on boost. Bear in mind Bobby was running a fully forged engine and more boost so i'd guess the pulley you bought with kit may be too small (i.e. too much boost if say 17psi), you will need to get a larger pulley from CCR to drop it down to more moderate levels.

 

5/ Mocal Oil Cooler c/w thermostatic sandwich plate i believe mine is a 13 row (Stealth used to sell a nice kit), if you're planning on doing a LOT of track days then perhaps a larger core than this might be needed but if the rest of your cooling system is in decent shape this will be enough.

 

6/ Yes you do need to shave the head in one corner mine was the same when i had it fitted on the Rado...thats just how the bracket fits (every install has compromises), i'll see if i can take a pic for you when i get time...but its not that big a deal tbh.

 

7/ re: Spark Plugs i would ask CCR what they recomend, i'll see if i can dig out the part number of the ones i used.

 

HTH

regards

Alex

 

 

It's been a while....

 

I would be grateful for a little push and advice to finalise my Rotrex set-up please folkes.

 

I've been gathering all the parts I need and getting very close to that goal. There are a few things still to acquire such as Engine oil cooler, and some form of cooling, Craig has been impressed with the Devils own progressive methanol kit so need to buy these bits ASAP. Plus a head spacer and appropriate head gaskets. I also need the ARP head stud kit but what's the difference with Main stud kit and Head stud kit? Do I need both? I already have the ARP rod bolt kit.

 

When i bought the supercharger kit it didn't come with an inlet pipe as Bobby ran a charge cooler and I couldnt afford the piece of art he had and didn't want to butcher up an inlet pipe from different bits so have ordered one from Denmark from CCR Racing and he's been a bit slow in responding but assures me it's in the post. It's also the newer upgraded silicone version instead of plastic or metal they used to sell. It's a direct fit for obd2.

 

I get into a muddle with the head spacer and new head gasket part. Do i need Mk4 gaskets and junk the middle one? Metal or the rubber type? The compression ratio, will this need to be decided once I know what the standard head thickness should be or do I need to measure mine incase it's had work on it before? It has titanium springs and bigger valves but that's all I know.

 

I recently picked up a big valve head and having this checked out and re faced if necessary etc, valves out and cleaned and may have the inlet and exhaust outlets polished. The engine specialist asked me what thickness the head should be a standard? No idea. Not sure how relevant that is?

 

I have green top 440 injectors, Cosworth fuel pump with v6 fitting kit, 4 inch TT Maf which reads both ways, matching air filter, C30-94 Rotrex charger, Bracket and pulley, belt and hoses, Forge fuel valve, a different decat to mine which has a flexi, 6 Branch Supersprint Manifold (nearly finished wrapping) a Quaife diff and Fidanza flywheel, SP 263 Cams, oil catch tank and other miscellaneous bits. The charger has the oil cooler and with my wing vent it should help keep the charger at a decent temperature. Have a new filter and oil for the Rotrex so I know its all sound.

 

I have all the other bits to include a new fuel filter, engine oil and filter but what spark plugs do you recommend?

 

The plan is to reach the 320 to 350 bhp mark with the current bottom end I have and with the spare obd2 engine I bought slowly start making it into a reliable Forge all singing and dancing engine which will handle boost and possibly a charge cooler and relocating battery.

 

Why do some people need to shave the block for the Pulley to line up or not fowl? I would ideally not want to do that with mine so wondered if the bracket needs altered or what the trick is? I heard this mentioned before saying there's a late and old bracket and that's the difference?

 

So to summarise, need spacer gasket and head gasket?

Main engine oil cooler? Which one/row?

Arp head or main stud kit? Both?

Devils own meth injection?

 

If I can source the above bits with your help then I'm sure I can have this all fitted very soon.

 

Rams

Edited January 12, 2013 by alex303

[Rams 0]

Thanks Alex, appreciate the reply...

 

The spacer kit SP sell, shall I opt for the 9.1? Will I then need to buy a stock head gasket or will this be all I need for that department?

 

Would you know if I can put the sp263 cams in without any changes to valve clearance etc? Will that have a bearing if I use the spacer gasket or is all well to drop them in? I have just re read the forced thread and got to page 28 and been reading all day and decided to have a break and resume later. Chazzard had said something about timing and mapping around the cams and someone else mentioned expensive vernier pulleys and looking for clarification. I knew others had fitted them no problems but not sure if the spacer gasket changes things here or not?

 

The pulley I got from Bobby was 80mm and now wondering if I can use the 4 inch TT maf with my setup? I bought all the hoses and silicone connections he had and lots of pictures before he took it all out.

 

When I spoke to Christian at CCR he said they now do an upgraded inlet pipe, maybe it wasn't silicone but he said it was now an upgraded version. Quite sure he said it's not metal though, maybe I miss under-stood him but I've been waiting since middle of December and he replied last week saying its been sent and should receive it any day and that was 5 days ago so hoping next week it will arrive?

 

I will buy the aqua mist kit on Monday as per your Recomendation, will attach a picture to make sure I'm getting the right one but selected the 300 to 400 HP. Would you agree this is the one to purchase?

 

My mechanic is good with spanner work and fitted Craig's for him and as long as I can make his life as easy as possible with all the right bits and torque settings he will be fine and he did all my timing chains etc so knows his way around my engine.

 

Regarding the mocal oil cooler, do I need the cooler and sandwich plate? Do you use the sandwich plate if you bypass the standard cooler? Bit unsure on that one? Any useful links to what you would recommend I buy?

 

Pulley size, I will contact them and see what he says as soon as my bits arrive. I thought a few had run 80mm pulleys ok? Could I use it and change it if its not right or should I be fitting a larger one from the off set?

 

I will order the head stud kit Monday so that can be ticked off. It's now really compression and the sp cams I want to fully get to grips on, if I go to 8.5 are you thinking it maybe a bit sluggish as I won't be able to take much boost till the engine has low comp pistons and rods etc?

 

My engine is on 112k and did the chains and tensioners and water pump hydrolic lifters etc not long ago and the car hasn't seen many miles since then so banking on that being up together.

 

I will be having a look at your thread, 400 ponies sound very nice indeed! The penny feels like its slowly dropping or should I say my pockets are nearly empty! Lol

 

If I can run this setup for a year or something I should be able to develop the spare engine and saving for charge cooling, Pre rad and all the fruit so I can increase boost and have safety in the knowledge that the engine is capable.

Edited January 12, 2013 by Rams

[alex303 0]

Rams, no probs your welcome

 

Yes i would opt for the 9.1 kit (1 point drop) this will be fine for say 10 / 12 psi...if you drop it more than this running at that level of boost i think you'll find it annoying (blunts the acceleration at low revs) until it comes on boost. If you're eventually building up a forged engine to swap over in the future i would personally get everything up & running at this level of boost then increase the boost once your forged engine is in. No you definitely don't need to buy a stock head gasket as the SPTurbo kits come with everything your installer will need.

 

I can't honestly say about the SP263 cams as i've only used Schrick 268's, however i'm sure Shaun (who had the VR-T on here years ago) ran aftermarket cams with his earlier VF Supercharger. As i understand it the biggest issue is trying to map a Supercharged car running 'Wilder' cams, i think a lot of this comes down to the skill of the guy who's mapping your car as if you browse thru some of the threads on VW-Vortex there's plenty of guys on there running all manner of after market cams on Charged cars. I cannot see why fitting a spacer would affect your cams though or vice versa.

 

Christian @ CCR is definitely one of the good guys so hopefully your pipework is in transit, perhaps he can provide a tracking number to give you some help?

 

I've had a look at that pic your posted of the Coolingmist kit and tbh i think you would be better off with this one...

http://www.coolingmist.com/pagedisplay.aspx?pid=Vc2stage2

 

That Stage 1 kit is ok, uses good components still but probably the biggest difference is its just activated by a fairly basic boost switch, i.e. your car will hit a certain level of boost and the kit will start injecting at 100% of the injectors flow rate. A bit like turning on a water tap at full pelt if you like.

 

The Stage 2 kit i've linked about uses a 'Progessive controller' so basically you can set and VARY the pararmeters of:-

a) what level of boost it cuts in at (say for exampl 6psi)

b) what level of boost it shuts off

c) the controller will then progressively inject the amount H20/Meth between these 2 points and you can create a 'Curve' between these 2 points of how agressively you want it to do this

 

So more like turning on your water tap gently and gradually increasing it in line with the level of boost, this is important because you don't want to 'flood' the boost too soon with Water/Meth otherwise the car will feel as though it does'nt want to accelerate smoothly. Apprecaite its more money but if you make the right choice now you can use the kit on your current setup and then later with your forged engine (gives you more options & flexibility).

 

The Stage 2 kit is basically the same one that myself and a couple of mates are using, remember you also get a separate H20/Meth tank with this which you can tuck in the boot somewhere then run the plumbing up to the engine bay.

 

I'd guess that 80mm pulley is either 14 or 17psi of boost (sure Bobby could tell you), my old C30-94 it had an 90mm pulley which was good for 10psi. If it was me i'd remove the 80mm pulley and save it for when you fit the fully forged engine and buy another 90mm pulley for now (pretty sure you can buy these in the UK).

 

If your planning on getting Vince to Map your car eventually i'd speak to him about the 4" MAF, but tbh i don't see why it can't be used now as i understand it your just slowing down the amount of air that the MAF sees with the greater diameter which should make it easier for him to Map the car for you. Even if you don't use it now you certainly use it later so it definitely won't be wasted.

 

Re the Mocal yes i used & still use the Thermostatic Sandwich plate with my setup. Basically it allows the oil to reach a certain temp before it open the flow to the Mocal which in cold weather is important as your car can take ages to heat up properly otherwise. I have the Stealth kit which also keeps the stock oil cooler...the Sandwich plate then sits between this and the block, it came with a longer central feed pipe that is long enough to go through both the Sandwich plate and connect to the Stock cooler if that makes sense...hard to explain without pics.

 

I bought mine 2nd hand (but brand new) on here so i'm sorry but i've not got any links but i dare say Vince probably still sells them, they're not the cheapest kits but very comprehensive with plenty of hose & good quality fixings etc.

 

I have seen other kits for sale on the web, but just check:-

a) It comes complete with a Thermostatic Sandwich plate

b) Longer central bolt if you want to retain the OEM cooler also

b) Plenty of hose & good fixings (don't be seduced by those short shiny braided hoses as can be a right bugger if the hoses are too short) *

* Stealth include a **** load of good quality Aeroquip hose and then you can make them up to your desired length.

 

If you're planning on ordering the ARP head-studs & Spacer kit from SPTurbo you could ask them about the Coolingmist kits also as they sell exactly the same kits too (thats who i bought mine thru originally), that way you consolidate all your deliveries from the US down into one large order and hopefully save on carriage. If you drop me a pm i have some email address's that may help you.

 

For what its worth i think your doing it the right way, run everything in at a certain level of boost...run it and enjoy it for a year or so, then when your happy with everything dial it up some more with the new engine. I've not really got a build thread on here (been meaning to do one for years), but there are some pics of my old Pearl Green VR with the Rotrex C30-94 plumbed in in the FI VR6 thread somewhere.

http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?17287-The-Forced-Induction-VR6-thread&p=491427#post491427

 

The 400bhp 'devil child' (running a C38-71) is on R32OC

http://www.r32oc.com/topic/26649-alexs-rotrex-c38-supercharged-r28-updated/page__hl__alex303

 

HTH

regards

Alex

 

 

Thanks Alex, appreciate the reply...

 

The spacer kit SP sell, shall I opt for the 9.1? Will I then need to buy a stock head gasket or will this be all I need for that department?

 

Would you know if I can put the sp263 cams in without any changes to valve clearance etc? Will that have a bearing if I use the spacer gasket or is all well to drop them in? I have just re read the forced thread and got to page 28 and been reading all day and decided to have a break and resume later. Chazzard had said something about timing and mapping around the cams and someone else mentioned expensive vernier pulleys and looking for clarification. I knew others had fitted them no problems but not sure if the spacer gasket changes things here or not?

 

The pulley I got from Bobby was 80mm and now wondering if I can use the 4 inch TT maf with my setup? I bought all the hoses and silicone connections he had and lots of pictures before he took it all out.

 

When I spoke to Christian at CCR he said they now do an upgraded inlet pipe, maybe it wasn't silicone but he said it was now an upgraded version. Quite sure he said it's not metal though, maybe I miss under-stood him but I've been waiting since middle of December and he replied last week saying its been sent and should receive it any day and that was 5 days ago so hoping next week it will arrive?

 

I will buy the aqua mist kit on Monday as per your Recomendation, will attach a picture to make sure I'm getting the right one but selected the 300 to 400 HP. Would you agree this is the one to purchase?

 

My mechanic is good with spanner work and fitted Craig's for him and as long as I can make his life as easy as possible with all the right bits and torque settings he will be fine and he did all my timing chains etc so knows his way around my engine.

 

Regarding the mocal oil cooler, do I need the cooler and sandwich plate? Do you use the sandwich plate if you bypass the standard cooler? Bit unsure on that one? Any useful links to what you would recommend I buy?

 

Pulley size, I will contact them and see what he says as soon as my bits arrive. I thought a few had run 80mm pulleys ok? Could I use it and change it if its not right or should I be fitting a larger one from the off set?

 

I will order the head stud kit Monday so that can be ticked off. It's now really compression and the sp cams I want to fully get to grips on, if I go to 8.5 are you thinking it maybe a bit sluggish as I won't be able to take much boost till the engine has low comp pistons and rods etc?

 

My engine is on 112k and did the chains and tensioners and water pump hydrolic lifters etc not long ago and the car hasn't seen many miles since then so banking on that being up together.

 

I will be having a look at your thread, 400 ponies sound very nice indeed! The penny feels like its slowly dropping or should I say my pockets are nearly empty! Lol

 

If I can run this setup for a year or something I should be able to develop the spare engine and saving for charge cooling, Pre rad and all the fruit so I can increase boost and have safety in the knowledge that the engine is capable.

[Rams 0]

Your reply is just the ticket I was looking for, very clear and informative. Your a gentleman.

 

It's made me feel a lot better actually as part of my frustration was not knowing how to finish these last few bits so I can crack on now.

 

Thanks again

[alex303 0]

No probs Rams

 

Ok i've dug out my old invoice for the Spark Plugs that i was recomended to use:-

 

Denso Platinum - Q24PR-ZU £42.89 for 6No. from http://www.sparkplugs.co.uk (back in 2007)

 

from memory they were a special though and had to be ordered in, tbh i would ask Bobby what he was using and perhaps drop Christian a line

 

Basically you just want a decent plug than runs a grade or 2 cooler than stock to cope with the extra punishment, the Denso's were good & tbh i'm still running them now on a N/A setup

[Rams 0]

I have the spark plugs now, Devilsown Methanol dc30 progressive kit, been chasing CCR and Bill Wchimmel for the last couple of bits I need. Engine spacer and arp head bolts and the inlet pipe from CCR.

 

Spoke to Vince and discussed dates etc for mapping and he's advised me to not put the green top injectors in but to bring them with me as it will just flood the engine, also to disconnect the fuse for the meth kit....

 

I ordered the mocal kit Vince sells and there's no stock so he's having one made which has a bolt extension, hoses and sandwich plate etc so that's one less thing to organise.

 

Been wondering what to do..... I have a stripped OBD2 head and I have another big valve obd1 head which all appears sound. The valves look a bit dirty so wondering if I should just clean them all up and run with the obd1 BV head or use my obd2 head and have the work done on that using the valves etc from the obd1 if that makes sense?

 

The obd1 I could remove valves and clean it all up and install and when I make the bottom end a forge setup, then use the obd2 with all the flow work done and see the obd1 BV head?

 

The obd2 head has this extra little cut out for additional lubrication... See pic.

 

The other question I have is will I need to order a new fuel regulator for mapping? The car the kit came from was using a webber one as he had the short runner so the standard 4 bar regulator was not used... Any ideas if I will need this?

 

I also have to make the hole the carbon canister fits in larger so there's no fowling on the metal where the silicone hose will go down... A friend suggested a due grinder? But this is quite messy.... Bobby will give me the measurements of his hole, easy...... And I will have this done next week and sealed and will find suitable trim to cover the edge so when the engine rocks it's all safe.

 

I am also looking into a boost gauge and after seeing this kind of set up below, going to contact them to see if they can make a one off design as I love design of the gauge and just blends in with the dash. When its off, you won't notice its there and never really been a fan of the pillar mount gauges.... They are not cheap mind you but hopefully they will be able to do something.

 

Will I have to run the engine in if I use new components in the head or is it just the bottom end that you need to run in?

 

Currently my inner arches are missing because the arches have been flared/rolled etc and where the filter and maf will be down in the bumper (driver side) I need some way of adapting the liner so I have the flap which has been mentioned in the F1 thread. Has anyone done anything similar? Maybe I can cut the flap bits off and modify it in some way?

 

Regarding Rotrex oil, I have a nearly full bottle but will I need more? I've probably got 3 quarters of a bottle which bobby didn't use. Would the oil have a shelf life or am I just been over cautious?

 

Any replies appreciated.

 

Rams

[seanl82 23]

Just stumbled upon this so sorry to interrupt, but that digi gauge looks the mutts! Green LED counter would make it look quite OEM too!

[Rams 0]

I couldn't agree more! I will post the website link in a sec

 

---------- Post added at 3:37 PM ---------- Previous post was at 3:35 PM ----------

 

http://www.p3cars.com

[winchbietch 0]

Hi Rams

Would i be able to borrow the recaro ally brand you had made

 

Paul

[VAG-hag 0]

Hi Ramsey,

 

Not read through your thread for a while..... wow I love your car!!

[Rams 0]

Hi Rams

Would i be able to borrow the recaro ally brand you had made

 

Paul

 

Yes sure, I will ask the trimmer for it as he's got it at his workshop.... It's a good excuse for me to trim a spare hand brake handle as I've got one in leather and want one in alcantara so I can swap them over every once in a while. I'm going to do the same on the standard steering wheel. Alcantara for winter time!

 

VAG-hag!! Long time.. How the devil? She's getting there, got a response from Mr S today and they've got me a good rate for sending the spacer kit and ARP head bolts.

 

CCR said they don't know where my goods are and neither do the shipping company.... Sounds ominous to me but he says he's sending it out ASAP and I added to the order a new bottle of Rotrex oil and a larger pulley as the 80 maybe too small so I will keep that for later and will install the 90mm. I'll take both down to Vince just incase.

 

Mocal oil cooler should be here any day from Vince, SP say 3 working days so if CCR deliver then I will have a full house! Still need to work out if I need a fuel regulator actually?

 

I've got so much to work to do. Hopefully a few friends will lend a hand. My list is looking like as follows

 

Change fuel pump/fitting kit

Methanol Injection kit

New fuel filter

Engine oil filter.

Mocal oil cooler

Injectors

6 Branch manifold

Remove/refit BV head

Change head and rod bolts, head gasket and any other cooling components not yet previously changed.

Spark plugs

De cat pipe

SP 263 Cams to install

Samco hoses to install and inlet pipe etc

Rotrex charger, bracket, pulley, oil cooler, cutting head for clearance, making hole wider where the silicone hose sits in place of carbon canister.

Change polished rocker cover back to plastic and re paint. Convinced it was quieter with plastic one.

New headlight loom when I send my bits to Kurzy. Mine has one but it looks naff.

Remove front bumper

Replace bonnet cable trumpets or as I understand its a complete kit.

Remove dash and remove excess wires in loom.

Sort interior light switch in door.

New MOT.

Replace gearbox with Quaife diff, lightened fly wheel

 

Have no idea what she might produce on the rollers.... Never had a car on the rollers before.

 

Will it feel like a completely different car after doing all these mods? At the moment, all that's been done is OBD2, Jetex exhaust with de cat and that's it.

Edited January 25, 2013 by Rams

[VAG-hag 0]

getting there?? sounds like you will be getting there flipping quickly!! :lol: you going to national day buddy??