blue95 0 Posted May 21 Awesome reply fella!....will let you know how i get on Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
_Matt_ 32 Posted May 22 No worries! I changed my FPR today with both my old one from my white corrado (orig part) and a new bosch 4 bar item. Just trying to cure long crank when warm still... Anyway - before changing when I disconnect the vac line my engine note noticeably changes, a touch higher revs. Trying both bosch and my old one the engine note does not noticeably change when disconnecting the vac line. Perhaps a slight lumpy idle but nothing noticeable. No idea what that means. Have left the new bosch fpr installed for now. Weather is too miserable to test. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
blue95 0 Posted May 27 On 5/22/2024 at 10:09 PM, _Matt_ said: No worries! I changed my FPR today with both my old one from my white corrado (orig part) and a new bosch 4 bar item. Just trying to cure long crank when warm still... Anyway - before changing when I disconnect the vac line my engine note noticeably changes, a touch higher revs. Trying both bosch and my old one the engine note does not noticeably change when disconnecting the vac line. Perhaps a slight lumpy idle but nothing noticeable. No idea what that means. Have left the new bosch fpr installed for now. Weather is too miserable to test. Be interesting to see some live data whilst disconnecting / swapping bit out Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
_Matt_ 32 Posted June 3 Put 100 miles on the car over the last week. Today I'm off work and back home and decided to test the old FPR by putting it back in the car, going for a drive and waiting 15 mins to restart it. It cranks and cranks. Swap back to the bosch 4bar and it the car starts straight away after 15 mins sitting. The only minor issue with the bosch item is that the diameter for the vac line is smaller than the oem fpr. I'll get some smaller diameter vac line to compensate. Oem fpr in the picture. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cressa 44 Posted June 3 Sounds like you may have sorted it. I never changed this in solving my issue, but hopefully this will help someone. 👍 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fendervg 33 Posted June 4 Sounds like the residual pressure was not holding, so the pump would have to build up the pressure again during starting. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
_Matt_ 32 Posted June 4 Perhaps it was a collection of parts being weak causing an issue and this part was the last item standing with an issue. Either way can't harm anything except my wallet having a full fuel system part refresh I suppose. Clutch has got better with use too, Vince suggested doing anoter 200 miles and using the gears to engine brake to bed the clutch in. Not "right" yet but i think it will get there. I'm going back to have the subframe swapped over and some engine mounts in autumn. If i can get some uprated ARBs I will go for those too. Any thoughts on engine mounts? Understand the rear engine one is obsolete. Is vibratechnics worth it all round? I had the front one last time and no issues with vibration. Assume powerflex would be ok for the steering rack bush? Any other bushes i should look at on the steering column? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ChrisL 20 Posted June 5 Regarding the engine mounts, I bought standard Febi ones for the rears and a vibratechnics for the front one. I think I heard that vibra ones all round on a road car are not so good. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
_Matt_ 32 Posted June 5 Thanks Chris. Good you got hold of a rear engine mount, I was looking last year for someone else and none available. I'll look again. If I went VT I think I'd go front for sure, perhaps rear engine and mk2 golf diesel gearbox mount by the looks of things on this forum. Though if I could get a rear engine oem style mount I'd probably do that instead to save some pennies. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
_Matt_ 32 Posted June 25 Looked good in the sunshine on the school run this morning. Obligatory corner spot away from everyone else of course... it is a pub car park hence the camper in the field. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
_Matt_ 32 Posted November 5 New clutch master and slave fitted + a proper Hunter alignment over the last few days. The car is rejuvenated and useable again: tracks spot on and the clutch issues I had with juddering have gone away. The pedal was also not returning and sometimes the clutch was not fully disengaging. The place I took it to was local, recommneded by a local fellow Corrado owner, I'm really happy with the outcome, they are engineers rather than fitters. The workshop had a mix of old and new 911s, TVR, Fiat X1, Triumph or some sort, GTV6 80s Alfa, Citreon ZM and a Vauxhall Senator. The clutch master I supplied was a LHD version as RHD is obsolete, he made it all work and even refitted it after bleeding it up as the pedal sat too high and engineered a solution to make it sit at the right height. I'm sure many fitters would have just left the pedal and inch too high or worse still refused to work on the car. I asked them to give the car an inspection as I've done quite a bit of work with the axle and it got a clean bill of health. There was a note that the subframe has had a weld repair due to seized bolt in the past, which I knew about and have a replacement already refurbished to go on. It would have made sense to do this time around due to the alignment but I still need to purchase uprated ARBs and Vibra Technic engine mounts... a purchase that will have to happen after Christmas now. 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dox 23 Posted November 9 On 11/5/2024 at 1:24 PM, _Matt_ said: New clutch master and slave fitted + a proper Hunter alignment over the last few days. The car is rejuvenated and useable again: tracks spot on and the clutch issues I had with juddering have gone away. The pedal was also not returning and sometimes the clutch was not fully disengaging. The place I took it to was local, recommneded by a local fellow Corrado owner, I'm really happy with the outcome, they are engineers rather than fitters. The workshop had a mix of old and new 911s, TVR, Fiat X1, Triumph or some sort, GTV6 80s Alfa, Citreon ZM and a Vauxhall Senator. The clutch master I supplied was a LHD version as RHD is obsolete, he made it all work and even refitted it after bleeding it up as the pedal sat too high and engineered a solution to make it sit at the right height. I'm sure many fitters would have just left the pedal and inch too high or worse still refused to work on the car. I asked them to give the car an inspection as I've done quite a bit of work with the axle and it got a clean bill of health. There was a note that the subframe has had a weld repair due to seized bolt in the past, which I knew about and have a replacement already refurbished to go on. It would have made sense to do this time around due to the alignment but I still need to purchase uprated ARBs and Vibra Technic engine mounts... a purchase that will have to happen after Christmas now. I have H and R ARBs I bought off Billcor on the forum 8 / 10 years ago, unused in my garage loft Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
_Matt_ 32 Posted November 9 I'll send you a message DoxSent from my SM-G990B2 using Tapatalk Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
