jekel

Had Kent Cams on a Firenza HPF many years ago, coupled with think twin Webber 48's from memory and full engine rebuild, went very, very well. Kent normally do them in 3 profiles from memory, 2 for road, one full race, it's just about the amount barely tickover etc., and without other engine mods. to back up could be counter productive. Easier in days you just got bigger carbs, manifold exhausts, maybe fruity pistons and overbore to match. Kent used to specialise in Ford engines, Vauxhall to lesser extent, just based on relative rarity of VR6 in UK Schimmel probs got more experience and testing, prtobs more driveability. The running in process is vital too from memory.

So yesterday I changed the plug leads, and at the same time I noticed a crack in my PCV valve. I have done a temp repair to it and either it was the leads or the repair but the car has ran perfect yesterday and all day today..........let's see what the weekend holds! That could well be it. I chucked that years ago and fitted an oil catch tank, after the replacement also leaked, followed by chucking cabon can and te valve actuator thing, just under the MAF, after fitting a BMC intake kit, I'd recommend doing same to anyo9ne.

Your symptons don't sound like coilpack at all. Run engine at night,imn dark, look for any blue flashes. New set of leads always a good idea, only ones worth having are VW/Bremi, Magnecor or Dubsport. Dubsport are the best, 10mm ones, ones to have, but difficult to fit, need to adapt a lead removal tool, and won't fit in holders, I've separate holders that do the job.

The manual means can move the washer, just, without using leverage against, i.e. prising against hub, like you say. I'd say a tiny bit tighter, tighten up whilst turning wheel opposite way, very gently, back off quarter to half a turn, then tighten by hand with the socket on it, i.e. turn the socket with fingers, not the nut with your fingers, but not using the wrench, just fingers. I've done quite a few before though, get a feeling for wehat's right. Recheck after 50 miles or so, see if loosened off any. Whole job is really easy, go for it. Don't try front bearings yourself, they are a nightmare.

Just recently got the Brisk Racing plugs and they're excellent, only thing better than standard NGK's, I'd just get them, there on Ebay, are were couple of months back, only one company does but been used for years in Europe by VR6 owners with good results. Think there Czech from memory.

I'd be taking it back then finding another garage, or do it yourself. Sounds like they've misfitted the pads, if the spring tong things aren't sitting right almost 100% the pads aren't sitting in the holders right, you won't force it back in, and should never be able to pop out is fitted correctly. Would account for noise and rest too. New rear bearings should be finger tight on nut, so sounds like they've screwed that up too. It is possible to misfit the pads, but you've got to be a ham fisted idiot, and should be obvious when putting together.

Kind offer but ARB and droplinks fine and pretty new, just renewing bushes, and then being pretty picky there, not much wrong wi old ones. I'm going to order the mk3 Golf VR6 ones, 21.5 mm bar, looks right, unless anybody knows different?

When think about it the anti roll bar drop links are OK when , or normal?

Europarts are listing a 17mm Anti Roll Bar, and got the bushes, after putting Reg in. It's much bigger, I'd say 21-22. The later Golf VR6 is listing a 21.5 mm one, some Passats and other stuff bigger again. Would I be right in thinking only a MK3 Golf would have fitted, if been uprated, so got to be that one. Looks VW doesn't look like aftermarket one. Most of suspension and lot of other stuff uprated before I got, so bigger roll bar would make sense.

Result!

Yes mine was the MAF, new Bosch now in

I'll tell you if swapping my MAF fixes and that would tend to back up it been your MAF wiring. Yes mine was the MAF, perfect now. Pins 3 and 4 think it was reading very low compared to Bosch ones, old and new Bosch reading the same. It did perform faultlessly for bout a year and was 35 quid or something in sale, get what you pay for suppose,new Bosch now in.

This must be infectious, mines started playing up for few seconds when start it whn warm, settles down after bout 5-10 secs, idle and hunting just like yours, feels like MAF probs. that cheap one I put in, but worked faultlessly for a year, I'll put the Bosch back in. Yours to me still sounds like MAF but given error codes you got there the wiring to MAF, or something the MAF's reading. I'd start looking from MAF plug backwards. I'll tell you if swapping my MAF fixes and that would tend to back up it been your MAF wiring.

Hello, still got the window scraper seal or somebody nabbed it? I'm local can pick up.

Did Chris sort you our, would prefer to keep mine as spare on second thoughts, as know it's bang on and might get hard to get, Chris has loads of them.

I'm running EV6 injectors in a slightly uprated VR6 but with 3 bar FPR instead of 4, injectors should give you a figure for 3 and 4, at 3 bar running slightly more than standard flow rate and feels better for it, and got potential for more engine upgrading if choose. Thought about running at a lower FPR rate? Also MPG is much better than old standard injectors but course EV6 injectors brand new, standard been cleaned recently but still old, could just be that.

Two 17 inch spanners together, ring one side, open end other, normally does the trick with them and can undo when car still on wheels so not straining anything too much. Admittedly mine didn't look like been on their too long and bolts heads in very good nick. Can get to nut with releasing fluid, inside axle beam from back if that helps.

I'm only in South Shields, pity never seen it, Chris obviously knows the car and thinks highly of it. Mines been pretty much totally mechanically rebuilt over past year or I'd have jumped at chance soon as saw ad. Good look with the 911, I'm also a fan, would love a classic 70's one but the prices have went ridiculous. My uncles got a RUF wouldn't like to think what it's worth these days.

I wasn't in the market but was still sorely tempted with this, was going to message to come for a look on weekend, looks like new owner bagged himself a good one, hope you don't regret selling

Is it the black roundish thing that sticks out front of servo, with electrical plug? I've just changed servo but that black thing was fine, without knowing exactly what it was know effects ABS as previously ABS light flashed on now and again, but since changed that worked perfect. Servo started leaking a bit but and changed for another which had the sensor in and is working fine. Give me a shout if Chris can't oblige for any reason, don't mind splitting servo and sensor as servo is leaking so was just going to sling that.

I've heard with an engine that's stood for that long pouring diesel straight into the bores through plug holes is the way to go, then turn over, without starting, can't remember if put the plugs back in, or leave out, think put back in, then take out and turn over again to clear, google it, never had need to try the theory. Might have seen it on Wheeler Dealers with an old BMS 2002 that had'nt been started in 30 years or something, Youtube it.

Can't hear anything on vid but what your describing sounds like inner cv joints, will clunk almost sound like jamming or ready to snap full lock when reversing especially, might get away with taking out and regreasing but probs better getting whole driveshafts new joints at both ends, then fairly easy swap. Should'nt be any movement in wheel, sounds like wheelbearings probs shot or at least worn and that's a garage job, with a big press and heat to change.

Normally crank position sensor means car won't start full stop, temp. immaterial. Got at least 1 spare 4 bar Bosch FPR, all perfect, bought a few while back new old stock, most used now but very lightly, give me a shout if need one, as new price for Bosch is ridiculous for what they are. After engine rebuild and various upgrades running 3 bar now anyway, switched to new EV6 injectors which have higher flow at 3 bar than standard at 4. Bought few as always sell like hot cakes on Ebay, really good upgrade for GTi owners, but thing that downloads photos onto ebay not working on new laptop, or not set up yet,4 bars rare only VR6 some turbo's and big engined Audi's use as standard. Probs. got old crank sensor too which was fine renewed all my sensors and ancillaries when upgraded engine.

Yeah I noticed that I'd steer well clear of this one...second thoughts I gonna make a derisory bid, err 5 grand, see what he thinks of that.

ISV and MAF are still favourites, only other thing I know of that will cause that hunting is the TPS, but normally pretty reliable. What you really need is mate with spare parts to try or VAGCOM. If it's a good car and your keeping it could just renew everything like I did, but had just put new engine and box in, brakes suspension etc. etc. so seemed stupid not to renew every sensor and ancillary. Most things will run disconnected, will take default readings from other stuff so try disconnecting MAF, ISV, TPS when running, if no change it's deffo kaput, but could be it's working but not 100%.