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Kevin Bacon

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Posts posted by Kevin Bacon

  4. Posted · Edited by Kevin Bacon

    Duraseal mate - http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/crimp-butt-splice-terminals/7820753/

     

    They do all sorts of sizes but I have red (small), blue (medium) and yellow (large) in my box of wiring bits and I haven't yet found a wire that wouldn't fit into one of them. Except the really big stuff like starter wire etc.

     

    You have to buy them in packs of 50 minimum unfortunately, which is no bad thing as I got through loads of them on my Corrado!

     

    Make sure you buy the Duraseal brand and you need a heat gun to shrink them down after crimping.

     

    Yeah RS's site is a navigation nightmare but they sell loads of useful stuff.

  7. Posted

    Yep, only the American OBD2.5 12Vs used that....and a plastic intake like the 24V's.

     

    Yep front end off to get the manifold bolts out, then rocker off, then side cover off. It's an arse of an engine I'm afraid.

     

    As I said in the other threads, you will need to modify the exhaust cam on your AUE to take that 12V cam trigger wheel, and then modify the side cover to take the sensor. It's potentially a lot of work.

  9. Posted

    Ooooo the SO range!

     

    i still remember how good the SO2's were when i used to run them on the valver years ago, they were awesome in the dry & you could barely tell the difference even when in the wet......& the SO3's were damn good too

     

    what wheel sizes have you seen the SO01's Kev? (they didnt come up as an option for 15"s)

     

    I haven't looked yet mate as my F1s are (sadly) still full of tread, but they would be for my 18s. I doubt you'll get them in 15s :(

     

    Corrado and one set of Audi rims have Michelin PilotSport3's. Very impressed with these.

    Other set of Audi wheels have Hankook S1 Evo's and again I found them very good in all conditions. I tend to go for tyres with at least B rating in the wet as that when I'll need them the most.

     

    I loved the PS3s on my R32. Probably because they were the original factory fit tyre. There's a lot to be said for that I think. It's the only thing that touches the road, so sidewall stiffness and rubber compound, tread pattern etc all have a bearing on feel and ride quality.

  11. Posted

    Yeah standalones have many outputs to control pretty much anything - intake flap solenoids, turbo valves, nitrous solenoids, EGR valves, you name it.

     

    Just looked at the Emerald K6 and it can't do DBW. That does make things simpler electrically and software wise, but it does mean more plumbing for an idle valve. It will run just fine like that, but it won't feel as punchy in the midrange as a standard R32, because the standard throttle mapping isn't linear. It sounds like you are pretty flexible and will be happy with it anyway, so that's cool.

     

    I installed everything as VW intended more for the challenge than anything else!

  14. Posted

    Yeah the sensor itself will work fine, it's just a 12V hall sender like the OBD2 one, but the signal it won't like. Maybe you'll need to cut off all but one of the teeth, then it should work fine. It needs to be the tooth that corresponds to the crank tooth gap though.

     

    A schrick VGI controller will control the flap no worries, or any rpm based solenoid controller. I switched mine at 4300ish.

  15. Posted

    That's the one I've got. It's getting a bit old rattley now, and the direction switch is failing. Considering it has 325lbft, it struggles with wheel bolts done up to 90lbft! It gets them off eventually but after undoing all 20 bolts, the battery is past it's best and needs charging again.

     

    I think it's most useful for top mounts as every one else said!

  16. Posted

    Are you saying I don't need the emerald jumper loom, That I can use just the existing Audi loom the one I have has been cut, conveniently:bonk:, where all the wires join to form the main trunk, which I assume then terminates into the original Audi ecu, correct? The actual web with all the various connectors, for coils, injectors etc is fine, just the main trunk.

    Are you saying trace the wires back from the various sensors, injectors etc, and then where they would then terminate into the audi ecu, instead terminate them into the relevant pins on the emerald ecu? In which case is it ok to keep all the sensors as per factory with the same factory plugs or do I also need to change these for emerald versions? Sorry if this is coming across as a tad slow, just want to make sure I've got it correct in my head.

     

    Still unsure with regards the standard Corrado looms, the three white fuse box terminated plugs, F, G1, G2, how can I keep these standard if they first travel through the factory ecu? (ok, think I may of just had a bit of a brain freeze. Do I terminate the corrado side into emerald plug then into ecu, then audi engine loom into emerald plug and then onto engine as per original loom, thus the two plugs in the emerald ecu) This wiring has been one step forward and two back, just when I think Im getting my head round it throws up something else and I realize how little I know, but I'm determined to get it sorted.

     

    Hi mate, the standard R32 ECU has 2 plugs. One is the 'engine' loom and the other is the 'car' loom. The engine loom is basically all the injectors, coils, crank & cam sensors, throttle body, flap etc etc. The car loom is MAF, lambdas, throttle pedal, power supply etc etc.

     

    If you're saying the 'car' loom has been cut, that's no biggie as you don't need the majority of it anyway.

     

    If the engine loom is complete, then it's simply a case of following the wires to each sensor, labelling them, then swapping ECU plugs. The Emerald wiring diagram will state which pin does what and you simply terminate the OEM wires to the relevant Emerald pins.

     

    Once that's done, you need to make up a loom for the DBW pedal and power supply, which is only about 6 wires.

     

    As for the Corrado wires, I just used the ECU and fuel pump relays that were already there. I just jacked into the relay signal wires and wired them to the ECU. All you are doing is replacing the original Corrado ECU with a different one, there is no need to replace or cut out any Corrado wiring at all. I think that is where some people go wrong. They get it into their heads that the Corrado loom becomes redundant.

     

    That's what I thought about the quick start but when I ooked at the quick start sensor it looked different with 2bumps on the end of the sensor I think cant find the pic I saw

    I got a new cam sensor for a 2000 4motion and it looked the same as the 12v one besides the size difference

    Swapped them over yesterday reset ecu and it seems lot better starts a fraction quicker

    It Has massively improved throttle response

    When I find someone close with vag com will be able to confirm

    At the moment its furking awesome between 2500-4000

    It's now pulling in 5th like it used to in 4th

     

    This

    CF153158-91E8-46DA-B64E-1FB09B27DB68.png

     

    Also where is the easiest place to get an rpm signal from? In the cabin besides behind the clocks?

    Need to wire in a vafc2 to control manifold

     

    Strange, the 12V ECU shouldn't understand the signal from that at all, but if it's feeling better at 2500-4000, good stuff.

     

    Rpm signal is the thin green/black wire in the Motronic loom. It normally picks it up from the crank sensor. If it's not working, you may need a converter box which jacks into the coil pack wire for cyl 1.

  17. Posted · Edited by Kevin Bacon

    it will be good to see when the cam sensor is working as it should.

    It is bit rich on WOT

     

    I need a little help with some info on the cam sensor and the magnet thing on the end of the cam compared to the 12v cam to compare

    If anyone understands what I mean

    Also when does the torque drop off normally on the 24v

     

    Yeah I know what you mean.

     

    The AUE engine has 4 'teeth' on the cam trigger wheel, which is known as 'quick start'. It means the engine start on any cylinder. The 12V needs to sync to TDC on cyl 1 before it can fire, which is a bit inefficient. All part of EU emissions bollards.

     

    Anyway, said trigger is the left one. The 12V ECU won't understand the signal from it. It's more used to a single tooth as seen on the right sprocket. Maybe you can modify the right sprocket to take a 12V magnet disc under the bolt? You will also need to machine a hole into the 24V side casing and space it correctly. About 1mm should do it.

     

    The torque starts winding off at 4500rpm ish IIRC.

     

     

    Img_0044_zpsa0a2ad80.jpg

     

     

    1. Does anyone have a guide or a link to somewhere that shows a complete wiring layout for the corrado. I have been following the 'central electric 2' guide whilst cross referencing with rubjonnys guide on club gti. Now I have found no issue tracing wires from the colored connectors and have managed to tag and label 70% but my lack of knowledge really come into play with the sheer amount of interconnecting wires and the vast array of single or double connectors, where can I find the info as to where these join or are terminated. I'm aware this probably sounds rather stupid to many of you, but for example the loom that runs to the electric window relay behind the rear door card, the live is ok, but there are 7 other connectors and I can't find the info that tells me where these are connected.obviously finishing with the door looms, but am I missing intermediate looms, I'm sure if I had this info I could figure it out, so please, my ears are open, enlighten me, lol! Further more, if anyone is reading this thinking, you wally that is a piece of **** I could do that in a day, please, come down I have a nice garage a brilliant kettle and financial incentives if anyone fancies a challenge;-)

     

    Buy yourself a power probe! Invaluable bit of kit for this sort of thing. I'm not sure a complete Corrado wiring diagram exists anywhere other than the official ELSA books / PDFs, but KipVR on here might know. He did all the wiring himself.

     

    2) This is the one I'm really concerned with. I am going to be running the engine(a 2007 audi TT BUB) on emerald k6 management, I have found a guy called Richard from london who is going to be producing the fly loom, but from what hes explained to me this will involve splicing the emerald fly loom into the original audi engine loom and will only run teh engine itself, all I will have to do my end is splice in an ignition live, earth and rpm tacho feed. However all the remaining engine ancillaries will run from the original fuse to engine loom. This is where I begin to crap myself a bit. I have the loom in front of me and he made it sound so easy, just remove everything that the emerald system will use and leave the rest. However from looking at it, it appears that everything from the 3 clear fuse box connectors runs to the ecu plug then back out into the large circle connector to the old vr6 engine loom. Has anyone got experience of running a 24v on standalone and if so what did they do with regard to this, any info or links would be hugely helpful.

     

    Yep, I do. I ran my Audi 3.2 engine with a DTA S80 and one of their DBW boxes. I think the K6 has DBW built in, which is dead handy.

     

    I would not waste your time and money on a custom loom. You will not get better quality than the original loom and you know it's reliable because it worked in the donor car for years. All you need to do is cut off the VAG plugs and connect the wires to the Emerald plugs. Then it's just simply a case of finding a suitable switched live and earth and the rest of the wiring is all Corrado, which I would not rip out personally, again, because it's worked for years. Don't fix what isn't broken ;)

     

    To figure out what wire went where, I just had the DTA ECU pin wiring diagram in front of me and I end-to-end tested the stock loom to figure out the wires. It's pretty easy, you just follow the colours back to the plug, cut em off, stick the Emerald pins on them and slot them into the Emerald's plug housing.

     

    I ran mine with full intake VVT (exhaust not worth it), stock coils, DBW, intake flap, the lot and it ran really well. None of the annoying ARMD torque management maps that VAG use. Just pulled hard everywhere with zero flat spots.

     

    Good luck! It's not hard, just take your time and be methodical and you'll be fine.

     

    Img_0065-2.jpg

     

    Img_0007-2.jpg

     

    wiring.jpg

     

    This is the end result. Standalone bolted into the OEM location (using 12V ECU cradle) and OEM 3.2 loom terminated with standalone plugs. It doesn't get any simpler or neater than that ;)

     

    Img_0012_zps6965fa79.jpg

    • Like 1

  20. Posted

    I started reading it last Saturday Kev and was thinking "You know what - it doesn't look too difficult, I reckon I could do this" By about page four I think it was I soon realised how quickly I'd be out of my depth and would be better off just paying Vince :lol:

     

    Yeah I would mate :D Things can get real expensive, real fast. I wish I had the opportunity of a fixed and very reasonable drive-in, drive-out price at the time!

  21. Posted

    My gut feeling tells me there's no way that Merc has the claimed 840BHP. Even if it had traction issues getting off the line I just don't think it'd have been scalped so badly by the Golf!

     

    You'd be surprised. Not that weight has a huge bearing on cars that powerful - 1500 kg vs 1800 odd kg - but 4WD certainly does. And don't forget it's a HGP conversion, and DSG, so all the VW nanny state stuff will have been bypassed. You can just tell by the way it rips off the line. The Merc's electronics can't cope with that much grunt and I'd be surprised if the ECU gave the driver any more than 15% throttle just after he nailed it!!

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