Kevin Bacon

Wicked. I see they still do the RE050A. Great tyre that. I'll defo be going back to those, or maybe the S001 as that looks good too.

Can't do you a VR6 beam, but I can do you a ......

Mental!

Still beat the Gallardo after giving it a head start.

The 800hp AMG Merc is a good example of why too much torque and nanny state electronics = shyte progress. The Golf scalped it, and that wasn't weight related!

Eagle F1s = Hate them. Had them ever since the GSD1 with the arrow head pattern, the improved GSD3 and now F1 Assysmetric 2, twice. Once on MK4 R32 and now on the MK5 Edition 30. Nasty nasty shat old tyres.

Why? Dunno really, they just are :D

Nah, it's something about them once they approach half worn. They either just go off (stiffen up) or just get a bit rubbish. Nothing like the consistency you get from new to bald that you get with Bridgestones. I've never before experienced a tyre that was great for the first few weeks, and then just deteriorate really quickly. The ride suffers, the steering becomes vague and the tramlining gets worse.

It's been exactly that way with every Eagle F1 I've tried.

Incidentally, I don't keep buying them, sometimes the car comes with them already fitted :D

With VW's massive financial clout, I'm sure they're capable of producing a winning car, but because of internal politics, Audi would want all the credit for it.

Is it not because you need to resync the full closure? Corrados have that anyway, regardless of any alarm fitted (I think?).

The reset procedure is:-

1) Close the roof either by hand or with the motor.

2) Drop the motor but leave it connected

3) Get out of the car, close the door and then lock the door with the key. Do a lock and hold as if doing a full closure.

4) If the motor was out of sync, you'll see the pinion gear turn a few times and then stop.

5) Refit motor and all should be well.

If the motor just twitches and the pinion doesn't move. It's already synced and the problem lies elsewhere.

Don't VAG gearboxes have a magnet attached to the inside the gearbox casing to trap swarf? I've personally never seen a VAG with a magnetic drain plug.

It could, but new engines produce huge amounts of swarf and customers / dealer technicians would brick themselves! Tensioner bits are plastic though? :D

I'm not saying don't use a magnetic drain plug, I just think ignorance is bliss sometimes :) I always see bits of metal in the bottom of my drain pan, even on good engines, so it doesn't bother me really.

I thought this was about the real Kevin Bacon buying a turbo :lol: I'm flattered it was about my Corrado exploits though!

I put a scary amount of time and money into that car! I learned a lot about engines & cars in general during the process though, which was an unexpected bonus. And loads of memories about humiliating cars costing 3, 5, & 10 times as much, so it was all worth it!

In the end, I had to move it on for sentimental reasons and also I felt I'd done everything I wanted to do to it.

I'd like to know which parts of a healthy engine drop visible bits of ferrous metal into the oil?? seems like these things are a waste of money to me, only use is in gearboxes and transfer boxes with no filtering of the oil.

+1. It's a gimmick.

Why don't VW use these as standard? For 2 reasons - 1) Customer paranoia and 2) swarf is collected by the oil pump and trapped by the oil filter before it reaches sensitive areas, like bearing surfaces and tiny oil ways.

My spidey sense is tingling :)

 

Though to be fair, subject to a spin in GlosterOx's car, the B12 kit is what I'd be most likely looking to fit to my own car.

That is the one kit I wish I'd tried on mine and I'm pretty sure it would have ticked all the boxes!

I've got KW V1's and couldn't recommend them more, I disagree with Kev's comments about spending more. If you are wanting to spend hours messing with the dampening settings etc then yea, you need to spend more but if you are like me and you want to bolt them on and have the freedom to set the ride height yourself then I'd massively advise them with the inox coating.

 

My friend religiously buys the cheap and nasty £150 german ebay specials for his car and everytime he wants to change the ride height its coilovers off, blow torch and hammer to change them. I didn't touch mine for about 2 years and all I did was slacken off the grub screw on the adjuster and hand wind them off, I was massively impressed!

 

I tend to run mine pretty low and the ride is perfect, I don't like to drive around feeling every bump but at the same time I like to feel the road not drive on a cloud and get seasick like standard ride height.

I'm glad you like the V1s but personally I found them to be sh1te. Crashy, bouncy and under damped. This was in a member's 24V Rado, otherwise standard.

On the V1, they just use generic settings for the whole Corrado range, and it shows. I'm glad I tried those AFTER buying my V3s otherwise I would never have gone with KW in the first place.

Likewise, I disagree with your comments. People who are happy with what they've got tend to tout on the forums that anything more expensive is just a waste of money and time, without even trying the better stuff!. I hate to break it to you, but you really do get what you pay for with suspension. And your mate using blow torches, really? Who the feck can be arsed with that? What a total waste of time and money, not to mention constantly jacking the car up, weakening the floor each time.

What idle speed are you getting?

If the car is idling perfectly with the ISV disconnected, have a look to see if a previous owner has tampered with the throttle body to hold it open more than standard. If the yellow tamper proof paint on the throttle stop screw has been disturbed, it's a good sign.

By default, the throttle blade is fully closed at idle and with no ISV, the engine struggles to hold a good idle speed when it's really hot. As mentioned, the valve is never fully shut and it may be holding 680rpm from just the gap (or with the throttle cracked off it's stop slightly) because of the relatively cold & dense air, but there will come a time when it will just simply stall if it's not connected. For example, when sat in traffic for ages the engine will need an air flow boost from the ISV to maintain the idle.

People on other forums say AP are KW's budget end (as well as Weitec), but that doesn't really mean anything. Not when you consider KW V1 dampers are actually made by a company who make dampers for caravans.

At the risk of stirring up Jim's "suspension snobbery" feeling again, I would personally steer clear of any coilovers that aren't made by a well established and trusted brand, such as Bilstein for example, and certainly ones less than £400. If you're going to do it, do it once. This forum is littered with posts about people taking shortcuts with suspension, and regretting it.

KWs are OK, but you need to dig deeper into your wallet for the kits that actually bring anything worthwhile to a Corrado. The Inox line is worth it alone for the stainless steel construction. The first truly corrosion resistant coilovers to hit the market.

£500 isn't far off a B12 kit and you can't go wrong with Bilstein's experience and the springs aren't silly low.

I also agree with David. Standard is great too, but most people don't like the ride height.

And steer clear of 17" wheels, unless they are very light and have a soft tyre like the ContiSport. 17s more than anything completely ruins a Corrado.

Is yours an AUE?

MK5 has same VVT adjustment as MK4 (52 deg advance on the inlet and 22 deg on the exhaust) but the cam sensors are different and so is the mapping. On the MK4 the exhaust VVT is either fully on or fully off during warm-up, but on the MK5, it's more variable. MK5 seems to have a much more aggressive inlet map too.

As for fitting a 3.2 head onto your AUE, there are head bolt differences. 10mm on the 3.2 and 11 or 12mm for the 2.8, I can't remember. The 3.2 has massively better combustion chambers, bigger valves etc etc. You will need fixed VVT sprockets seeing as your ECU can't control the normal ones. Jon at Stealth can get a set of those. They're like vernier pulleys from the good old days and can be fixed half way for 26 deg advance, or 3/4, up to you really.

You will also need the 3.2 intake and then the coils because there's no room to run HT leads on that intake. That will mean some modification to the ignition side on the OBD2 loom / ECU, although not sure that will work. It worked on my DTA S80 though.

It's all doable though.

Lol, you won't get any fault codes from the OBD2 ECU because it doesn't know it's not hooked up to a 12V.

Happy that it works-ish for you, but it ain't how a 24V is supposed to be and won't be running anywhere near as optimally.

Nah, keep it going! Let the banter and inevitable 'Rocket scientist' nerd jokes / references commence :lol:

It is true though, people of a certain profession always do live up to their stereotypes!

I'm shocked and appalled it's taken them this long to get a bunch of metal poles and a box onto Mars, though. What the hell have they been doing for all these years?!? Only kidding!

The SuperSprint one is the only one worth bothering with, but it's mega cash and LHD only.

Wow, didn't realise the car was that clean. God knows why it took so long to sell in that condition. As Jim says, people are too picky and want the world for a tenner these days.

But a lot stronger than a Metro :lol:

The most annoying thing now, especially that I'm running a bit lower is that I get dazzled in my mirrors by most big cars/vans on the road, and with these LED lights it is even worse! By the way, love your new motor!

Yeah that used to annoy me too and mine wasn't lowered very much at all!

Cheers dude. It's nearly as bonkers as a VRT :D

So the spark is there to the non-firing cylinders (3 of them?!?). Are the 3 that are down all on the same bank, e.g. front or rear bank?

Firing order is:- 1, 5, 3, 6, 2, 4

Cylinder layout is:-

1_3_5

_2_4_6

Double check the coilpack, the cylinder numbers are embossed next to each post.

If not that, check your wiring because you've been in there and changed all the pins in the large multi-plug.

If the heater dials are repeatedly breaking, you need to replace the Bowden cables, and in particular, the bottom one that controls the feet / windscreen / face vents.

I'll be very interested into finding out how a RWD corrado handles, since owning a bmw RWD just seems to make much more sense these days!

Should be quite interesting, judging by the way high powered 1 series BMs are always throwing the Stig and Clarkson off the TG test track :D

I love the engineering threads! Will follow this one with great interest!

I agree with Chris on this Jim. Yours is better than your giving it credit for.

No it isn't, I saw it and worked on it before Jim owned it :lol:

Nah, it's fine really. One of the better ones I've driven.

About £360/month! :|

The GTI is more than the R? That doesn't sound right!

Not selling the Corrado. Just putting it away for a while. But it all feels different this time - I'm not giving it up because I can't afford to run it (as has always been the problem in the past) but just "done" with it. The engine rebuild, then the alternator issues, then the heater matrix going just left me feeling extremely jaded - and knowing that there's still a tonne of body work and shagged suspension still to tackle just makes me want to throw in the towel. For now. I'd just like a car I can buy and run for two years and live a life I don't have to fit around an old car, which is sort of what it's like at the moment.

Bin it then dude. There's no point agonising over keeping it or not if you're heart's not into it anymore, which it clearly isn't.

2 years isn't a big chunk of your life to waste, so why not, rent a car for a couple of years and see how that works out. I think Golf 7 Rs can still be had on cheap schemes, but the smart money would be to wait for all the orange faced TOWIEs to hand their keys back in 2 years, and take your pick from a flooded market. Just have to watch for the inevitable neglect as people can be right arse holes with property that doesn't belong to them.

Anyway, just do it Jim. Life's too short for umming and arring. If your roads are reasonable, then an ST will be a riot. If your roads are busted up B roads, you may regret it, but above all that, fcuk Ford anyway for not letting you test one. It's bloody obvious you're not a low life chav road captain just after a quick thrill. Fcuk em. Try a car supermarket instead.