VEEDUBBED

Sorry if i'm misleading you simon,the 10mm nuts fasten a small metal bracket that's located under the cubby hole infront of the gearstick,poke your bonce down in the passenger footwell along with a torch and you'll see the bracket,it's also opposite the small OBD diagnostic plugs. 1 last thing,if you re-use the O/E horrible Vw hose clamps when re-fitting the matrix,break off the small lug on the green clamps,the clamps/clips have a small metal protrusion that limits the travel the clip compresses to,i found that by removing this protrusion the clips opened up further and were easier to install in absence of the special pliers used by Vw for that type of clamp,you'll be able to get the sods on just using long nose pliers. If you decide to eliminate the clips and use worm drive jobbies be carefull when tightening the clamps,the force of the worm drive clamp(if over tightened) can fracture the internal heater's inlet/outlet plastic stubs,leaving you stranded by the roadside,and having to do the whole bloody job again. How do i know?...

I've got the Bently bible and to be honest i say it's quite crap,my opinion of coarse.. Did you disconnect the two heater hoses?,did you also disconnect the metal bracket under the center consol/ashtray?(10mm self locking nuts). That's all i can remember,does your corrado have A/C?.

Hi simon,does your car have A/C or not?,if it's equipped with A/C your in for a fun weekend because it's a dash out job(i've done it 3 times now...)The nuts holding the unit to the bulkhead are within the engine bay,two are quite easy to spot,almost inline/opposite the timing belt plastic cover while the third is low down near/in front of the exhaust downpipe,the hardest part is getting the two hose clips off the internal radiator's hoses within the engine bay,under the ign.coil.The nuts have large washers and rubber backing washers that fall off the nuts if they are loose. HTH.

How many do you need mate?,i've got a spare head with most studs fitted. By the way,inorder to avoid the studs from pulling out,which they do even if 1 uses a torque wrench,is to put a tiny dot of Loctite stud fit on the threads when re-fitting the sods.

You can also get the rings in with the aid of small watch repairers screwdrivers,along with the ring compressor.

Exellent idea!,go ahead and try it!,then you can sell me your non-sunroof headlining... :D

Your quite right mate,i was woolgathering not thinking about the cable guide and plastic wheels...working through 35degree heat is doing my 'effin head in.

Some wires within the mess of wires behind the fuse box were'nt connected up to anything,many were spare,have you checked all the multiplugs that are located near the bonnet handle(i'm talking LHD here but your Brit.version should be the same)?,broken wires inside the rubber piece that protects the wires?(15 years of flexing opening of the doors etc),do you have current present at the motors?,at the switchs?,have you tried wapping switches over?. Are the relays present?,working?,also while your down there check that the fuse box still has its white plastic retaining fork/clip things as they are bastids to put back again properly which results in the fuse box tilting downwards and sometimes ejecting a few relays or loosening the sods.

Cable?,i'm not aware of any cable fitted to the corrado's e.window,it's a sissortype arrangement,Audis have the type with a cable running around plastic wheels,i changed the roller once on an ancient Audi quattro and i'd advise you not to do it mate,absolute nightmare to put the cable back on its track.

Those badges are off the Recaros originally fitted to the ford sierra cosworths and possibly series 1/2 escort rs turbos,i bought a set a few days ago off eBay.uk so if you can wait a couple of days i'll measure them and let you know.

Err,what engine have you got?,8v,16v? you'll also have to loosen the camshft retaining cap inorder to do a proper job,which also means that you'll have to remove the camshaft top cover.Once you removed the cam cover i find the simplest way of loosening the camshaft retaining bolt is to get a stout metal bar and wrap the bar in a rag,jam the bar into the crankshaft pulley's hole and rest the other half on the top of the cyl. head then loosen the bolt with a decent socket and ratchet. Be carefull when re-tightening the bolt as sometimes when overtightened the small cast half moon on the cam sprocket can snap,without you noticeing it...,the torque figure you mentioned seems a little high for that bolt(16v bolt is 60lb/f),i don't remember the 8v bolt's figure off hand but i rekon it's less than 80lb/f.

Right,first you won't need new sump bolts when fitting the diesel model's windage tray with rubber gasket incorporated,i fitted the same article to my 9A valver mill without any problems.The only thing that's now not needed is the brittle plastic oil pump baffle that was hopeless anyway,i coated both sides of the rubber gasket with copper ease grease so that next time i drop the sump the gasket wont stick and possibly rip,meaning another gasket to buy...Be carefull when replacing the camshaft sprocket because it's easy to put the damm thing on back to front,resulting in the cam belt being a few mm's off the edge,a lot of head scratching on that 1. The camshafts timed as you described sound ok,remember that there's also a scribed line on the (new?) camshaft sprocket that aligns to the edge of the cyl.head,i'd strongly advise you to atleast check the hyd.tappets if you have'nt done so already,they would have been damaged aswell. Watch out when you replace the small half moon rubber bung things on the end of the camshafts as they are easliy dislodged and coat the camshaft cover gaskets with a smear of vaseline so next time you remove the cover you won't have to change them again,they cost 70+euro from the stealer..EACH :shock: HTH,cheers.

Slow down mate,now your getting me confused,what kind of job are you planning on doing?, are you going to remove and totally strip the engine?,is the block still in the car's engine bay minus head/sump?. I don't know about the 2.0 crankshaft setup but if you stick to an 81mm bore you've got a few good choices of piston available such as the Audi S3 pistons,Audi S2 etc the problem is the gungeon pin,20mm on the S3 pistons but PG 1800cc pistons have a 22mm pin.The only piston that springs to mind with an 82.5mm bore is the O/E Mahle pistons fitted to the 5cyl fiat coupe T.20v engine.I'm not sure about the pin diameter or the oil spray jets though. The problem is that,there aren't any ready made turbo pistons available from Vw in that dia. The valve cut-outs on the 2.0 9A pistons are simple cut-out half moon shapes milled into the top of the piston crown,the cut-outs don't go near the edge of the crown,unlike the KR versions. I wonder if the Diesel versions(81mm) would be ok for FI,i mean,they can take a 23.1 CR without any problems all day long,kinda like boosting a petrol engine with 2.5Bar turbo pressure,shiyt now i'm probably going to open an engine for the 300th time and try them in an old G60 PG block...

Don't think about milling off 6mm from the G60 PG pistons,you'll be moving the top ring up to close to the piston crown which is undesirable in a FI mill. I milled 2mm off the tops of the 9A's piston crowns and have had no issues even when over boosting to 1.6Bar turbo pressure,no blow-by problems apart from the normal amount and it didn't cost much either,forged jobbies cost alot and require an engine block strip to prepare the bores,not exactly an afternoon walk in the park... If you have to use standard Vw pistons the 9A valver's jobbies are quite good,much better than the oil KR 1800cc pistons with that shiyte valve cut out that was too long and too deep so unburnt fuel gets trapped and detonates the edge(even when running NA that's the first place they get eaten away). If you want those pistons and rings make an offer and we can go from there. Cheers.

All 2.0 9A engines have 82.5mm bores. Before getting my last low milage 9A valver mill i was also thinking about putting bigger pistons into the PG 1800 engine block,i was going to use 84mm Fiat coupe turbo16.v Mahle jobbies that i picked up for 60euro used. The oil squirter cut-outs match as does the piston pin diam.(22mm),you could then use the 9A's steel head gasket on the PG block,just knock down 1 locating pin on the back of the cyl.block. Which reminds me,i've got 4 pistons and a box of brand new Goetez piston rings for sale...

Potato,try first just changing the hyd.tappets on the damaged cyl.'s,a few years back i was changing the timing belt on my 16v.T engine and i dropped a bolt into the running timing gear,ok the engine was idling but it made a horrendous racket because the belt jumped a few teeth... I removed the head to find that all the inlet valves had just kissed the piston crown edges(16 KR head on PG G60 block+pistons),the valves were perfect,only the hyd. tappets were smashed causing the engine to run on 2/3 cyl.'s First check by pushing down on the tappet's top,if you can push the head of the tappet down a few mm's i reckon the tappets could have taken some of the punishment.

Another way of getting the rotor arm off is by removing the whole dist. unit and crushing the old rotor,no spliters,bent shafts etc.

Right guys,i need some urgent advice as i might be bidding on two Recaro subframes to replace the shi tt y 1's that came with my new seats. Will the subframes out of a Vw sirocco car fit our corrado's frames??,the subframes are also electric if that makes a difference. Any advice will be gratefully recieved peeps,quick as you like though 'coz the auction is running out soon,THANKZ :lol:

Hi mate,would the diagram possibly be in the Haynes car manual??,i'll check for you and if there's any relative info. i'll post it up. Cheers,Andrew.

I still don't understand how the hell these crankbolts snap??,i've rebuilt loads of engines and never had this problem on any engine,G60 PG's,valvers even normal 8v engines and i don't think i've ever bought a new crank bolt,simply because of the hassle with the stealer. Surely something's not correctly tightened/torqued down,dirty threads,muck inside the crank nose hole kinda hydrolocking the bolt whilst it's being torqued down,old thread lock binding the (used) crank bolt??.

Carefull guys,fitting the Iveco intercooler is NOT as simple as it looks...,i had to trim down the left hand headlight and put a metal tab on the headlamp's plastic bit that attaches to the slam panel,the fit is also very tight when fitting into the G60 because of it's bigger rad,valvers aren't a problem,also,if you have A/C it won't fit in between the car's cooling rad. and the A/C rad. There are also different types of intercooler for that truck,the best is the all all aluminium version(turbo daily 35),the lesser version(mine..) also differs in the in/outlet department,1 inlet is small while the outlet is larger from the denser air being produced. Remeber also that there's no easy way to fix the thing once installed as the plastic radiator fixings located on the back of the G60's A/C radiator have to be hacksawed off owing to clearance problems,the larger outlet also fouls the bonnet realease mech. when you connect the boost hoses back in. Try it if you must but personally i'd just buy an eBay jobbie that look quite good(eBay.de) and are quite cheap considering that they are made from aluminium. Shame when i got my intercooler years back eBay did'nt exist...

That's right mate,both notches of 'v's point up to midday,if the charger was out,even by just 1 tooth,you'd have felt it while tuning the shaft,it still turns but feels kinda notchy,like it's binding or catching somewere inside the charger.

Lancia delta integrale evo1 ecu,you can also use many more such as Lancia delta 4wd,hf turbo. Depends on what boost you'll be running.

Fiat/Lancia FPR.

Weber knock sensor bolted in place of the O/E 9A's version,even the bolt's the same!