VEEDUBBED

It aint on the head mate,the 2 switches are located on the oil filter housing next to each other. 1's got a yellow wire whilst the other has a blue and black wire.

When i fitted my hybrid Vr6 gearbox with a new Peloquin LSD the hardest part was getting the crownwheel off the old diff.I don't have a hyd. press so i heated the ring gear with a blowtorch and used a mallet and bashed the bastid out. I didn't even have to mess around with pre-load shims as i used the existing shims,1000KM done and no funny noises. Getting the new ring gear on is easier because the (new) diff. bolts pull the gear onto the diff. You could use VEEDUBBED'S patented method of pre-load checking,install the diff. back into the gearbox casings and with the oil drain plug removed turn the crownwheel using a screwdriver in it's normal direction of rotation,the pre-load is accetable if you feel some resistence when turning/pushing the crownwheel's teeth. It must not be locked up or slop around,i make it sound easy but if in doubt let someone with experience tackle the job...and pay the bugger lotz for the privelege :D

I've wrapped two 3inch turbo downpipes with that wrap and all i can say is it's garbage,the stuff lasts a couple of months then turns to dust. Sparky's right,if you use the wrap do wear laytex gloves as the itching will drive you apeshit,wear a dust mask aswell. The 'Grafite impregnated' wrap is also bollox,it looses it's colour not long after you install it and smokes badly. I bought the latest 'copper impregnated' affair but i'm not gonna fit it,30 squids wasted. The downpipe also started rusting soon after installing even AFTER i'd applied two coats of high temp. paint as a protective primer :mad2: Maybe the protective spray the company suggests to use would prolong the life of the wrap,who knows?,all i know is that the bloody stuff can't be posted abroad... Remember to use a water spray bottle to wet the wrap whilst installing as it helps dampen down the dust.

PART NUMBER PLEEZE :mad2:

Thanks rob,i didn't check the thread... :D

Exact expansion bottle PN pleeze :D

Yep,this must be the 10th 'raddo i've dismantled over the years A mate of mine called me on thursday and said that they have got in as scrap a '92 9A valver,i go look and decide to get a few bits.I got 2 front wings in good nick,just a small ding on 1 corner,2 mirror glasses,the whole front screen,all the plastic surround under the wiper blades(all undamaged),2 door handles(both work and 1 has a key),2 headlamps that are undamaged,front fogs/indicators(perfect),interior bits and a couple of engine bits,idle valve etc. I dismantled the car using my tools and i started at 9.00am and finished at 12.00 noon. All for 200Euro,good price or robbed??. Comments pleeze.

Or do it yourself like i did,no special tools exept a special valve seal remover i bought years ago at a tool fair.You'll have to make up a punch,i made one out of an old turbo wastegate actuator arm ground down so it fit inside the guide. 1 very important thing to remember is BEFORE removing any guides,measure the guide's height from inside the cyl. head first,use a Vernier caliper and see how much the guide's sholder potrudes,mine were 11mm. Once i didn't do this and then wondered why my newly re-built 16v head smoked worse than when i blew the turbo,the hyd. tappets hammerd the new stem seals to death because the guides were fitted too high in the head... I changed all 16 guides without heating anything,i didn't even bother to lubricate the guides with oil,i just sat the head on a flat block of wood and hammered the fookers untill they were spat out the combustion chamber side. No problems at all :D

Alright mate :D No i didn't do as you suggested,which i will do. Could you send me that link again?. Thanks.

Right peeps, Who knows what type of rpm signal leaves the G60 ecu analogue or digital?. I'm still trying to get a clean signal on the rev-counter as the needle jumps about alot. Dirtytorque suggested using a 10.ohm resistor which i've tried but without any luck. My car's running a dry coil more or less like the VR6 coil+ign. amp. Cheers :D

Yeah,you'll definatly run into problems if you do as me and modify the original (single) pump cradle. I avoid running on a low tank and also have a mechanical fuel press. gauge fitted above the heated rear window switch,if i'm running low on fuel the fuel gauge drops to zero,especially on a hill and the engine starts to cough and stutter,my corrado was originally a G60 with a single in-tank pump so i could'nt be bothered to fit it externally. Just remember to fill up and drive with at least 1/4 of a tank of fuel.

I've got 1 installed on my car inside a modified G60 pump cradle,i can barely hear it.

Bloody corrados ah?, Ok,Are the ecu connectors ok?,sometimes the small 'feet' inside the ecu's connector can bugger around and they are nightmares to solve,check that they look ok and none are splayed out. Wiring ok?,15+ years of cold/hot can make the haness brittle and crack,favorite culprit being the injector harness that shorts out. Check the dist. connection while your in there,same thing as the ecu connector.bad/false contacts. Fuel filter ok?,are you checking the fuel press. using a mechanical gauge?. I could send you over a spare ecu but it's the bloody postage that stings!. Strange misleading thing is when you mentioned that the car just cut out going around a round about,if it was fuel i would have thought that the car would at least cough and fart around first before suddenly cutting out. Check the earth leads attatched to the cyl. head aswell. Let me know. :D

Allrite Darren, Glad to see that the G-charger is going strong!,i never sell duff rubbish,it ain't worth it and it's against my rules :D . Right,i'd first change the Digifant relay as suggested above.Next would be the hall sensor inside the dist.,if you get a replacement it doesn't have to be off a G60 mill,they are all the same parts.,coil connections ok?,they do work loose causing a simileur problem. Also dont overlook the ignition switch,after 15+years they sometimes go. I don't think i've ever come across a faulty G60 ecu,only once i blew 1 by using low resistence injectors... Try these things first then report back mate. Cheers,Andrew.

Hello, Right,make sure that the two small cogged pulleys have the small cut-outs pointing straight up to midday. If the gears are out of sync the charger's shafts will bind and turn with difficulty. Best bet is eBay for the parts or somewere like Bartek,BBM,Orz motorsport etc. Get the latest version(12mm wide) of the small cogged belt from G-werks and also ask if he (Darren) has a kit he could sell you,very helpfull person who knows G-laders well.

Right chaps, For the 300th time another coolant hose burst last week while i was driving on a main road,the strange thing is that now the water temp. gauge and the digital oil temp. readout both shoot up to 115+ degrees :confused4: ... I fitted ages ago a low temp. fan switch and lower rated thermostat so i don't think there's a problem there. Sound familier??,anyone else had this annoying problem? Cheers :)

Allrite chaps, I'd like to know if it's possible to fit a set of Audi RS6 multi spoke alloys(or could also be Audi 3.2 TT rims,i can't tell) onto a mk3 chassis golf?. The tyres are 225/40/18. Will they bolt on?,bolt pattern ok?,rubbing issues?. I'm trying to find out some info. for a mate on Passionford. Thanks :D

Bloody exellent upgrade,i was even using 1 to fuel my first 2.0 16v-g60 engine.

Sniffer pipe for the MOT station to sniff the CO content,you could block it off with a bolt no problem.

I burnt out an ecu on my G60 corrado a few years back and i couldn't find a matching ecu.I found 1 off another g60 'raddo with different numbers and a different coloured sticker,went fine exept for the horrid digi-lag.

What kind of camshafts are available for our turboed 16valave mills???.

...which brings up the question,why didn't you check the fuel pressure???? prefrebly using a mech. pressure gauge. Hope you've sorted it.

Oh i forgot, I used an SNS stg.5 chip,Garret T3/4 .48 .60 turbo on 1 of my old 8valve motors and the chip worked a treat,especially as it got rid of the horrid digi-lag,lethal for a turbo mill. In comparison ibought a chip off eBay from Germany already mapped for a turbo 8v mill and it was shiyte.

A bit of confusion here peeps, The green Bosch g60 has injectors have 4 holes,i.e split pattern jobs,so that means that the O/E injectors Would have done the same thing?,i've used weber (385cc)4 hole split pattern injectors on both 8 and 16 valve engines without any problems and most cosworth fords had weber yellow injectors standard equipment. All cosworth motored fords fitted with Garret turbos never had 360 degree bearings fitted by Garret,they all had bronze coloured 270 degree thrust bearings exept the T3/4 Escort which had an uprated sintered 270 degree iron bearing. A T3 can run 18/20psi(peak) for quite a bit without problems. The most important thing to do on any injector is to check the injector's resistance because if you don't you instantly fry the internal drivers inside the Digifant ecu and as soon as you try and re-start your corrado it will piss fuel into the sump. Remember,Digifant works with high imp.injectors,i.e 13/14 ohm. Cheesewire,i'm not trying to undermine you,my post is in no way aimed at you in a bad way mate.

Right mate, 1st 1 is your speedo sensor,just push it back on the sensor located on top of the gearbox,but check the small plastic retaining 'ears' that hold the sensor on the speedo drive as they are quite brittle. The white connector that connects to the (+/-) on the coil,use the two prongs on the coil that are closest to you. The black wire goes opposite the white connector on the coil. I did away with the earth strap as i can't see any use for it, a while back i heard that it was fitted to avoid fires or something. Just look for the redundunt hole it came off on the scuttle or bolt it back using the coils fixing bolts.