VEEDUBBED

Right guys i've got a strange problem. I've finished the turbo on my corrado but i've only got 0.4 boost pressure showing on the boost gauge,i've checked the obvious such as pipe leaks,burst hoses,loose clamps etc. My cars fitted with a garret T3/4 .60.48 turbo which is well man enough to spit out 2 Bar if needed,and as it was running 1.5bar constant on my old Golf valver i know it's ok. I've pressure tested the inlet tract and found no leaks,i've also sprayed shaving foam around my adapted manifold joints,injector 'o'-rings,nothing. The engine's idle is rock steady,it pulls no problem to 0.4Bar but that's it. I'm even running with the Audi external wastegate's boost pipe disconnected so in theory it should boost into oblivion,nope,still 0.4Bar. Baily diaphram dump valve works fine,by the way,when trying to adjust the wastegate by using it's small allen key screw nothing happens. Turbine blades are all fine,as are the comp. side blades,air filter's fine,brand new and huge(500+ BHP..),exhaust pipe diameter is 2/3,4 inch jobbie BUT i'm having to run the O/E 16v exhaust system because if i get pulled you know... I don't think it's the exhaust getting choked up because i was running it when it was a G60-16v and the comp. still put out 0.7Bar boost. Lastly,i've got a modded KR exhaust cam fitted but as before it's been fitted since it was supercharged. Sorry for the long post guys but i'm stumped,any suggestions are most welcome.

Happend to me yesterday while parked,all white steam inside engine bay,water pouring out from under the car... Turns out that the plastic inlet pipe to matrix snapped clean off,i've done this job by the roadside before by stripping all the dash out,now i'm gonna try this method,however,my ride's now turbocharged again AND has an Audi ext.wastegate so re-finding those horrid 10mm nuts is going to be challenging...

Dizzy caps are all the same,8v,16v etc. Check that the injector harness is'nt cracked and falling to bits allowing the wires to short. FPR short rubber hose cracked,holed etc,check the dist's connector is ok,fuel press. ok?,cracked lambda probe wiring?,engine earths all clean and tight?,ECU's connector pins corroded?. Def. change the CTS with an O/E one and G60s do have two micro switchs,1 idle contact and 1 full throttle. Drown the ISV in carb cleaner untill clean,check that the idle switch isn't sticking shut aswell. What chip are you running?,'cos it also sounds like your classic bloody digi-lag which i personally hate,why the hell Vw put such a program into their eeproms beats me..

I feel for you my friend..,if you were located a little closer i'd have given you a free 'raddo shell.

Oil jets failed open??,that's a new 1,i thought those little buggers sprayed oil all the time??

While your in there add the sump baffle fitted to older golfs,very good and has rubber gaskets both sides,unlike the shiyte affair fitted to 2.0 9A valvers,g60s etc. Don't forget to coat the new gasket with copperease grease that way when you need to remove the sump it will drop off no problem and can be re-used.

The pulley on the crank can fit on in 4 different positions,there's a small raised dimple on the cranksproket that has to ingauge with the small hole on the pulley otherwise it will wobble,go and double check as this may be the problem.

I've got about 3 spare PG and KR valver crankshafts i'm binning,you interested?,only problem is that i'm based in Rome... And they are all perfect,never broke a crank bolt on all my engines.

Rado.001,62 GBP including postage to Italy by the way,if you buy the Cooltek black grafite wrap you don't need the protective spray,that's what the demon tweeks catalog states anyway...

9A valvers don't have 1.

Smash the foccer off with a hammer and chisel.

I don't no Yan,i get most of my parts from my mate's car breakers,luckly he had a S2 in and i noticed it by accident while removing the wastegate,i'll get the number stamped on the body then you can check.

I'm waiting for a roll of grafite exhaust rap to arrive for myturbo downpipe,i ordered mine from Demontweeks whoose service IMO is second to none,highly recommended.

Hey Miguel,i tried to go onto your website but for some strange reason it only downloads the initial page with the corrado then nothing??,the other mani. is made by 'Turbocar' up in Bologna,no way you can fit a flange,there's just no room on it or any flat edges to work off. I'm using the 2.5inch cosworth pipes 'cos i only paid 15euro for them!!,the 3 inch pipe should be here soon which cost a bit more..

Very good info. Yanards,1 other thing you could use like i did is the coolant sensor housing off the Audi S2 20V 5 cyl turbo,it's located behind the head near the knock sensors and other multi plugs,it houses an identical sensor to the blue g60's version,possibly easier to get hold of that the other piece and will leave you more room around that crowded part of the cyl.head.

I can say after having built and run for a year a 2.0 9A 16v engine and G-charger that stacking 2 'ABF' headgaskets worked perfectly for me,just remember to use new headbolts or ideally use an ARP or raceware stud and nut kit,no leaks,no boost press. loss,oil leaks...nothing.

Aha!,Lowg has finally posted,i've been meaning to get in contact with you for ages mate!,well i decided to use the Audi manifold because i had a spare audi external 'gate sitting around idle,your right about the manifold though the buggers crack like mad and i think the primary pipes are too small diameter wise,no problem as if i'm not satisfied with it i'll rip it all out and use my other exellent quality 16v.turbo mani i've got spare,only problem is that it's for an internal 'gate and slaps the turbo right over the engine mount... The 2 and a half inch exhaust is only on the car temp. as i'm waiting for a 3inch cosworth downpipe to arrive,fitting that is going to be a real challenge.. LowG,i'm going to be needing a set of 82.5mm 2.0 9A forged pistons and poss. a ball bearing Garret turbo for this motor,PM me with any info and availability,prices etc. Great to see your company is growing,cheers,Andrew.

Flusted,depends what you need because that set-up photoed was made up with spare 8v.tensioners,g60 pulleys,Audi 80 bottom pulley for p.s pump etc. Tell me what you need and i'll see. Corrado_16,i'll snap a photo of my exhaust cam that's still installed on that engine,flusteds right though,i had to time and work out werte to weld the timing sprocket on right but following the pictures i found on Vwvortex i did it.

Right,i managed to get a couple of photos today of the turbo installed with w.gate and some of the exhaust downpipe. Now i'm waiting for a roll of grafiteexhaust rap,a few new gaskets for the inlets and the chopped inlet spacer that will give clearance to the inlet manifold.As i go along i'll snap a few more photos.

2 ABV metal headgaskets when i had the charger,worked with no problems at all,this time i'm spending coin on forged pistons,ARP or Raceware stud and nuts,i've already got a spare exhaust cam as inlet fitted along with a large Bosch fuel pump fitted and a set of 575cc Bosch injectors. Maybe standalone management in place of the Digi-1 set-up and def. a wide band lambda sensor. I'll get some photos tommorow and post them up.

I just rememberd another important thing,if you decide to use a Garret turbo remember that the turbine housing's flang will have to be modded because the Audi manifold has a different shape attachment,basicly you elongate the garret's mounting holes to match the Audi's KKK pattern studs. If using a KKK turbo it will bolt right up no problem. A KKK 26 is a good turbo to use if you can get the watercooled version,the oil cooled version is ok but less reliable in the long run. Also try and obtain a .63 trim exhaust turbine housing thats not cracked,which won't be easy.. You may find a good one off a Ford escort T3/4 cosworth which also has a handy tapping for the ox. sensor.

Right then,after starving my G-charger of oil i decided to re-fit my Garret T3/4 instead and also because i just hate the G-charger's constant whine. I'm using a manifold off an audi S2 20v 5 cyl motor which i got off Ebay cheap,be carefull though as they are prone to cracking all over. I like the idea of an ext. wastegate because it's simple to adjust,unlike my old set-up that ran an internal gate that was impossible to adjust(and flutterd like mad loosing boost) without jacking the car up. The manifold fits perfect ly,the problem is the wastegate that hits the back of the O/E 16v inlet manifold,not by alot but enough to make the mani.unable to bolt to the cyl. head.You could get a shorty manifold made(expensive) or do like me and chop up a spare bottom inlet manifold piece and use it as a spacer. Exhaust down pipe is a bastid to make because the gearchang rods get in the way if you make a 90 degree bend so you'll have to copy my exhaust which i'll take photos of and post up. I have'nt worked out a way to feed the wastegate back into the main downpipe yet,not much space. Remember also that the downpipe if 2.5 inch or more will butt up against the ABS motor so rap the downpipe with exhaust heat rap and seal with silicone spray. One other thing regards the fitting and dismanteling of the turbo for repair etc,inorder to remove the unit as a whole you'll have to use a spare sissor jack jammed in between the block just above the engine mount and bulkhead,this enables you to remove the unit as a compleat unit otherwise the exhaust mani. studs dont clear the turbo manifold's flange while your bending over breaking your back and struggling to remove the thing you'll see why...it's immpossible to do other wise,especially if using turbos such as Garret T3/4's,kkk 26,7's,T4 etc as the turbo slams against the firewall due to having a bigger compressor compared to a normal Garret T3,T25 etc which may come out with out the need for the jack. Remember also to use 13mm high grade turbo nuts inplace of the crap VW 12mm versions. I'll post up as i carry on with the job and let you all know if there are any other hitchs,cheers,Andrew.

Good damm question,i've got the charger sitting on the garage floor,bone dry inside the oil ways in and outlets and no oil on the floor(it's been standing 4 days with the oil inlet facing down). I'm lucky that i'm in the process of re-fitting my turbocharger in place of the G-charger so i don't need it and i've got another spare charger aswell, question that springs to mind is how come the bearings did'nt seize??? Waste of a perfect G-charger AND my fault...

Exellent Potato,strange thing that you mention the Passat TDI has a 2.5Bar absolute sensor because i was fiddling around with an '94 Vw golf 3 tdi's ECU the other day and the dam thing only had a Bosch 2 bar sensor fitted,identical to the G60's version!...go figure..

Did you replace the FPR's rubber o-ring when the injector rail was already dismanteled from the head?,i remember that it was a nightmare trying to replace the retaining hex bolts with the rail attached,probably pinched the o-ring. Use some WD-40 to lubricate the rings before re-assembly. cheers,Andrew.