VEEDUBBED

I normally give the 'o'-ring a coating of WD-40 or vaseline,waterproof white grease is also a good alternative.

I don't reckon it'd be worth it,remeber that the 'new' components were'nt exactly made yesterday,they've probably been sitting on the stealers shelf for god knows how long. I think that the only way you'll possibly see a gain would be fitting an uprated coil such as an MSD blaster,Lucas gold etc.

Right guys,here are a couple of photos of the exhaust system i made on my 2.0 turboed valver,most components were bought from Demon-tweeks such as the various bends,curves,meter long pipes etc. The exhaust flex i got off eBay.de as well as the two Vr6 turbo center silencers. I built the system myself working under a jacked up car,no lift,ramps ect so let me warn you if your contemplating such a job that you'll discover a new meaning to back pain,stiff shoulders etc... It took me around 1 month to cut,measure,weld,fit,remove,re-fit,re-measure,re-fit,adjust,check,align,tighten down,re-position etc,etc. It's not a job for first timers,lots of swearing involved but if you don't fancy coughing up 500++dollars for a ready-made item,this is what you can do...

I have not the faintest idea,all i know is that the P.S. oil level was fine and the engine was'nt running,i goes to shut the bonnet(car was being moved in garage) and found that mess. Weird..

Just a quick word to say to be carefull if your moving your corrado with the engine off and turning the steering,mine pi$$ed out P.S. oil from the breather hole coating the bumper,engine front valance etc,not a lot but enough to make a bloody mess. Every day something new..,put a rag over the small hole next time?.

Check the white temp. sensor's connector and small teminals,sometimes they can get dislodged,covered in oil etc. Check the camshaft pulley's small half moon hasn't broken,make sure the chopper disk inside the dist. hasn't got bent by locating springs when turning over engine with dist. cap disconnect. Have you checked the ecu's main connector for green corrosion?,sticking AFM arm/plate?(carb cleaner works well on gunge),injector spray pattern good?,fuel pressure up to spec.?have you tried 'hot wireing' the cold start injector?,rock-hard injector main seals leaking air?... Let us know what happens.

I've got a bailey piston jobbie fitted to my turboed valver and it's definatly open at idle,as soon as it gets a whif of positive boost it shuts,exellent piece of hardware.

Err,oil press. switch on filter housing...oil temp sensor on oil filter housing?.

It could be loads of things,fuel pressure?,slipping charger belt,bad compressions,leak-down test been done?+comp. test with and without oil,digilag in eeprom if not SNS,throttle plates not opening up fully,slipping clutch,retarded ign. timing,cam timing out a couple of teeth,etc,etc..

Apart from the obvious difference in downpipes the VR6 Cat. is longer than the 9A valver's Cat,longer but bolts up using the same flange,9A's Cat is like the G60's version,more of a barrel shape and shorter.

8valve exhaust has a smaller dia. downpipe compared to the valver's downpipe,only other thing that springs to mind are the brackets that the rubber 'o' rings fit onto,'90 hooks are different from '92 prongs(?) and the mountings rubbers are also modified.

Very nice,now if only i had the seats AND subframes i ordered too...

Well seeing as you've only got a supply and return it's quite simple,the G-charger's oil drain is fed back to the sump by using a short lenght of rubber pipe attached to a barb that's screwed into the engine block. The oil supply braided pipe is connected to a banjo bolt arrangement on the side of the cyl. head along with the black oil press. switch.

Low fuel pressure under load,broken,split small rubber pipe on FPR,full load switch not engaging due to slack throttle cable,corrosion inside king lead to coil,hall sender in dist. breaking down under full load(quite common),injectors partially blocked,choked -up fuel filter,bloked air filter,plug gaps too wide with worn electrodes....

Thanks guys,i was looking on the German ebay at the various subframes on offer,i'll get the O/E Recaro jobbies for the corrado.

Artical number: 280101585454. Go onto eBay.de then go to car parts etc and punch in 'Recaro',as soon as you see a black pair of speed seats,there the 1's.

Right guys, Does anyone know if a set of recaro 'Speed' seats will fit the corrado?,the seats are the one's found on the German eBay but i don't speak German and when i ask the various sellers in English i get no reply,ever helpfull Germans. I know i'll need the specific subframes but i'm worried about the seat's height. Thanks.

...But be carefull when/if your working in poor conditions with not much light,no room,no jack etc,etc,if you position the fuel filter too far back in it's supporting cradle you can pinch the fuel feed hose as it bends because the black feed line is clipped to the under body and sometimes won't compensate by moving so the hard nylon pipe kinks were it has the original curve just before the rubber pipe that connects to the fuel filter thus reducing the fuel feed to the filter. Worth checking and not making the same mistake that idiot VEEDUBBED did...

Bastard of a job because you have to dismantle the bayonett connction at the base of the mirror(the part that turns through 90 degrees if bumped),it has a very strong short spring and is virtually impossible to re-install when finished. I had a load of spare mirrors that i tried dismanteling so i would'nt advise it. Do you need a spare shell?,i've got a load i don't need,just let me know if left or right,the're free if you want them.

Last year when i renovated my corrado from another spare car i took out the screen and fitted the other car's screen in its place,you'll definatly need the cutting wire/handles etc to get the old glued in sreen out of the doner car without damaging/cracking the screen. I took out the entire dashboard as i was stripping both cars anyway,first get a blowtorch and heat up an old flat small screw driver and poke a hole through the sealent,be carefull not to scratch the black band running around the srceen's edge,insert the special cutting wire and start cutting/pulling on the handle(remember to first tie up the end of the wire to the dashboard's securing braket or similer fixed part. Be patient and work slowly and you'll succeed eventually,i know because i removed and glued back a total of 8 windows after breaking 1 side window and cracking a front screen through impatience... Be sure to get the right sealant for bonding and REMEMBER,if you manage to get the sealant on anythingother than on the black perimeter surround remove it at once,it is immpossible to remove when dried,how do i know??...

Timing belt may have jumped a couple of teeth knocking off the timing,the engine would def. do that afterwards. Blown head gasket?,maybe but the car would still rev without problems. I'd first check the cam belt position first. It could also be water in the fule tank/lines but it's rare.

I wonder who else has a non 'roof corrado...

I've got hundreds of bits left over from god knows how many G60 mills,let me know if you need anything.

Thanks crasher but what's 'Sputter'?(butter???...)

Right lads, Are the shell bearings fitted to turbo diesel golfs.passats etc stronger than say,the bearings fitted to the g60 engines?. Are there any differences?,are they made of stronger material? and do the shells have small oil holes like the 2.0 9A mill's versions. thoughts pleeze.