VEEDUBBED

Check that the rubber o-ring hasn't become twisted on the expasion bottle cap. I recommend a product called 'below zero' avaiable from Midland preformance centre',on my 2.0 G60-16v corrado in 38 degree outside heat the temp of the engine's oil never goes above 100 and the water 103 max.

Crank pulley should NOT wobble kongo,check that you did'nt put the pulley/damper on the wrong part of the crankshaft sprocket,there's a little raised dimple on the toothed sprocket that goes into a hole drilled into the crankshaft pulley. As for the crankshaft bolt did you re-use the G60 original bolt? if yes i would highly recommend puttin some strong locktite on the bolt or get the non-strech type bolt and use that instead.

Henny,i had the same problem when i bought my third red G60,the bloke that sold me the car said that the engines got a holed piston 'cos there was no way to get the running on 4 cylinders even after changing god knows how many components. Turned out to be a couple of faulty hyd tappets and the problem was identical to your engines,even worse when cold. By the way,the next time you ever need a loom for the G60,pop down to your nearest car breaker and cut the injector loom off an old fiat croma,lancia thema,delta turbo,even an old fiat tempra/tipo,get some wiring conduct and there you are,i've done mine 2 years ago and never had a problem,cost?-nowt.

Here you are mate,the G60 'rod is the shorter much beefier on the left while the drilled rod on the right came out of an old golf 1800cc 'KR' valver's mill. N.B:not all conrods were drilled, it seems Vw put them in some valvers whilst others did with out.

I'll get you some photos later of a G60'PG' conrod next to a 1800cc 'KR' valver conrod and post them up.

Toad,i can give you my opinions as i've done nearly all the conversions,what do you prefer more,being pushed into the back of the seat or having supercharger power/torque from 1500rpm to the red line?. Last year i turboed my corrado with a Garret T3/4 off a Lancia delta intergrale and also using the delta's weber injection system,very powerfull but fuel economy was awful as i was using 4 bosch green '803' injectors. That was a 'PG' G60 block and pistons mated to a 'KR' 16valve head,turbo lag and ultralow CR made me change the engine to a 2.0 9A G-charged engine using 2 'ABF' metal headgaskets and SNS chipped Digi injection,well what a difference,ok granted,you won't get your neck snapped back due to huge torque but the fuel economy is exellent and reliabiltiy has been 100% positive. My dad keeps nicking the car to go to the seaside so i don't use it alot but it's very quite and looks all OE VW,when it was turboed my dad would'nt touch it for fear that it'd break down...

Hello all,right,figure this 'cos i'm a bit stumped,i'm changing the engine on a mate of mine's '81 audi quattro turbo fitted with the 'WR' 10valve turbo engine and i noticed while dismanteling the engine(nightmare..)that the wastegate's actuating pipe is connected to the exhaust manifold..,how the hell can the wastegate work by receiving exhaust gas instead of the normal way,ie with the hose connected to the turbo compressor,inlet manifold etc??. I also have a spare Audi S2 external wastegate that connects to the inlet manifold so i know it's different. Anyone got any experience on these uber rare motors??.

Rig up a mech. fuel press. gauge and see what fuel pressure you've got on first starting the engine,99% of the time the pumps tired and needs 3 turns on the ignition to prime the system,try it and see if it makes a difference.

Two high press. fuel pumps???,if i understood that correctly i don't see the need for 2 pumps unless your running a 550+hp Garret GT-35/40 equipped VR6,T4 turbo 16v,8 injectors etc. Total overkill on a G-charged mill regardless of what mods are done,try disconecting 1 of the pumps and see if it makes any difference. Also,if your running two hp fuel pumps i assume you've also installed bigger fuel lines?.

No mate because i've got a golf 2 16v bosch fuel pump inside my G60 fuel tank,fitted inside the O/E pump housing,check the fuel press. with a mechanical fuel press. gauge on start-up,should shoot up to 3 Bar as soon as you hear the pump's relay kick in. Ignore my last post about the spoiler,i read this post afterwards.

Adie,have you mixed up the vacume pipes on the throttle body?,ECU's pipe goes to the upper brass nipple. What chip are you running?,injectors?,fuel press. been checked?,holes or splits in any small vacume hoses?,broken/perished/heat cracked lambda wiring?,faulty lambda probe?,faulty FPR?,air filter choked?,small brass nipples on throttle body blocked? oh and any news on the 90mm spoiler??????.

Same problem when i first bought a 2nd series golf 16V KR 1800,turned out to be a faulty hall sender inside the dizzy.

Henny,could you give me some details of the company you know who makes the longer belts?,thanks.

Can't be done mate,my set-up is completly custom made out of bits off varios G60's,16valave 'rados,audi 80 8v's. 1 long belt runs the g-charger,water pump(2.9 VR pulley),alt(VR6 120 amp) and about 4 tensioner wheels so i won't be able to find a toothed belt that long.

9A 2.0 engines have only 1 knock sensor,ABF 2.0 mills have got 2 and they have different non mech.injection systems,i'm turning into such a fu##ing anorak..

Hey flusted,don't bother with ANY other chip other than SNS for digifant 1,i've got a BBM stg.4 chip but the main problem is the famous Digilag,the difference between the two chips are night and day. I've got an SNS.5 no-lag 8valve chip fueling my 2.0 16v g lader engine and it's exellent,i can only imagine how well a dedicated 16v.g60 chip would work...

Well,i was lucky because i found a corrado that had been abandoned in a lock-up for around 8 years and had only 30000miles clocked,when i took the head off to put another gasket on to reduce CR the engine's internals were spotless,no way i'm going to start changing pistons,bearings etc on an engine that good. I'm also lucky that i do everything my self and have about 5000 square meters of land with lock-ups already there so i've no problem of storage space,i've got proper tools,engine crane,stands,jacks etc. I started the g-charger work last year,all in it took about 6 months to finish as i did all the restoration work aswell,all in my spare time,weekends,holidays. To do a job like this takes time if you want a reliable car,i've done 4000 thousand km's since starting and have had no problem apart from belt tension issues,unfortunatly there's no room for the O/E tensioner so i keep making up varios pulley arangements to try and compensate. I have'nt a clue how much power the car makes,rolling roads over here are very rare and the operators don't no shiyte when presented with something like this..,i only know that on the motorway it wipes the floor with Audi S3's.TT's etc and it only puts out 0.5bar pressure with a 68mm pulley because the bloody belt slips at higher rpm. Well i've got most bits if you decide to do the same,let me know what you need and i'll sort you. 1 thing's for sure,when the car's ready and runs properly you'll find any excuse to get in it drive and enjoy it,it's that kind of car.

Here's a couple of photos:

OR you could G-charge the bugger like i did!,2 metal head gaskets,new head bolts,SNS stg.5 chip(Absolute must),rig up a few brakets,go to breakers with cardboard box and get loads of different types, a couple of different size ribbed belts,(breaker again),intercooler,many types available,ebay etc. And it just so happens that that VEEDUBBED has a spare charger,mounting braket,spare G60 ecu,throttle bodys,air box and quite a few other bits. Belive me,i've had turbo 16valve golfs,corrados and they were very quick, but i love this conversion,lovely and neat factory look as soon as you open the bonnet. The only problem i've encountered is the dreaded belt slip which i can't seem to eradicate.

Just remember to put the chip installed with it's little notch facing the the same way,they must match. Oi flusted,you done my flange yet?, you lazy begger...

That looks like an old cosworth air injector photoed within the red circle, on the previous page,it was used to control boost pressure from the turbo,very good,precise way of doing it. The compleat Weber/IAW injection system fitted to cosworth fords,delta intergrales,even horrible cars such as fiat tempras,lancia prismas etc,etc takes some beating,only four wires and a chopper disk on the crank pulley and your done,even the VW's 16v dist. has the same attachment as those cars for the phase sensor,i did it and it was a very good set-up and you have the added advantage that the IAW set-up uses a RRFPR and can use either low or high imp. injectors,unlike digifant 1 were your stuck with high imp.units. The injection unit also has a standard 3 bar map sensor(Lancia delta integrale 16v'89 onwards).

PS pump oil bottle,smelly fluid?,change it. Can the power steering be removed?,well yes but why??,with the weight of that VR lump across the front wheels it seems like a silly idea IMO.

Underneath that black plastic cover that covers the throttle body,two rubber pipes attached and a 3 pin electrical connector.

I'm in Rome mate so your a couple of blocks away,did you remove the push rod located inside the input shaft?,maybe while you were changing the push rod's oil seal you forgot to re-install it,if you did,no problem,just remove the gearbox's green round end cover,un-bolt end cover with release bearing and put the rod back in,without having to remove the 'box,again. Is your golf's 020 'box fitted with a self adjusting cable or a manual adjusted version?,if automatic try pushing down on the clutch operating arm on the gearbox to re-set the internal adjuster mech,on my old 2nd series golf gti 16v the cable often gave me problems like yours,try it. Check that the dist.connection wasn't pulled off/damaged,did you disconnect any earths?,i'm assuming your g/f's ride is a gti?.

Hey matt,totally OT,did you ever get that warm-up hose for your exh.manifold i posted a while back???.