VEEDUBBED

No,def. not the belts,the keyways are both pointing straight up to twelve o'clock,what i can't fathom is why does the charger only turn when using the old 11mm Gates belt??,but on the spare unit they all work fine!!!

Well i had a spare 15000mile VR6 ZF steering rack sitting around and gathering dust so i fitted the rack to my G60 in place of the O/E TRW version that had two split gaitors,the rack itself bolts up fine to the sub-frame,you first have to change the inner steering arms before though,Vw say in their workshop manual that the TRW arms should'nt be interchanged with the ZF versions, and vice-versa,well i've done it and also done ~8000km with no problems,just remember to put thread lock on the steering arms before swapping over,the 1 thing i did notice was that,if,like me,your using 205/50/15 series tyres the fronts under full lock will very slightly rub on the inner front wings near the struts,don't worry though it's only very slight,nothing to worry about. You will HAVE to use the ZF's power steering pump aswell,the steering WILL work using the G60's pump but when parking the car you will not be able to move the steering wheel fast to the left or right otherwise the steering gets heavy and will kick back due to the G60's lower pressure PSP, the VR's higher output pump(3/4bar more pressure than G60's) obviosly overcomes this. You will also have to use the VR's high pressure pipeing due to the fact that the VR uses a Banjo bolt that bolts onto the PSP,the G60 has a threaded pipe(pressure line).

Right fellow veedubbers,figure this 1 out.. I purchashed 2 new cogged G60 timing belts and 68mm pulley from darren at gwerks a few weeks back,today i finally find a few spare hours to try and finish my car,head re-fitting,sump,uprated headlamp loom etc,etc. Anyway,i remove the old 72mm steel pulley and go to change the cogged belt,a job i've done countless times,i fit the 12mm german made belt which is of exellent quality,much better looking than the O/E Gates version,i then check the timing marks to see if the're still aligned,all ok. I then try turning the charger's main shaft to seat the belt,here starts the fun,the shaft would'nt shift until i put a spanner on the pulley bolt and forced it to move..,wtf is going on here?,faulty belt?,maybe,so i try the other 12mm belt(i bought 2),same thing,belt binds,needs exessive force to turn shaft and jumps teeth on cogged wheels. I re-fit the old Gates belt and the charger turns perfectly,as it did before removing this belt. I take all three belts, the 11mm Gates belt+ the 2 12mm versions and trial fit them onto my spare G-charger i have for sale,the bloody spare charger spins perfectly with no binding,jumping teeth etc,regardless of which belt i fit,what the christ is going on here?,how is it possible that the belts won't work on identical chargers??,anyone come across this before?.

That's strange,since finishing my 2.0 g6016v engine i've never had problems with oil seals blowing and my oil line is fitted directly on top of the oil filter housing,when first started the oil pressure is 8+Bar then when warm at idle it's at 2Bar,when booting it,7/8 bar.(Racetech mech.gauge) I've done 8000km without the slightest problem.

I've done it,yeah it is a big job,i was lucky because i found an abandoned 16valve 2.09A corrado in a lock up that had stood for ~8 years with 29000miles on the clock,so engine condition was'nt an issue,the most time consuming bit is inventing all the various pulleys,tensioners,radiator position,alternator position etc,etc. The difference in preformance between the PG engine and the 9A 2.0 mill is quite worthwhile..

VEEDUBBED also has a 15000mile VR mill up for grabs...,totally dismanteled,all photos ready...

Tenner=10GBP

How much did i buy what for?

How much did i but what for?

Yeah,sometimes they tend to 'forget' to add the small plastic sleeve,i bought a pair of those pliers 3 years ago when i was down in England at a tool fair for a tenner,paid for themselves the first time i used them.

There's no way you'll shift the guides easily without a hyd press,some say the guides should be fitted with the head heated to 100 degrees first,the manual states that you drift them in on a cold cyl head,i once did change all 16 guides by making a tool and just whacked them in and out on a cold head with a mallet i had no problems luckly but you could easily break the top off a guide and cause other damage. If you do decide to try it's very important that you first measure with a caliper the actual guide height in the head,should be 10mm(seal end of guide)the stem seals can also be real swines to remove without the special pliers,forget using normal pliers,believe me,they won't work. 11mm long socket works when re-fitting stem seals,always lubricate the top of the valve first and use the special plastic sleeve to protect the stem seal from the valve's ridges that retain the valve collets

Be very carefull when fitting those rings,the instructions say that you should remove the plexiglass front cover using a stanley knife to cut around the glue,bad move,as soon as i breathed on it it cracked but luckly i've got a few spare,not as easy as they make it out to be...

Oh,ok,that's only gonna take me 2 days to drive the 2000km distance from Rome mate...

Hey flusted,i still wondering what that cam swap is going to be like on my G-charged valver engine..,if i send you down 1 of those sprockets could your mate do that mod for mine??,let me know,cheers,Andrew.

I noticed the same thing when i retro-fitted the oil cooler of a Saab Aero 2.3 turbo,the cooler is positioned right in front of the bumper's lower vents,on the front cross member,the temp still reads 108/112 degrees 100 on motorway criuse,i sometimes wonder if Vw senders are all that accurate..

Yeah flusted,your right,i've been trying to locate 2 of those internal cam gears on ebay but nothing has turned up,have you ever tried removing the original sprockets?,bastids won't shift even when heated..

here are some photos of different cams,twin exh. cams,KR 1.8 versions,different cam gears...

Watch the cam sprokets if your swapping cams,early KR versions have different pitch teeth compared to valver 9A cams,i've just swapped twin exhaust cams onto my 2.0 G60-16valve head and i still have them on the work bench,this afternoon i'll shoot some photos up of both heads,1 with KR cams installed and the other with two exhaust cams timed up and show you the differences.

Some'93 Passats with air-con had those same twin fans fitted as O/E,may be worth a strole around your local scrappy?,also check the dummy motor for play as they were known to knock out the bearings making the fans noisy during operation.

bobert,PM sent.

Mike,i'm in the same boat as you mate,i never have any time and my car's kept in a barn which is very damp,i'm worried about the bores rusting seeing as the engine's headless,has been for a month..damm work

Moneypit,what's up with your suspension?,car looks as if it's floating..

Hmm,maybe so,well either 6 or 8 then.

That's a shame,even worse when i've got G60 engine components by the shed full which frankly i don't need and will probably be dumped in the skip,it's the bloddy postage that's the problem,anyway if i can help you with any component,let me know and i'll put it aside for you.

Unbolt it and spray the butterflies with carb cleaner,carefull you don't damage the gaskets,i don't remember if their available from the stealer anymore,allen bolts are 8mm.