Supercharged

Oh no sorry... I've been a customer since the PD Motorsport days and they have gone out of there way a few times to help me out so I like to give them a bit of free advertising in return as I don't think Darren really gets the time now to post on here.

That's unlucky... the apex strips look fairly worn / shrunk so looks like it's overdue a rebuild. Yan's charger was worn in the place where yours is chipped and Darren glued the strip into place, the problem you have is that there is nothing at the end to hold it in which is not ideal... Anyhow - I'd wait until Darren has a look as he has more experience than anyone in the UK - be interesting to see what he thinks!

Maybe from here - viewtopic.php?f=23&t=63735&p=743152&hilit=brace#p743152

Sounds like a MK3 one as they are 10mm wider. The GB forum does not get pruned so should be able to find it if it was bought off here? ^ not heard anything about variations before Tom as all the shells should be made on a jig, they aint that old - if there are any it must be from wear on the chassis... I'm running a Trimsport one on both cars and both times fitment was easy and a tightened it up until it matched the figure in the Bentley manual for the distance between the turrets. I wouldn't want to push the turretts out a further 10mm as you don't know what effect it will have passive rear steering and the chassis - the back panel seam may well crack in time like you see on MK2 Golfs.

Take it back... In future please use you're existing thread - no point at all starting a new one and linking an old one.

Yeah replace them as they go brittle with age and warp. Pattern ones only last a year or two so I would buy genuine, will only be pennies more and the O rings are better too.

Great pics as always mate and looks like you've used the right amount of grease too (most people go overboard and pack too much in and it pops the rear seal out) As for tightening the bearings, I was shown a few years ago by a VAG technician - do them up by hand as tight as you can with a socket then 1/4 of a turn with a ratchet to take any slack out, loosen again and tighten back up by hand until you can 'float' the washer with little or no force at all with a screwdriver. You should check the play after 3-500 miles and adjust if needed (using a new split pin) but the last two sets I have done have not needed any. Get it right and they will last years and years. The other trick I was shown to making them last was to work grease into them before you fit, If you don't do this them the lifetime is limited to 1-2 years.

On a budget of less than £500 just stick to standard Sachs / Boge shocks from either GSF or VW spares - will be about £150 for all 4 and budget another £50 for top mounts, rear bumpstops and the upper spring platform.

Credit card it.

John had 2 systems (one early and one late) for sale at Stonor... not sure if he sold them of not but worth giving him call and cancelling you're order with Venom (they seem to always have problems with supplying parts in good time for people!)

Blimey - yeah don't drive it or even start the engine... if the rest of the strip gets caught outside of the groove it's meant to sit in it could write off the scroll! If it has done some damage don't panic as I heard BBM were looking at re-manufacturing some scrolls fairly soon

^ Yes, they seem to fail safe and still work at the higher speed...

It changes on chassis number... upto 50-P-020000 it's 191959481C and after it's 1H0959481B The later one is a round type plug, early one is flat with 3 connections in a row

The Brembo setup from a Seat Ibiza Cupra is a fairly straight bolt on kit and you just need some custom hoses that Badger5 supply. You will need to make sure they fit under your wheels though! If you are still running standard wheels then just fit black diamond discs and Ferodo DS2500 pads.

They quoted you for VR6 ones 535615301 - retail is £35 Should be £23.50 each after parts club discount but it depends on the dealer.

You're best off taking a day off if you can and driving down for a day... it's worth checking every year but it might not need anything doing apart from apex strips. The other good thing about taking the car there is Darren can set it up properly on the wideband etc.

Have you read the post from Greg Kirby back in 2007? Regardless of other issues with the cooling system, if it's getting to 100c then that fan should be running almost constantly, if this is not the case as I suspect then you need to change the Thermoswitch.

Yeah deffo aftermarket - maybe valet mode switches

Have you vagcom'd it? Maybe just the oil that needs changing as VW auto's are pretty darn reliable!

HIC / Flux = basically the same company

The cheeky fecker didn't even pay that much!

No, original ones were white, new 6N0 parts are black.

Hmmm... so if you pushed down on the piston hard it would just sink all the way? If so them they are shot - think about it on the road and how they would be able to 'damp' like that... I replaced mine with standard VR6 gas shocks and H&R's - ride quality and handling is so much better!!

Hmmm.... tbh I;m not a fan of the FK's at all... mine fell apart at less than 40k miles, 2 of the shocks were completely knackered, one at the front and one at the back on opposite corners... The only real way to test is to take apart and see if the piston has any resistance and returns - 2 of mine just pushed in easily... What about the bump test at each corner - see if there is any difference side to side...

Doh.... I should have remembered this yesterday when Neil was haggling over the price of the Vr :)