CrazyDave

I used to have a washed valver.... then it went to the farm my work is based at... and now it's muddy, covered in brick dust and the latest addition is straw.?.?.? Looking good Toad, sorry to hear about the VR. But I'm sure when funds allow you'll sort it :)

stromlaufplan_gamma4.pdf100.jpg[/attachment:1zzcjerg] Daddies little helper!! The rear beam is pretty rusty but it'll clean up OK. Few coats of some decent paint and it'll be good as new. ETKA Corrado.pdf101.jpg[/attachment:1zzcjerg] Big pile of old scrap..... well the rear brakes, hoses and back plates etc. All going to be cleaned and painted then reassembled with lots of copper slip so I can get it all apart again easily :) stromlaufplan_gamma4.pdf102.jpg[/attachment:1zzcjerg] This is the caliper carrier bolt that rounded out despite being very careful. Mr angle grinder made a nice slot to bar it lose with :lol: Corrado92.pdf103.jpg[/attachment:1zzcjerg] Rear calipers work fine but as you can see, need a good clean up and some paint. passat climatronic wiring diags.pdf104.jpg[/attachment:1zzcjerg] This all needs a good clean, I started but then got bored :) climatronic wiring-Golf from May 01.pdf105.jpg[/attachment:1zzcjerg] Under all this lot its classic green :) honest! 2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdf106.jpg[/attachment:1zzcjerg] Knock the old rubber bits out with a hammer, then slit the metal sleeve with a hacksaw and tap that out with a chisel. All out in no more than 15 minutes :D 107.jpg[/attachment:1zzcjerg] Who needs expensive toys! Those old bushes are still good for something :lol: It's off to the shot blaster at work with all the bits and bobs that need cleaning this week. Should be able to build it all back up again next weekend :D

It's the batteries thats the problem. AC induction motors and drives are easy to come by in my business. But you really need Li-polymer or Li-Ion cells to make it work, lead acid are just too bulky for the power they give :( If I could find a good source for the cells, it's do-able.

Cheers Dave i will probably call on you sooner than you think :lol: Im busy looking out for a TDI or old diesel turbo engine for the valver,think this is the sensible route to go rather than the throttle body idea as its going to be my daily when its done 8) the electric milk float sounds good,sure this will be a corrado first ! I had more of this kind of thing in mind...... http://www.pluginamerica.com/media/Wrightspeed.wmv :shock: :shock: Andy, if I leave this up to Merrin, most likely pink or purple :D . We have a spray booth for machine parts at work, so just have to see what they have in. Not power coat, but low bake, durable stuff.

Thanks for the replies all. Cazza, we have shot blasting booth at work, but its only a little thing (Having said that the front panel when in so maybe the beam will?). We have an aqua blast machine (otherwise known as the green monster! Cos it's big and green and has a nasty habit of springing a leak down your leg when using it) which is a bit bigger so I'll see if it'll go in that. If you can get the beam off and bring it over I could blast it pending if it'll fit in :) I'll get some pics up later today. It's -3.5degrees at the mo! Toad , not had done much with the valver as yet (although that needs bushes all round really), still running great, if a little thristy even compared to a VRT!!!! It's been sat a work for the last 2-3 weeks cos I've been on site in a pool car (Ford Mundain). Think I'll drop the jump leads into the boot before I swap back again, the battery might be flat :( Been toying with the idea of fuel injection throttle bodies and MegaSquirt :D . And I did have this idea of taking the engine out completely and making it electric 8) but don't think milkfloat, cos that wouldn't be me know would it. Resist, must resist the temptation to mod.... James, getting pretty close then. Your taking it nice and easy pace is like my flat out in a hurry :D . Even if I have to make another prototype I'll have something for you :D

I've had older cars for most of my driving life, but for some reason, this the Corrado is much worse than the MK1 Golfs etc that I've had in the past. And they were all 20 years+ old not 12? Maybe it is a Corrado thing, first time I've owned a Karmann built VW. Don't get me wrong, they're very well made, up with the best from Germany (I had a Spannish built Polo for a while and that was rubbish by comparison). I couldn't get the rear seat squab out on the passenger side, the wax flooding had stuck it to the floor!! EDIT: The CrazyFilter is going a bit slow at the minute (too much working away during the week). When things settle down I'll get it finished. The prototype works great, I went for a good drive out to Shrewsbury the other week and it ran perfect. It's so quick down small B roads, pretty scary how quick it is out on the road, the mid range is awesome. How much more have you got to do James. I'll pick up the pace a bit if your getting close to finishing?

Updates then! I finally managed to get around to start sorting out the rear beam bushes on the VR today. It's one of those jobs thats been hanging around for months and months but I never quite get around to sorting it out. Decided to drop the whole beam off (bushes can be done without dropping the beam off, but I wanted to have a good fettle whilst underneath). Removed all the rear discs, calipers, carriers, stub axles, brake pipes and all the bits of plastic that the ABS cables / pipes clip to. The OS caliper frame had one bolt that rounded out :( Bit of a bar steward to get off on the car, so I dropped the beam off and then ground a large slot across the head of the allen pin and could then lever it free with a large screwdriver. Going to paint the calipers, carriers, beam, mounting brackets etc so they look nice and fresh. And have a good clean up underneath whilst everything is off. The tank straps are in a right old state, all rusty? So those are going to get a good rub down and a few coats of paint. I'll be a lot happier when all the bits have been removed and refitted, as pretty much all of the rear end has never been apart since the car was built, so it's all a bit of a struggle to get the old bolts out. Is it just my car or does everybody have trouble getting anything under the car undone for the first time?

Yeh thats the fella!! Put a set on our MKIV Golf recently transformed the handling. Oh Shaun..... I think I can see some left over dinner under you car :lol:

Well it must be that time of the year, because guess what I'm doing this weekend..... well apart from cutting the lawn.... rear axle bushes, paint the beam and back plates etc etc. Did the comp valve last year and it wasn't a nice job, would have been far easier to take the beam off (with hindsight!). Are you sure you don't fancy fitting an Eibach anti-roll bar whilst your at it? Seems a shame when it's all in bits :)

You guys.......... :D

Works on wheels just as well as it does on kids :)

They look rather scarely like the ones I have on my MKIV Golf!!! Think I'd better change them quick although they do get a regular copper slipping whenever I take the rims off, I even managed to get one out after our local main dealer had been at them with an air gun. Like the rims Andy, really suit the Corrado IMHO. Get yourself sorted soon, you've only got 4 seats in a C and number 4 looks like it'll be full in August!

Yes, re-cal the throttle when you've adjusted it. You'll end up with a balance between throttle stop and aux air valve that give a nice idle all the way through warming up.

Yes, increase the ignition timing a little at idle. When the engine is cold it needs a little more burn time so more advance is better. You could set this in cold start advance settings. The tables your looking at the not the ones I meant, the ones from the Tables menu have a tools section when opened.

Can you wind the idle up a bit mechanically? Just so you don't have to hold the throttle open. Give it a bit more fuel in the idle bins 100kPa down to 0 with 43-45% just so you can get it started. You can sort this out when it's warmed up. I'd adjust the warmup enrichment up a bit at a time until it starts properly you could also give it a bit more ignition timing but try one thing at a time so you see what the changes are. Good work Wayne, almost almost working :)

In the table editor, under tools, select curve generate. Use a linear and enter the lowest and highest table numbers, click us existing x and then generate. MS will work out all the ones in between.

DOH! Always the way, just when you think it's a nice easy job...... :(

Ahh, ok. I'll try and find that version, should make more sense. Looking at your screens, you need some warmup numbers set -40 to 180% and use the fill tool to create a linear line for all the other points. Increase the crank -40 PW to 12.5% and raise the cranking RPM limit to 500rpm. Ignition table looks fine. Give that a try.....

Adjust your MAF signal back a bit at a time until the AF reads correct, you should be able to get it spot on 12.5 afr on WOT and 14.7-14.8 at idle and providing your DV / MAF locations are good it'll run perfect. MAFT Pro, I did look at these, but didn't know of anybody who had tried them. Gave me a few ideas for my own box though :) I don't like the idea of trimming the WOT AFR in auto, not really a recommended practice, OK for setting up though. You can also get rid of the MAF and run in speed density mode with a MAP sensor, this is a bit MegaSquirt ish. But having tried that I think I'd spend the extra cash and go Emerald or DTA. Been out driving the VRT today, complete with Daves box o'tricks and I'm still really pleased with it, very smooth. Hoping to try a certain FI VR thats running Emerald soon, so I'll let you know how that goes.

Wayne, I've sent you a new file and changed a few settings. Not sure why but I couldn't see any numbers in the cranking pulse width table, so I put default MS numbers in here. I've also changes the cranking speed to 500rpm, so that the crank pw stays active until the engine catches. Give this a go and see how you get on. Fingers crossed. Do you have your ignition table set to all 0. It may be that I don't have an ECU connected to thats why I can't see anything? Dave

Great news! And the feeling of driving a VR after a few months off is something else ain't it.... Looking forward to seeing you and the motor at some shows this year. Got to be one of my all time favourite Corrados 8)

AFAIK the injector calculator is fine. It does look like your injectors are running pretty low down (ms wise). What are your injector settings? Opening time? max PW etc etc REQ fuel is used as a base for the fuel calcs in MegaSquirt, it'll change the way the settings in the fuel table are interpreted, so if you fit bigger injectors you can change the REQ_Fuel and the maps can stay pretty much the same as before. Are the idle sites in your fuel map about 40%? Cos it looks like as soon as it starts to catch the fuel PW drops right down in the log. All the ones around full vacuum and idle speed need to be around that value or more, try increasing the idle sites until it catches. Can you see how it starts to catch more when you crack the throttle open, keep doing that it will start soon. Check out my MS stuff for the VRT. This had 440cc injectors, idle PW hovered at about 1.8-2.0ms. So yours should be about 3 ish at idle I reckon. http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=27844&st=0&sk=t&sd=a&start=105 Can you screen grab your VE table, warm up and after start enrichment tables. Just get them on the screen and press Alt+PrtScn then open Paint and do a Ctrl+C to paste the pictures then you should be able to upload them. Or send me your MSQ by email (I'll PM you my address). What speed is engine run set to? Should be about 700-750 for your motor. This will keep the crank PW going until it really starts. Sooooo clooooose Wayne, wish I could come and give you a hand? Which part of the country are you in?

Sounds like a plan Kev. Could be very interested if the existing downpipe fits. My manifold is still holding up OK, but it doesn't get the use that yours does. Think I've only done a total of 4500 miles since building it 10 months ago. Top job as always James, your ability to keep coming up with innovative solutions with nicely designed bits of metal still amazes me! Just no holding you back.

That sounds correct. The trigger in the dizzy needs to happen early ie before TDC as this is how much much the ignition can be advanced, but you shouldn't need any more that 40 degrees of advance so you can bring it back about 20.

Pretty much nearly always have to crack the throttle open when initially starting, just until yu get the cold start, warmup, idle fueling etc settings just right. Get that timing checked while your cranking though. Cos that'll be the other thing that could be wrong.