CrazyDave

Good work Wayne! Getting close now. Starting up for the first time is very much trial and error. You still have a TP of 0 in the datalog? Have you calibrated the throttle position? If you have calibrated TP, then try giving it a slight amount of throttle, this usually helps to get it started when the idle setup isn't quite right. If your running and ISV that'll take a while to get sorted. Wind the throttle screw in a bit for now just to get it running. Get the timing light on and make sure the spark is hit the right spot. Especially as your using a dizzy etc. Stick to the manual for crank pulse settings, afterstart enrichment etc. it takes a bit of reading but mine started very well when I followed the tips in the manual step by step. Once you get it started it be much easier to keep running when the engine has warmed up a bit. Good luck, don't give up now, it's almost there.

Looks like your battery is flat Wayne. It's dropping to 6v and the crank speed dies half way through, could be a reset of the ECU happening. You don't have any TP either? Are you cranking the throttle open slightly when cranking? Are you getting any sparks at the HT lead, cos it looks like the trigger is working (ie you get engine speed). Rename the MSQ to .txt for something that the forum will allow you to upload.

Are you getting engine speed in Megatune? What settings have you got in the ignition trigger wheel etc? Should be OK at 9v, providing the MS isn't reseting (ie should see a low but non dropping out crank speed in datalogging). If you post your MSQ I'll have a look into it.

Loctite 542 thread sealant, seems to do the job nicely.

Thats a big old turbo James! Bit snug ain't it? Guess if you make your own you can point the turbo inlet forward a bit to clear the servo and twist it down a bit to make the exhaust sit a little bit better and avoid the gear cables. I quite like the standard cast headers and a tubular turbo header would allow the positioning you need. Should work out OK. Looking very tidy though.

Nice one Andy! Lost me already...... Last week I couldn't even spell engineer.....now I are one :lol:

Mine failed about 3 days after I replaced the coilpack. It was one of those 'great, more expense' moments :D

If your laptop needs a USB serial converter, you can have problems with cheap converters that don't support all the baud rates that VAG-COM needs. I had a similar problem when I changed from a laptop that had real built in serial ports to one that needed a USB converter, I tried two before finding one that worked with all cars. On my Golf I could see the Engine ECU, but not the instruments, ABS or central conv. Not a problem since finding a decent USB Serial lead. The immobiliser must be clear and the ignition on or engine running to get communication with VAG-COM.

The Corrado only has very basic OBD diagnostics (and pretty much all of this can be read with the shareware version but as you say, limited fault code reading), but I'd still go for the full product. Ewe Ross of Ross Tech has put so much effort into making VAG-COM a really good product that supports every new feature that VAG put into a car. I bought mine about 6 years ago and it's paid for itself many times over but I also have a Golf IV so that needs the extra features of the full version. Well worth every penny :)

Looking at the ECU from the front of the car when it's in place under the scuttle. The connector is on the right with the loom coming towards you, at the same end as the wiring loom comes out and to the left should be a clip that you pull towards the front of the car. As you pull the clip towards the front of the car the plug will slide out to the right. Should come out really easy (ie without have to use tools, just fingers). What you might have is an early ecu on a late car, the ecu connector on later cars have polarising pins to stop fitting an early ecu to a late car. But they are the same connector so if you remove the pips they'll fit but usually the connector will be really tight. Sounds like the offer of another loom that's not been hacked about is worth going for though....

Some of my fuel rail was made up with a special sealant that Cosworth Racing use (I happened to be at Cosworth with work and one of the lads offered to seal it up for me). But I also did some mods to the rail setup and used a Loctite Medium liquid thread sealant (its rated for petrol). Gave it a few hours to dry and haven't had any trouble with it since. I'd avoid using PTFE tape on fuel lines as it can contaminate the fuel components with bits of tape if your not really carefull. I'll dig the number out for you if you want?

Thanks Andy! Thought you'd enjoyed yourself... could tell by the grin from ear to ear :lol: Must get my brakes sorted though, still not good enough. Very impressed with the ride and handling in your VR, trouble is that means more cash to spend on mine, DOH!

Mmmmm shiney! Coming together nicely James. So is this what you use your new kitchen for? And if so, do you have a VR engine on a stand just out of the picture :lol:

Niiiiccceee! I love red C's. Great news!

OK, I'm on one of my work trips at the mo. In the middle of London staying at a place on the Harrington Road. Tonight whilst sat in a local Italian restaurant, it seemed as if every 4th car was a Merc? Is this just that I've had to many glasses of red / beer or a local thing. Erm.. maybe it's a local thing.... they do have a Lambo dealer round the corner :)

Your absolutely right. The learning curve is huge if it's the first time you've done this kind of thing. Keep going, it'll run, and most likely run better than ever before. Most things about MS are impressive considering it's open source origin.

Welcome to Megasquirt...... Unfortunately this was one of the things that irritated me about MS. It's a bit flakey at times. I had a couple of unexplained happenings with mine. My rev counter stopped working (driven by an MS output), I checked all the wiring, I re-flashed the config, firmware, reloaded megatune etc etc but nothing. Then about 3-4 hours later it started working again all by itself, and never played up again. Megatune stopped comunicating with the ECU, on and off. For no reason I could find out. It's excellent value for money, but not 100% reliable IMHO. Don't panic though, it does work most of the time. And as far as the ECU and running the engine is concerned when it's setup, it works fine.

Have you set 'advanced' mode? Basic Setting / basic - advanced / advanced. Or you won't see all the menus.

A few things have changed over the development of MS, so the setup is a bit different. Have a look in here http://www.msextra.com/ms2extra/MS2-Extra_Gen_Ignition.htm#ignsets it explains the differences between how things used to work and how they are now. Unfortunately the VR6 setup is quite different and its coilpack / wasted spark etc. But the manual seems pretty clear. If your still having trouble, give me a shout and I'll have a good look and see if I can figure it out, might end up trying this out on my valver anyway at some point :) I've just put all the new MegaTune on my machine here, so I'll have a look at whats changed in the last 6 months.

With such a low mileage between chargers, sounds like a case of 'unfit for purpose' to me. As others have said, they used to be very good.

Have you downloaded and flashed in the latest MSnExtra code? Sounds like you've only got the standard code in the MS. That has the trigger offset adjustment that you describe. Are you using the MS1 or MSII processor? Different versions of the Extra code for each processor. Get the latest MSII code here http://www.msextra.com/viewtopic.php?t=24600 And download the Megatune for the above version here http://www.msextra.com/viewtopic.php?t=24609 You'll also have to follow the download instructions to get the MSnExtra code into your ECU. If you have the MS1 then you'll need the earlier code, but I'd try to upgrade to the MSII if it was me, much better all round. Hope this helps. Dave PS Must be getting close???

Oh yeh, that too, why would anybody cut that off though?

I saw a Rotrex conversion on a 20v engine in a MK1 at E38 this year, producing 0.5bar of boost at idle. It was early days for the owner, but seemed very good. As with all FI, getting the charger sizing correct is the name of the game, so I can't see why a Rotrex wouldn't be very good on a 1.8 engine. Just needs to be the right one. The Rotrex gearbox is very efficient so you should get lower losses than a G-lader or a screw compressor.

Only 4 wires on the o2 sensor, 2 for the heater, 2 for the signal. Sometimes a blanked off hole in the plug. The only other wire I can think of in that area is for the ABS wheel sensor... Can you post a picture up?

The valver is fully standard, a bit boring I know. It's great for the boring trudge to work every weekday, sitting in traffic etc. The VRT feels a bit of a waste for that kind of thing, although I think the VRT and the valver are pretty even on fuel economy. Thought the valver would be better than it is... I might MegaSquirt it.... to get a bit more power and improve the economy a bit. And it really needs the headlights relaying cos they are really shocking. The lights go out fully for about a second when going from dip to main beam! Just like candles for the rest of the time :lol: Hopefully will get to have a look at Pauls valver on bike throttle bodies, I might change my mind when I hear it :D