blue95

Was quoted £60 originally, will chalk this one down to experience :( Any contact details for speedflow greatly appreciated :( as I still need a few bits and bobs making up Cheers

Just got a oil drain pipe made up from pirtek (50cm braided pipe), I gave them the end flanges. They welded fittings to the end and then fitted the braided pipe with compresed collars. Cost came to £120? does that seem right? thought it was a bit much? Just wondered what others had experienced cost wise?

Bit of a strange one, I thought valvers had 3 temp sensors in the head, just above the flywheel. Mine only seems to have 2. Is this right? The 2 it does have are a single pin sensor and a 2 pin white sensor. Thought there was suppose to be a 3rd sensor? Is this removed from the later cars? Cheers

Some twat did the same to my missus cars (not a VW ) sitill annoying! Sadly the CCTV was facing the other way, think they were just too lazy too check TBH :mad2: :bad-words:

We'll see mate.. funds are tight at the mo and its a big gamble to put a 20vt into an expensive sports car.. but I have been know to do the odd mad thing to cars in my time.. so you never know ;-) Ben LOL - Think it will quite tame after what you did to your C!

Very nice dude!!! Will be stonking with a turbo lump in it!

Quality of the Halfords Pro stuff is superb, they are very similar in design to some big name brands, wouldn't surprise me if they come from the same factory.

like this one dude: http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stor ... ryrn_76863 listed as £200 on the sire, but sets in store for for £99. Used mine for a couple of years and can't fault it.

Cool to see another valver...welcome! Looks very original, Loving the grey leather

Hey dude any updates? Was looking thru your thread again, how did you connect the water cooler lines to the cars cooling system? any pics.

Not bad....then againI suppose you did alot of the work. Had a quote for a manifold and downpipe £500, in 2 minds yet, whether to farm it out and pay the £500 or DIY. Is it worth the hassle of DIY?

Sweet - just what I needed to here as I am thinking about knocking up a downpipe too. How much was the welding?

Been a while....some sweet work going on there dude! :D Down pipe looks awesome! 8) Where did you acquire the pipework?

AFAIK it's in the fuel tank. Unscrew the big cap and pull out the pump. Should see the gauge has a metal arm coming off it with a float. You can't replace the gauge, its part of the unit, assembely. You can re-uue the pump though.

They have to please the mass market first. Think the more creative stuff is yet to come

When I took my OEM ones out they were like crispy fried duck....was surprised at how soft the replacement Pflex ones were actually. As for stressing subframe/chassis I guess the same comments could be applied to lowering suspension, fitting strut braces or fitting uprated engine mounts. I guess it's all personal pref though. As for fitting, I am pretty sure you could fit oem subframe bushes the same way, just use plenty of fariy liquid.

problem sorted - garage was trying to rip me off :bad-words: Got it checked at a reputabe place and it was well within tolerance :D

pflex bushes are piss easy - grease them up with the grease that comes with them, at most all you'll need are two failry large washers and a nut and bolt. So basically bolt > big washer > bush > cross member > big washer and then bolt. Tigthen down the bolt and the washer will force the bush thru one side. I'll try and get a pic up of said contrapation. OEM bushes take alot more perssausion IMO.

Should have been - got side tracked looking after the new nipper LOL - also the reason why I'm broke :(

Cheers fella's - so glad it's done, got so many things on these days its hard to find time to work on it. The downpipe is going to be tricky, putting a turbo on it would have made life easier as you have to pay less attention to pipe angle/flow than a NA motor. Front end wise nothing exciting happened really, I wold have liked to strip and powder coat, but instead I just painted bits with hammerite. Then again I did pflex the front end, fit a set VT engine mounts, change the brake lines, fit some goodridges and upgrade the brakes and discs to 280mm versions (bought these off KADVR6 ages ago) :D Drivetrain wise it is 99% rallye, the only bit I haven't got is the counterweight for the rear diff. The gearbox is Bens old one with the tdi cogs 8)

Prop finally fitted at (1:30 am last night)! Drivetrain complete :clap: Major mileston for me :D Re-used the syncro prop heatsheilding as the C has the holders in the right place allready 8) Some of the latest pics: Only prob was rubber dougnout on the transfer box end - P steering pipe had to be re-profiled to provide clearence: Just need to squeeze a downpipe past this little lot then I can take her for a blast!

The fluid looks fine (no discoloration) etc, but I will change it anyhow. really struggle to find time to work on any car at the mo, even my Corrado! LOL

Are you serious!?! - no wonder it's failed an MOT, probably dangerous to drive too!! Thats the weird thing, there are no signs when driving. No juddering, no pulling to one side, no funny noises...nothing.

Cheers guys Forgot to mention its the missus's car - 5 year old vectra - told her not to buy vauxhall!!! Might try bleeding it first, as brakes have never been bled. Then look at seals/callipers - I dread to think how much they will cost! Went to the dealership the other week to buy a seal for the exhaust gas recirc valve - they can only do a whole manifold - jokers!

Car went for an MOT, it failed :( The front brakes were out of balance - +30% more braking on the passenger side. Front brakes were stripped and cleaned, sliders regreased etc, pads and discs were fine. During the re-test it failed again - this time with 26% difference (You are allowed an inbalance of 25%). When I looked at the machine it looked like less than 25% to me, they guy wouldn't have it though, pretty P'd off TBH What would be the next course of action? pads/discs replaced? Any ideas welcome