g0ldf1ng3r

having recently taken out the seats in my white valver & the gf's mystic blue storm [which is parting with us on Friday :( ] I can say they metal slot into which the seat is housed (ie the runner) is body colour on both I have wondered whey the VIN's are in primer though have a look at the buyers guide I the wiki on here if you haven't already as that may answer many of your questions

am I missing something on this post?

ive got a genuine one I could take a pic of & post to compare

this is a prime example of what I was saying the other day I don't understand how people will pay SO much for ancillary items which are non functional but then people try to pay pennies for an actual corrado car if they can fecking crazy world

I have some of these in my valver I didn't realise the corrado badge was coloured though, mine is in a drawer as came off but is all black

result :D

how is the new suspension treating you m8?

spent the afternoon on sunday fitting the KUR2Y loom to the valver & changed to nice new xenon max bulbs just need to align the lights so they actually illuminate the road in front now lol

yup, shiny! though ive not used the light function yet as I always put a small block of wood on top of it prior to lifting the car lol

ha ha or NEED them cause we are lowered lol

the gf got me one of these last crimbo Mic http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Liftmaster-2-25-Ton-Low-Profile-Hydraulic-Trolley-Car-Jack-with-LED-Nut-Brace-/311067452378?hash=item486d10a3da used it quite a few times & it is nice. the release turn was a tad sticky to start with but is improving such that you can lower it gently

thank you for the thanks matt & vagstuff it is nice when people take time to offer their appreciation & it is well received :D happy to help

for the OP - here is a picture of the bypass that was in place on my valver

ha ha aint they just!! the price for them wouldn't creep up on you either, it would be a kick right in the nuts lol

thanks Neale. it will be lovely jubbly once I have aligned the light output properly I get my looms from a user called KUR2Y n here, his name is Zak. you have probably already read why I prefer his looms over others he has been very busy lately & as such not been very active on here but I do know that if you act quickly he is currently intending to make a few up check here m8 & drop him a message http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?41616-Uprated-Headlight-looms-for-2013&p=1090204#post1090204 "the uprated loom he say let there be light" :D

they also make an extremely tasty twin screw charger for the G60 :D

well that is good news to start with :) you could try pouring some water directly onto the scuttle part above the foliage mesh cover to try to test if the seal under the foliage mesh needs replacing my issue was the scuttle thing above was twisted & letting water directly into the top of the foliage mesh does your sunroof work? (sorry I couldn't recall) if it does then clearing the drains is easy with an air line. just open on full slide & then blow out the small tube in each corner. then pour a touch of water down each & watch to see if it comes out behind the wings/rear quarters

welcome - look forward to seeing the G :)

blimey cold out there ok so, in my VR, hold the break pedal down, put key in ignition, turn key to on (but don't start car) & as the key turns feel a clunk / doing under foot & is slightly audible

hmmm I am fairly sure it is quite a distinct pulse but I will go check now for you as im in the VR today (valver hasn't got ABS thank fook lol)

fitting of KUR2Y 3 relay uprated headlight loom (chuggs1 I will try & be as detailed as possible for you) firstly, I need to scan the guide Zak does for his looms but I left it at home today in essence it is mainly a case of disconnecting things & then reconnecting them, with a little opportunistic cleaning here & there lol (for those that do not know I prefer, personally, the looms Zak makes as he uses 3 relays. one for each side dipped beam & then one for main beam. this means that should a dipped beam relay fail you will only loose the relevant side dipped beam light. handy if on country lanes when this happens & an advantage over the 2 relay versions) tools required: Philips screwdriver, socket set with extension bars, 10mm spanner, electrical tape, cable ties, cable tie tidy things (adhesive backed plastic things shown in pics to help secure cable ties in desired locations) first of all disconnect the battery terminals & then take the battery out of the car so as access is easier - socket extension bar handy here as the bolt holding the battery clamp is quite far down remove the front grille taking care not to break any of the tabs as they are very delicate (FYI this is the 3rd loom install I have done & if possible the job is made much easier if you can get the headlights out but it can be done with them in place) disconnect the electrical plug connecting the headlights to the factory loom - gently prise the metal clip up to release the connector with a flat head screw driver there are 3 screws holding each of the headlights in place - 2 on the top & then one hidden one visible through the peep holes. be prepared to have a battle to remove the hidden ones! it is recommended to put some release spray on them a few hours/days earlier. once they are removed the headlight should wriggle out. there are 2 thick plastic tabs on the headlight underside which locate into slots on the slam panel, they can be quite a tight fit so wriggle but carefully with the lights out I gave them a quick wipe over & then installed the new bulbs. personally I use Ring Xenon Max bulbs & find them to be awesome when powered by an uprated loom. FYI by taking the headlights out it makes changing the bulbs a thousand times easier as god damn those clips are tricky!! I also took the opportunity to clean the slam panel under where this lights sit as it was bloody filthy - it is not an easy place to clean with the light in place ok so loom time... this is difficult to describe but hopefully the pics will show it ok put the loom in by the battery location & then feed the drivers side of the lead between the radiator fan housing & the headlight location such that it protrudes out of the slam panel where the grill would be feed along the slam panel, under the horns, & then back into the drivers side engine bay in a similar as the passenger side don't bother securing it all yet as that will be done last so as to get it positioned nicely once loom is loosely where you want it go to the drivers side, rest the headlight on the bumper & your knee so as to steady it. take the new loom connections, you will see the wires match the colours of those in the factory loom which you disconnected, & plug the female spades into the headlight taking care to match the wires colours & positions. when looking at the factory loom they are (as per pic included): brown = top left white = top right yellow = bottom left grey = bottom right still on the drivers side - there is also a small grey wire with a male spade a few inches back from the female spades, this needs to be plugged into the corresponding female socket in the factory loom IE grey to grey once confident these are correct take your time to seal both ends up nicely with electrical tape. again on the headlight end this is much easier if you have removed the headlight the driver side headlight can now be reinstalled & over to the passenger side passenger side - just behind the headlight recess you will see a 2 yellow connectors plugged together. this is the dim-dip feature which needs to be disabled. thus unplug them from each other, tape them up nicely & wedge in somewhere to stop them rattling position the light same as before, take the female connectors on the new loom & once again plug them into the headlight matching the wire colours. tape up as per drivers side & reinstall headlight next is to connect the new loom to the power source - take the negative lead on the loom & connect it to the negative battery terminal thingy (10mm spanner time), then do the same for the positive power end try to position the loom wires & relays out of the way whilst you jiggle the battery back into the car (a 2nd pair of hands or some clips come in handy here) reattach battery clamp, again taking care not to trap any of the loom or wiring in that area. at this point it is timely to review all you work for all the above steps to double check everything is in the right place & attached ok prior to reconnecting the battery. once happy reconnect the battery. start the car & then check sidelights, dipped beam & main beam. if done correctly you will see a huge difference in light output for the 2 latter :D now it is just a case of tidying & securing the install. personally I try to position the loom so as it holds itself away from any potential sharp metal edges but if it has to go past some, which it does, then I put a few extra winds of electrical tape in that section to restrict any chaffing this last bit is easier to grasp in picture so I will let them do the rest of the talking. all in I'd say it took me about 3 hours but I was taking my time & had a few tea breaks lol - it could be done in under an hour easy once loom is secured op your grill back in & then check the light output for height & adjust accordingly - I still need to do this last bit as it was far too low when I checked it last night

http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?91993-Wheeler-Dealers 34 pages of thoughts there m8 ;)

fingers crossed for you fella

best intentions eh & all that lol

IIRC you can test the brake pedal position sensor by holding down the brake pedal as you turn the ignition on if it is working properly you should feel a short pulse in your foot through the pedal