g0ldf1ng3r

received & replied - thank you

Hi All Having recently fitted an uprated loom & better bulbs to my early (1990) valver I have now found that the headlight beam adjusters are broken on each side. As such I cant use it as planned for winter daily duties at the moment :( I have looked on Heritage but their headlight prices made me weep!! Does anyone have either a set of good early headlights which are all intact? OR have any suitable donors which would allow me to swap the adjusters over & rebuild my current headlights? thanks in advance andy

nice to hear of your purchase & glad you're happy :) look forward to seeing some pics

indeed m8. im not normally a fan of yellow cars but the T5-R with those grey flat six spoke alloys....mmmmm :) maybe once I get my Rottweiler cause it can chill in the back lol

I feel your pain fella. I recall similar when my head work / upgrades etc were all been done & by the professionals & I was paying very good money for it it was very painful experience, both in terms of financially & emotionally, with one persons poor workmanship & then chasing round weakest links of ailing parts due to renewing so many others fortunately Vince sorted his staff issue & then personally made sure he produced the result we both originally wanted it was a fair few months of being unhappy & a much inflated total cost compared to original budgets but I can reassure you that once you have the desired result & you're out on the road in it the wide smile will return within moments :D

sorry to hear more woes Jim :( though I will have a go at most jobs personally I believe there are some which are best left to the pro's with experience. it may pain the wallet but often results cheaper in the end hopefully you can regain your love for it once you have had your first few trips out in it after its back up & running m8

pity the volvo isn't a T5-R flavour mic ;) lol

no m8, that is only in ariba ariba ;)

im sure I have seen someone on here who had recently had theirs refurb'd, very nice it was too but I cant recall who sorry

ha ha ha chris that absolutely cracked me!!! PMSL

not completely sure sean maybe it distributes the signal/s to the immob / alarm siren / door controls etc

that is the classic symptom of the immobiliser collar not accepting the chip in the key or not verifying the chip to the ECU the steps it goes through are kind of....engine start, immobiliser collar send signal to key, key chip responds, if signals match an OK sent from collar to ECU to allow engine to run, if signals do not match a not OK is sent from collar to ECU to kill engine due to security issue which then makes sense why an immobiliser deleted ECU would allow the car to continue to run - as it is ignoring the signal sent from the immobiliser collar requesting to kill the engine

that would be disconnecting the yellow connectors then Dox :)

ho probs, good luck & keep us posted on how you get on

thread - http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?92783-Remap reason 1 - part of the reason stealth cost what they do for remaps is due to it needing to be done whilst the car is on the rollers. from what I remember the VR has an 'open' mapping program which can be manipulated whilst the engine runs on the rollers. thus it is the skill & knowledge & experience of the person doing the map reason 2 (a continuation of 1) - the VR6 has a WORM chip in it (Write Once Read Many) so the original one needs hoiking off the motherboard and a rewritable one put in it's place, then a map can be written to it as many times as you like on the dyno. To stop rival companies copying it, Vince et al use a special chip socked with encryption in it. He also has to use an ECU emulator or something when mapping, so it's a lot of wires and boxes all over the scuttle area! Probably why an older style maps are little more expensive. With the later cars like the MK5 R32 and GTI etc, they can be mapped up the OBD2 port (which is what Revo et al do) so no need to open the ECU With the newer stuff it's more about hacking into the software thus if you put a ebay special superchip in it there it has not been (potentially) done on a live car and therefore the performance could be detrimental Plus I am a tad confused how your car would start when it has an immobiliser but the test ECU had an immobiliser delete - unless it is bypassing the working immobiliser unit somehow I am pretty confident all 95 rado's have coded keys & chip collars could it be worth asking an auto electrician who specialises in immobilisers to take a look?

I have fitted 3 KUR2Y looms now & have never had an issue with them not functioning as desired after install

Ouch, sorry to read this david :( I would probably try to avoid the superchip m8 - for reasons as per the remap thread info what are the symptoms? is it starting, runs for a second or 2 & then cut out? if it does the above it could be worth checking the immobiliser collar around the ignition barrel reason I say that is when I changed my ignition barrel I was told the keys were not chipped but they are thus when I started the car with the new key it would fire up, run for a couple of seconds & then cut out as such if your collar or key chip has some kind of issue it could do the same might be worth a try

no problem by all means drop me a PM if you struggle or have any questions

think so as mine went a few months ago - hot sure if the mechanic replaced with genuine or OEM though

as with all coilovers, the lower you go the less travel the setup has & thus the harsher it gets I have mine set at a 2 finger gap between tyre & wheel arch all round & it feels nice but still requires dodging to find roads by the pot holes we drive on ;) lol I also found that once I had renewed the rear beam bushes & front wishbone bushes the ride felt much more cushioned

hello there make yourself at home nice motor - KWV1's are indeed around the £900 price, I also have them on my VR & love them to bits :D

sounds like you have a failed relay in the 'dodgy' loom you mention couple of £'s to fix FYI normally on an uprated loom with 2 relays if one goes you either loose main beam or dipped beam - should be an easy fix potentially however, sounds like you have a better loom to replace it with as it has 3 relays - normally one for each side dipped beam & then one for main beam uprated looms don't normally connect up to fogs. possibly the wire off each genuine connector is to loop it back into the factory loom so as the lights work off the dash switch check out my build thread as that may help, it has lots of pics of me fitting a loom made by KUR2Y on here http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?44751-g0ldf1ng3r-s-VR-amp-1-8-16V-the-valver-has-heat!-amp-now-pokey-lights-too!/page25

I too found tyres to not last very long until bridgestone decided to reintroduce the 15" tyre they withdrew tyres in a 15", or at least some of them, for a number of months at the time I had recently purchased my VR thus I used avons for a year or so - utter poop, crap in dry, awful in wet & only got about 5-6K miles out of a front set I had always used bridgestones on my valver, the first time I owned it, & my nova SR - the SO2's & SO3's thus I was over the moon when bridgestone reintroduced the RE002 in a 15" the current set, as mentioned, has just tipped the 15K miles & the previous set around 13K

this is how the hoses present & cross over

I would say no they are the wrong way round on a VR the feed hose comes from the left had side of the block, as per Dox pic EDIT - although the matrix is essentially a radiator flow direction shouldn't matter BUT the valeo matrix I recently fitted definitely had an arrow showing flow direction - so it must matter somehow