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fendervg

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Everything posted by fendervg

  1. I'd say it should be the same part for a UK car that had aircon retrofitted, but it might be different for US/Europe models with fsctory aircon. The matrix is just to get heat into the system anyway.
  2. They were available as a bare metal part from VW Classic Parts the last time I checked. You'll have problems getting the glass out and back in though, but it can be done.
  3. fendervg

    Maf

    Sounds like a good haul.
  4. fendervg

    Maf

    Jaysus - some price! You'd be tempted to get some extractor fan ducting and take your chances.
  5. What type of pump unit do you have - Pierburg or VDO? If it's an early one, you might need to replace the pump with a later one, for which the senders can still be got.
  6. Yeah, they are lovely cars, but getting pricey now. I just can't afford another dependant, seeing as the VR6 has nearly bled me dry! Could still be tempted by a nice W124 estate, maybe a 280/320 or a 300 diesel - at least Merc and BMW try their best with parts availability for their classic cars, unlike some......
  7. fendervg

    Maf

    They are no longer available. The late VR6 one is made of a thinner brittle plastic that cracks easily, the earlier on is a heavy rubber - a bit better. Various aftermarket suppliers in the US make a stainless reproduction intake elbow, but this is designed for the 2.8 engined cars and will not fit the 2.9 ABV without modifications - try 42draft designs. There's lots of sites where you can look up part numbers by the way. e.g. http://www.oemepc.com/vw/part_single/catalog/vw/markt/RDW/modell/COR/year/1992/drive_standart/76/hg_ug/129/subcategory/31000/part_id/3686518/lang/e You might be lucky and a decent second hand part will turn up. I often wondered if any decent machine shop would not be able to fabricate one of these - I guess the fittings for the PCV valve etc. make it a little bit more tricky, but plenty delete that. If you look at a lot of turbo builds/conversions, they use a bespoke intake. Finally I'd advise forgetting about a cone filter and going with a standard airbox to avoid potential damage to the MAF, which is not cheap - although that's down to personal preference.
  8. Yeah, I was going to say earlier that there might be differences between models and early vs. late, but my PC with ETKA on it has dies. This shows at least 2 variations: http://www.oemepc.com/vw/part_single/catalog/vw/markt/RDW/modell/COR/year/1992/drive_standart/76/hg_ug/853/subcategory/158000/part_id/3688648/lang/e#sec_6 so probably best to go by part number.
  9. They don't light up very well at the best of times. There is a single bulb and then a plastic lens/light distribution unit that goes to each side. This is on the later ones. The knobs themselves don't light up at all. You'll need to take the panel off (pull of the trim very carefully, and then there are four screws holding it on) and check/replace the bulb and make sure the lens thing is clipped in place. Many people have modified it using LED strips or light emitting wire - a few places like Spoonfed have a kit available, or it's a relatively easy DIY.
  10. Fair point - and good to clear up the confusion. I guess it means they were installed in the factory using VW parts, but the buyer paid extra for them. Having said that, there are plenty of cars in the UK that have had their original cloth interiors replaced with OEM leather sourced from a broken car by their owners.
  11. I don't think these are available new any more - your best bet would be to hope for a second hand one off a breaker. Try the FB group as well. A
  12. Yes, but as an option - the heated leather is listed under "options", the standard features lists a "velour seat trim". The buyer would have ordered the leather heated seats as an additional option at the time of placing the order. There would have been a separate price list with this brochure. This looks like a US brochure as it has cruise and aircon listed as standard.
  13. The leather with cloth inserts are US spec - also seen on Canadian cars. They were also an option in Europe. If you can find a part# on them it will be easier to track them down. There's no such thing as "Storm seats" - they were just standard heated leather, either black or beige. Recaros, in leather, cloth, heated/electric or not were an additional option and cost a lot more, but were never shipped from the factory as standard on any variant.
  14. It's just an element of metal pipe instead of hose that sits near the cross-member/bumper area to act as a poor man's radiator or heat sink and is intended to provide some minimal cooling via airflow to the power steering fluid.
  15. Well said - I'm a member of both and I think there is great potential to explore here.
  16. Sounds like the likely culprit - there is also a wire in the loom for hooking up the remote central locking of an alarm - this connects to the signal from the drivers side door handle.
  17. Could you not open it on the key, or was that in the car? Check the wiring from the door handle, and as it comes through the door to the b-pillar under the driver's side dash to make sure there are no loose connections or rogue earths/damaged wires.
  18. Should be two screws on top, they screw into little plastic inserts in the lock carrier, and then a single longer one at the back of the light casing - the unit slides over a protruding piece with another plastic insert and the screw then tightens to hold the lamp in. Needs a long screwdriver and a maglite shining in through one of the holes on the side to locate.
  19. Hang on to them - if you ever sell up, you might want to put them back on, and some buyers prefer an original car.
  20. Interesting - I was changing the off-side Halogen H4 this morning as my low beam had burned out, and it looks like there would be enough room behind the cap for base of the LED to fit - then the control box needs to be connected and tucked inside, and the H4 connector attached - so might be a runner. Would be good to hear how you get on with a trial fit. That leaves the H3 lights either side - there don't seem to be many decent and small H3 LEDs available, so would have to match them up with some suitable white light high output halogen ones. I might be tempted to suggest a set of these as a Christmas present!
  21. If you still have a 4-pin plug that connects to the socket on the headlight body, then you can just swap the units and should work. The loom from ARZ is the internal one for the headlight wiring inside the lamp body - you might need this if the halo mod involved using the original casing with different internals.
  22. They also came with a Sony tape deck and CD changer, and some had aircon, but that was always a dealer retrofit option in the UK. So basically nothing you could not order or get yourself apart from a Mystic Blue respray. It would have been nice had it had all the options thrown at it.
  23. Would these even fit into a Corrado headlight housing? I'm not sure they would, but I'm not buying a set to find out - maybe someone else on here has tried them?
  24. Good points - I ended up making my own (2 relays) using OEM headlight connectors and spliced in a fourth wire each side for the sidelights. Then I got an old headlight casings and cut out the matching plug socket for the original loom to connect in to. Wrapped everything in heatshrink and OEM exterior loom tape and mounted the relays in a small waterproof box which sits in front of the battery. The two fuse holders were replaced with ones from Posi-Lock and left within easy access. The only failure I've had was when the top radiator hose burst and one of the fuses burnt out. But it takes time and money. For comparison, the very expensive German loom uses 4 relays, heavy duty sealed quality wiring, a relay box with the fuses mounted in the die and most importantly OEM connectors for the lights, and also OEM sockets each side (so you plug in both sides of your factory loom) to power the sidelights without any extra wiring. The one and only minor fault to this loom, and I've only seen one in the flesh, is that the relay box does not seem to be perfectly water tight and has a poor seal at the join - this can be fixed with some sealant and tape, but should not be needed for the money they cost. Once again, lack of pictures makes it difficult to explain, but you get the idea. Holy jeebus - those Philips LED jobbies are dear! They'd want to last a lifetime - I thought £120 was a typo :lol
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