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Nasty - with the aux belt gone he would have lost the water pump, alternator and power steering - you won't get far on just battery charge with no low speed turning and a cooking VR6 engine! Happened to me once with an Audi I5 engine, but luckily it was just around the corner from where I live when it broke.

Me too - once I have the cash (if ever) I'll inevitably have to buy one! Thought your engine was rebuilt previously or in good nick?

Nice - but sooooo pricey! Haven't seen any pictures of one fittend to a C yet - are you going to be the first Keyo?

Yeah, those are the ones. Was wondering if they are per side or light, in which case you'd need 4 to do the lot. Badges are, all have recently been fixed with new blue clips. It's coming out both sides equally....

Have noticed that after heavy rain I get a stream of water from where the lights are left and right when opening the boot - has caught me by surprise once or twice - a bit of research seems to indicate that it could be the light unit seals, seals on the spoiler legs or blocked drains. - there is no water in the boot (yet). The drain holes at the lip of the boot lid seem fine - the water just comes in a single stream from each side where the light units are - the units seem to be open at the bottom to allow for drainage. Does anyone know if the replacement seals on Heritage are easy to fit and if each one is for one light only (assuming you'd need four then....)? Thanks,

Tax and import is due if they catch it or the value is declared - something that size is bound to attact Mr Custom Man's attention - my experience has been 50/50 so far. As for the price, I think it's steep, I think 1.5-2k or thereabouts is fair for one that is fully working, including ECU that came with them and cover plate. That one looks like it's been bodged with a controller box as the original ECU was missing.

If you know the exact sizes, many of these can be purchased from specialist engineering suppliers.

I think the coil pack had separate can position sensor instead of the hall sender on the dizzy version. Both had the CPS on the bottom front of the block.

Yeah, it looks like they just act as a middleman with a web site and charge the buyer a 6% premium - good business model - but do you get the premium back if the car turns out to be a lemon or you decide not to go through with the sale?

Good advice there on fault finding - but the dizzy VR does have a crank sensor - I know because I've replaced mine twice! The crank sensor is what tells the ECU that the engine is turning, and switches the fuel pump relay on, and maybe ignition too. But if you get fuel, that part is working. Have you checked/replaced the cap and rotor arm? The Hall sender is part of the dizzy and can't be bought separately as a repair kit unlike on some other cars, so you'd need to replace the whole thing unfortunately.

Red badges look better on silver bodywork IMHO - I like them.

Very rarely use mine - but they work well enough. I'd say any problems are due to poor wiring or broken elements in the seat, and the only way to fix that would be to replace them with new ones, which requires the seat covering to come off.

Yeah, it was a full VDO unit - swirlpot, pump and a VDO sender unit which I had to buy separately. Do you still have a link to that source for decently priced VDO pumps that you found a while back? I gonna put the original 27 year old one back in for now, hopefully to get me going.

Had a chance today to take a look at this - no fuel at rail, jumpered the pump relay, good 12v at the plug in the boot, and no noise from the pump. This was a brand new VDO one that was fitted only March 2019, so might bring it back to the supplier and see what they can do. Took it out of the tank and when you apply current all you get is a faint click but nothing else. The little filter bag inside the swirl pot had quite a few small bit of debris in it - but not metallic, looked more like plastic, rubber etc, with some shiny bits as well - maybe contamination or some of the pump innards perhaps? The swirl pot assembly was really hard to remove as well - in the end I used one of those oil filter wrenches that have a fabric strap - never used it before at all, but at least it now came in handy! Time to put the battery on charge and check the attic for my old Pierburg pump......

Undo the smaller locknut on the toothed bracket, and the alternator bracket hinge securing bolt. This allows the alternator body to move backward and forward to adjust the belt tension. To tension it, use an open ended wrench to adjust the larger nut, hold it in place and tighten the lock but to secure, then do up the hinge bolt. If the belt is any way old, just replace it. Squeal can also be caused by one of the pulleys having a loose bearing or sticking - you can check this by hand.

Unhelpful and expensive - although sometimes the exact thing you need and can't get anywhere else. I've had some success in the past using a large paper clip cut into a U shape, you can then use a vice/pliers or hammer to flatten out the ends slightly. Any of the actual tools designed for the job are proper pricey, but I guess the target market is people who would be using them every day.

On the nail swiftkid - couldn't remember the exact name - and second that on the tools. I have a proper issue one for bare metal, another for insulated connections and a proper sping loaded automatic wire cutter/stripper - well worth investing in. The Durite pin extractors are good value and I have a couple of them, but I find they can be a bit tricky to use without hurting yourself on the other exposed prongs - I now use this kind, and have two different sizes for small and large connectors and have never looked back - they are not that cheap though (seem to have gone up in price), but worth it in the long run fi you get the use out of them. Especially handy when doing a large amount of wiring, loom replacement/repair or a conversion.

As far as I know they are just Tyco/Timer/Junior Timer uninsulated connectors if you are talking about the female end in the plug socket - there's plenty of info on the web, and I was able to get some from the likes of Radionics a few years back. You'll need to have the correct crimp tool and a pin removal tool is handy as well. There used to be a site called Vehicle Wiring Products as well. I'll dig around at home to see if I can find any for reference. It is actually possible to order all these from WV, but you need a very helpful and patient parts contact - VAG also sell wiring repair kits in different gauges of wire thickness with the female ends crimped on already at each end - they are a few inches in length, so you just cut them in half and splice onto an existing wire for a fresh connection.

Not at all - your project looks great, keep up the good work!

Yeah, I have VCDS and the 2x2 cable, so will hook it up tomorrow to check.

Got towed home by the AXA recovery dude - luckily only 10 mins drive from my house. Engine cut out coming down the outside lane of a particularly fast slip road off our orbital "motorway" on my way home from work, and would not start again, starter engages, seems to catch but won't fire up, could be fuel problem I guess, but haven't had a chance to look yet as it's too dark and cold now. A nice chap in another near vintage car pulled over and stopped the traffic so we could move the VR to the off side hard shoulder to wait. No-one else was stopping, but he said he could empathise as he'd been in the same boat plenty of times. Kudos. And to top it all off the recovery driver was the same guy who helped out two years ago when a coolant hose burst! Recognised the car immediately. Ah well, at least it has been a relatively trouble free daily for two years - I wish.

Yeah, it's a great feature - and because it's just a a different wiper relay it's really easy to retrofit to older Golfs and early Audi cars.

Must check. Could just cut down one of these?

I think they are engine specific, but all cars should have some for of protection for the belts - the VR6 part is just for that engine arrangement, but I imagine there will be versions for the G60 and 16V too as I know for certain that Mk2 GTI had one.

Probably feed from brake light up o e post, and earth down the other - the wires would not have to be very thick.