fendervg

What a class piece of kit. Must have taken him ages to drill all the individual holes and mount the LEDs. Respect.

Actually, look for No. 12 on this: https://volkswagen.7zap.com/en/rdw/corrado/cor/1993-76/8/805-136000/#12 535 805 825 D - air guide, left 535 805 826 A - air guide, right

They are described as air guides - I managed to get some from VW, but many years ago and I imagine they are obsolete now. Most cars wouldn't have them on any more as they need to come off to remove the bumper for engine bay work and repairs, or get damaged on kerbs. I suppose they were an attempt to smooth the airflow underneath the engine, but I can't imagine they did much and were for visual effect only. I've no access to a parts catalogue to check the numbers for you, but someone else on here might be able to. BTW, where is that picture of a lovely clean under body from? It almost sparkles.

I'd be afraid to start a list like that - it would never end and depress me too much. The annoying thing is I have the parts amassed and tools to deal with most of them, but it's getting the time that's the problem...

The bulb for main beam is a standard incandescent filament bulb with two wire coming out of the base - it slots right in. The blue is a plastic cap that sits over it. All the others are LED types, but back in the day blue LEDs weren't generally available. I remember I got both the bulb and the cap from the dealers, but that was 8 years or so ago. For the light for the the automatic shifter trim illumination (if that is what it is) have a look on some of the US parts sites, as there were more automatics sold there than anywhere else.

Could be yet another Storm-a-like? Strange that the badges would be in the glove box. The best way to confirm would be to get in touch with VW and ask them to check the chassis number. Just because it's a 96 car doesn't necessarily mean it's on either - Storms weren't the last cars off the production line, and plenty of dealers were still selling off late 94 and 95 stock which wasn't registered until 96. I have heard before though that some buyers chose to go with Speedlines at time of purchase because they didn't like the Solitudes - I would probably have been one of them! 😉

Has anyone on here ever fitted solid shift cable bracket bushings to their cars, and have they made much of a difference? Considering it, but there's absolutely no movement on my bracket with the stock rubber and metal insert ones after 27 years, and would think the alloy ones would transmit more vibration.....something like these, but a few different places do them: https://www.42draftdesigns.com/vw-shifter-bracket-bushings/#description

Signed up now. Thanks.

Good stuff - great to see some progress on this.

You will spend a lot of money trying to get a NA 12v VR6 up to 220-230, an you won't get any more really. All the smart money goes on forced induction if you are looking for more power - but you'll also need to budget for things like bigger brakes and wheels to go over them, suspension, LSD etc. so it all adds up. I'd say 280 to 320 would be a good result, but everyone has their own preferences and you need to make sure it all works well together. Or you could just accept the car for what it was intended to be and be happy with about 200!

Someone showed me that trick a few years back - very useful and means you have your hands free as well! Good info on the 4.8v for the injectors - I stand corrected, my guess at 12v was just some basic Google research - makes sense really as a lot of the more sensitive components use in and around 5v. I did find some stuff that mentioned that poor wiring to and from the battery and starter can cause the voltage to drop to way below what is needed to fire the injectors etc during cranking, so that might be worth bearing in mind for others troubleshooting similar issues.

Depends on how bad it is - I've had some luck in the past with spray fabric adhesive when it's not too far gone. If you can remove enough to stretch it again that would work if you can fold it over at the edges. The only way to get it looking right is to recover from scratch though.

Best place to find these would be on some of the proper racing forums, Germany or by getting in touch with some of the original teams. There was a set of six for sale in Ireland a year ago, had been raced and needed refurbishment. Not cheap though as I recall, I think 800+ euro for four....

Was there not a blue moon recently? Thought one might have turned up then.

I think it should be 12v, but measured from the + pin to an external earth - otherwise you will see a pulsed signal, which would explain the lower voltage. The Bentley just says to check for voltage level and then to carry out a flash test with an LED bulb - I think the injectors are pulsed via earth back to the ECU, which cycles the earth connection,.. but probably someone else here would know for certain.... Have you removed the injectors to see if they are actually delivering the rated amount of fuel with the correct spray pattern(sorry if this has been asked already) ?

That's a shame - I guess Topran might even be ok for something simple like an engine mount, or maybe JP, but the only real way to find out is to fit them and see. Heritage seem to have the Topran in stock. I was lucky and managed to replace all 3 or my mounts with genuine VAG items a couple of years ago, but they must have run out. I usually try and go for Sachs/Febi/Bilstein or Lemforder when looking for suspension components or mounts, but someone else might have fitted one of these recently and might have some feedback. Another option, if you can put up with a little bit cost and vibration in cabin is to go for an up-rated "road" mount, such as the Vibratechnics? Not my preference, but lots of people swear by them.

I'm thinking along the lines of replacing both the engine bay cable bushings and the gear stick side ones as a first port of call. I'll see what difference that makes after alignment and will take if from there to see if it's worth upgrading/changing the mechanism.

Two white clips each side and it will pop out - it sits on two round pegs, so should move after that. On some you then need to move a plastic slider that locks the connectors into place before you can remove them. Lots of info, including pin-outs here, but some cars can vary a little, depending on date of manufacture: http://www.a2resource.com/electrical/CE2.html

Two things that make the Campaign stand out for me: the interior and the fact that is a VR with an early interior, a rare combination anyway. Then you can add the exterior colour and the 1 of 6 etc. Not 40k special though - this could be a case of the seller trying to get back some of what they put into the restoration, and that doesn't always work out.

As per fla, replacing/swapping our or bridging the ECU relay #109 could be worth a try. Fuel pressure etc. seems to be fine.

You need spark, fuel and air - the last bit is usually fine. When you say voltage at the fuel rail, is this at the injector? This might only be 5v anyway to pulse them. Did you check that you are actually getting fuel delivered to the rail by doing a pressure test (there's a small test outlet at the front left)or pulling an injector to check the flow rate? I could also be that your fuel pressure regulator has failed. If it's not starting buy getting fuel, you should be able to see and smell fuel when you remove a plug after cranking.

The four cables could be + and - from the battery and then one each to the low beam headlights maybe? To be honest I've never seen a single relay setup, even if it's just for low beam as you would normally have one relay per side for redundancy. Some would have a third relay for high, or even two, one for each side. If that one relay fails, you lose low beam on both sides - high beam might still be wired as per stock. It could also be a relay with two outputs.

It's a very nice unit, but would be even better with some extra features such as CD changer control and proper Bluetooth audio - it's also very expensive for what it is - you're paying a hefty "retro" classic car premium. IMHO the best OE unit for the Corrado is the Gamma IV (factory issue on many cars on the Continent), which can be sorted with an aux input or bluetooth receiver on the CD changer line. I've also had a couple of Nakamichi CD35/45z, these came with either green or amber illumination, and RDS, and the 45z has aux as well.

For now, just the linkage, keeping the current box - but tell me more? 02J with all the bits?

Hi all, Just putting together a list of parts to refurbish the sloppy gear shift linkage (cable) on my VR6. New gearbox oil and linkage adjustment are already on the list, but it's likely to need more than that to get it right. Just wondering if anyone can help with a list of part numbers and where to source items like the bracket and bushings? Cheers.