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Good stuff, but very expensive - I had a bad experience with it on some door handles, where it looked fine after application, but then within a few months turned into kind of crystalline finish with little sparkly specks in it. Not sure if this was to do with the material of the handles or not....

Valeo seems to be the best - this has been covered plenty of times. You can still get Mk3 ones from VAG new, but they are about £150 and also made by Valeo. Sometimes you will also see Hella ones. Nearly all other "brands" are crap and not worth buying as they will fail sooner rather than later it's false economy considering how much labour goes into swapping out the matrix - it's not a job you'll want to repeat in a hurry.

You can't really go wron with Wurth products - they are industrial class. I haven't used the plastic dye yet, but the plastic polish works a treat. None of these will last forever and will need ot be done at regular intervals - the materials tech in the 80s just wasn't at the same stage as we are now - the only real solution is to replace with new, but not an option if the trim in question is obsolete. Backe in the day when I had a Mk2 GTI big bumper, I used to get great results with liquid shoe polish - the key is to make sure the surface is clean, then emery with very veryfine paper to give a key, and use some alcohol to clean off afterwards.

You can search for pages from the wiki using Google: "site:the-corrado.net wiki " in the search field should return some results.

3 litres or close is about as far as you can go given the tight tolerances of the block and head - would be interesting allright to see what can be achieved, although you will find plenty of sample figures/graphs for cars with similar mods in the archives on here, VR6OC and on Vortex in the US. Plenty have been down this road before with low cost vs. grins ratio returns, hence the focus now being on charging.

I'd agree there - claims of 10-20%, so that might be 210 horses bolting straight out of the stable with one of these on - you'd have to laugh - even the best modified naturally aspirated VRs with several thousands spent on them struggle to make 210-220. But you have to love a dreamer.

Surely you can get your money refunded? The OEM manifold will fit to the original cat pipe no problem unless anything's been changed there - what was wrong with the stock mani? TBH, these aftermarket 6-branch ones result in only marginal improvements without a lot of other engine work and most of the differences tend to be negative. The factory system was built to a pretty high spec and is well matched to the engine, and you need to be very careful about an aftermarket down-pipe/manifold generating additional heat in what is already a pretty hot engine bay.

Whoa - 23k! Was that the car that was briefly being discussed on here? Anyone have a link to a thread? I never got around to finding out the final price, but would be a handy one to have printed out for showing to your insurance company.

They are a lot rarer in the US and Canada

That's a good price for the pump - remember for an early VR with Pierburg pump you will need to buy the matching VDO sender as well. I think I paid nearly 250 for mine new from VDO/Siemens.

You can still order via Heritage, but you would need to wait a couple of weeks - would do them no harm to keep a dozen in stock, they'd surely sell. I found the LED version much too bright as well, and actually took the orange light out of them to just leave green - the ring for the illumination brightness was much smoother though. It might be worth checking your wiring as these later switches should not fail that easily.

Available new for not too much from Heritage/Classic Parts - this will be a newly manufactured switch with filament, not LED bulb though.

Good to hear - hopefully that will have sorted it. I'm always nervous using the jack and worried about crushing some part. For the reat I lift under the beam at the centre and then use axle stands both sides.

Once the door card is off the inner scrapers are easy enough to remove without damaging them - the issue will more likely be that they are damaged already, as they tend to crack over time.

000 979 021 (000979021): 0.5mm wire 000 979 133 (000979133): 1.0mm wire 000 979 225 (000979225): 2.5mm wire

That's pretty much it - I couldn't find the part# any more for the connector, but it's the same as the Mk3 sunroof and possibly the heated seat switch - flat 4-pin. I would definitely advise getting the repair wires with the pins on the end. If you can get hold of some posi-tap connectors, they are way better than scotch-lok.

I'll see if I can find it - only problem you will have is that if it's a single pin you will need a T-piece as it needs to c0exist with the original pressure warning sensor - I think ARZ still sell them. I'll let you know if I find the part numbers - I should have all that somewhere, but it was nearly 10 years ago! I guess for a part like that you'll pay whatever you're prepared to pay in order to have it - that's how capitalism works! socialism would mean no Corrado - but you could have had one of these: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Melkus_RS_1000

Sound, at least you have one - was going to say you can buy direct from VDO or one of the tuning/performance shops. They do fail - I've had to replace one after five years as it stopped reading.

Loom is something you will need to make yourself - you can buy the plug from VW, and it's also used one some of the other dash switched , heated seats I think, so you could cannibalise one. VW sell wire repair sets with the pins already on for fitting to a new connector. The sender is just a standard VDO one, lots of sources, depends if you want a single pole or dual pole, all you need to do is make sure the thread size (M10 I think) and the pressure ratings are identical. Wiki is still there if you search using Google site:the-corrado.net xxxxxx: http://the-corrado.net/wiki/wiki/gauge_pod_fitting_guide.html How much did you end up paying for them if you don't mind me asking? Just interested in what the current market value is in case I break my car ;)

Tell me about it - working outside in the cold and wet is no fun. Make sure you can get the filler plug out before you undo the drain plug.

There's no dipstick unfortunately, like what you might have on some auto boxes. As a guideline, the level should be at or just below the bottom lip of the filler hole - I'd say best to top it up just in case. If the noise goes away with the clutch down it's more than likely the release bearing.

A good glass specialist will be able to remove both the seal and the rear screen intact if they know what they are doing and are very careful. The trick is finding one. I know of a guy here in Ireland who did a full respray, and the windscreen guys that were brought in by the body shop were able to remove and then refit everything down to the rear quarters for a factory finish, reusing all the seals and trims - but it took some time. The worst part is if a part or some trim has been bonded incorrectly after a repair - that's where things start to go wrong.

Don't think it was an after-market on e- it's pretty well mangled now, but looks like a VAG part # on the casing. I remember reading on here that all the originals had a metal sensor housing, and judging by how well it was welded in there, I'd say it was 20+ years old. The replacement ATE one I have (who were the OEM supplier for these) has a plastic housing - I guess cheaper to make, and plastics technology has moved along a lot since the late eighties.

Finally it came out (in many pieces) - with some gentle persuasion from a lump hammer and a ball-joint removal tool! Cleaned out the hole and had to very lightly sand the outside of the new sensor housing, and then tapped it in - no ABS light from cold (which is what was happening), so that's a good start. Now to refit all the bits and move on to the other side. I was lucky with most of the bolts and nuts - the lower calliper carrier bolt was very tough to remove, and one of the splash guard ones (8mm) needed a quick nip with a an Irwis bolt remover to help it along, but the ABS sensor one was easy enough - so to anyone else doing this I'd say make sure you have some bolt removers and plenty of penetrating oil to hand. Also found that brake calliper banjo hose bolt was only hand tight and leaking very slightly - not sure if it was disturbed during all the work, but will need to give that side a quick bleed as well.

This is fun - not. I can see why the newer sensors have a plastic body instead of the metal one. Typical Corrado job - if we had a Haynes, it would say two spanners and a couple of hours - may take up to 3 days! Instead of spanners it should just have #*&!! symbols, oh, and ££$$$€€€ as well. ;) I've taken off the brakes, carriers, disc and splash guard - and have the sensor in several piece, with the metal body still firmly lodged in there - next for some heat and plenty of brute force. Really don't want to take the hub off if I can avoid it as I'm not up for that at home.