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Used to be available online from a few places - maybe try Arz-Tuning - I think they used to have them?

Yeah, I'll be going back to 205s when I get my Speedlines refurbed and the Uniroyal Rainsport are top of the list.

The relay would provide power to both. Easiest way to check if the pump is working is to put 12V from a spare/hobby battery to the terminals and see if it runs, but it does sound like it is dead.

I assume it's a US car, so the temp gauge will be in Fahrenheit! Does the car restart ok when it stops? Is there erratic idling as well? Does it just cut out when it's running/driving along, or does it happen when you dip the clutch or come to a stop/slow down at junctions? I've had some funny behaviour like this when the engine is hot, in particular some faulty wiring to the hall sensor on the distributor that wad caused by a cracked connector heating up and losing contact - it might be worth checking all your loom connectors for damage. Sometimes you also get a vacuum leak that only manifests itself when the engine is up to temp as all the pipes and rubber and plastic will expand, making the leaks worse.

I have 195 Michelin Pilots on standard wheels at the moment because that was the best I could get at the time - but would prefer the 205s realy, you can feel a difference in handling. The 205s are always going to come out more expensive and are getting harder to find at the right quality level as there is not a great demand for them - what you have there is a good price for a set, so I'd just pay the extra for the additional peace of mind. That being said, all other models of Corrado had 195s as standard, but not the wide-track VR6.

Ha ha - I did this too a while back, with the exact same results!

The other two sensors are for the coolant temp gauge in the dash and for the radiator fan control unit - not a bad idea to replace if they haven't been renewed, but also not essential if these are behaving normally - it's as easy to do all 3 while you're in there. MrInjector seem like a good choice. I would also very carefully hunt for intake system vacuum leaks. I had terrible idle/cut-out issues and it turned out to be this - check out the PCV valve and assembly and the lines that run from beside the fuel rail under the air box.

If you gently prise the top off, you'll see that there are two bulbs in there - one for the ring and one for the centre. My guess is that the centre bulb dies first because it's on pretty much all the time with ignition on as it's supposed to help you find the switch in the dark. The ring for the sidelights would hardly ever be on. It sounds like you have an uprated loom already - basically it takes current from the battery direct to the headlamp via some in-line fuses and relays - this takes the load off the OEM switch and loom, which carried the full current to the lights, and the switch and stalks just operate the relay. It also makes the lights brighter as it results in more voltage at the bulbs. The relays are probably inside the box. The headlight switch earth issue is a different fix - if you search the subforums here I think it's in the interior/electrical one and set as sticky.

Sounds like you have an uprated loom already then - yeah, I've seen orange as well as green circles, or yu might even have one of the replacement LED switches already - but the centre bulb should light up. Mu car ia a 93, and the switch I have in it currently is a replacement OEM item from VW Classic Parts.

On position 2 the green circle goes out, but the headlight symbol in the middle should still light up. If the switch has never been replaced, I'd advise a new one (VW Classic) or one of the Chinese import ones with LEDs instead of bulbs that are available on here. There are known problems with tracks and internals of these switches and it is not worth the risk of a fire - also run a relayed uprated loom and put an in-line fuse on the switch earth. All info available on here with a search. The heater dials are a single bulb that transmits light via a complicated and not very effective clear plastic light tunnel part - a common upgrade is to go for LED or light strip - once again information is on the forum.

Try ebay.de as well - I think I paid about 40 for a genuine one - a lot considering it doesn't really do very much.

Where are you looking on the web? A google for that part# throws up lots of results, first one is on fleabay: https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b&ei=RHQVXPmELobmrgSF6aiQDQ&q=021133429A&oq=021133429A&gs_l=psy-ab.3...18818.22263..23780...0.0..0.104.298.2j1......0....1..gws-wiz.q_xQ6FTQi3w

They are cheap enough to replace as they are also found on the 2.8 VR6 engines.

The ABS pump unit can be had new from VW for well over €2500! Second hand ones can be around €100, bur there is no real way of knowing if they are ok and many of them suffer from the same damage to the loom connector and control PCB that is mounted on the underside of the unit. ABS ECUs are easy enough to find but rarely go unless there is water damage. Could also be the pedal position sensor in the servo - this can be repaired - do a search on here. Cheap sensors tend to be false economy so buyer beware, and also if the ABS sensor rings are damaged or bent, this can give a false reading. If you have a chance, it would be worth scanning the fault codes first, which might give you more of an idea - it could be a really cheap and easy fix if it's a sensor, or potentially a lot more if the pump unit is knackered. There's lots of info on here.

Good call on the ECU I think - even if the foot well appears dry, you can get water/moisture leaking into that recess that it's mounted in and the unit itself is not sealed, so it's definitely worth cleaning the loom connector and contacts and possibly even testing with a known good ECU if you can get hold of one. Something is wrong if it's not sensing ignition on or sending enough juice to the bulb. Would you not expect to see close to 12V at the bulb? It's worth a shot anyway.

ABS light should come on with ignition and then go off after a self test, the same when starting. It could be the bulb in the switch itself going weak, or a problem on the circuit board in the switch.

I feel for you - those round clips that hold the inside rear hatch trim on are a pain to get on and off without damaging them. If it makes you feel any better I just noticed a nice scuff mark on one of my newly refurbished BBS wheela!

Central locking or electric window control module would be two suspects...

There should be a way of getting the door opened without having to damage the inner door trim panel. At least it's on the passenger side, not the drivers. Is there any movement when you use the interior door pull or the locking knob on top of the card? Two other options would be to see if you can release the look catch by inserting something narrow and flexible like a hacksaw blade between the B pillar and the door from the inside, or failing that, as these cars were very easy to break into by sliding a ruler or similar between the outer window slot trim and the glass and hooking the actuating rod, give that a try. A lot of the older auto locksmiths and breakdown specialists would probably get into a VW of this vintage very quickly.

Ah ok - sounds good so.

Sounds like a good idea - I'm on a distributor, but would definitely go for one of these if I had a coil pack car. As an aside, is there any real reason for why it has to be attached to the head at all? Surely you could just have it mounted safely away from the block and the heat. Does it earth via the block?

H&R do a set of green springs that will mildly lower with standard shocks - to be honest, if it's a Storm you have, try and keep it as original as possible as that is where all the smart money is going these days - or make any changes easily reversible and keep the original parts. Early VRs used different, sightly shorter springs and sat a tad lower as a result - that might be worth looking into as well.

Sounds a bit strange - I'd ask them for more info. I've never come across any reference to this, unless they've just fitted the whole loom and relays off a more modern car. None of the VAG cars of that era have relays for the headlights, maybe later ones do. The relays used in the loom are just standard 3 way switched ones with the correct rating. There is nothing specific to the relay that would improve light output, beyond using the relays in the first place - the main benefit is that you are shortening the wiring path from battery to bulb and taking the load off the original loom and switches.

An uprated relayed loom with any of the high output 60/55w bulbs like the Osram Nightbreaker will make a huge difference. I had 9v at the bulb with the original harness, and 11.8v with an uprated loom - the only other weak point would be the reflectors, which can corrode over time - there's a few different companies that can re-silver them if they are a problem.

Not sure what you mean with the Passat relays - there are no relays in the Corrado headlight circuit, just fuses and the main switch and stalk. This is one of the reasons for the low output, as the voltage will have dropped considerably after a round about journey around the headlight loom before it hits the lights. A popular upgrade is to fit a loom direct from the battery via two or three fused relays that are switched by the original loom. This gives more volts and light at the bulbs and has less risk of switches burning out. There is plenty of info on the uprated looms here, and on the interwebs and they are widely available, and even not too hard to make up yourself. They are popular for lots of other VAG cars of the era that had the same headlight power supply arrangement.