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No - the long round thing at the bottom is what holds the plugs securely in place when the locking tab is pushed over. If you are just looking to remove the pins themselves you will need a pin extractor tool - something like: https://www.kufatec.com/en/all-products/pin-removal-tool-micro-pins-35495 (plenty of cheaper alternatives available) or you can also make do with a very small instrument screwdriver.

That looks like one of the +12V direct to battery terminal posts that are spare - http://www.a2resource.com/electrical/CE2.html Z1/Z2, 30/30B all fed straight from the battery and used for taking permanent live to an accessory, but the wiring/loom or part should then have a correctly rated inline fuse fitted.

Watch out with the master - there are two types with different connectors for the push rod to pedal - one with a loop on the early cars, and then one with a ball end and a plastic clip for the later ones. It's possible to fit a late one to an early car but you need to replace the clutch pedal to take the new type fitting.

I think there might be a sliding plastic tab/bar that locks the connectors in place as well - needs to be moved to the side. But it's been a while since I've had the whole fuse box out.

There's a sender wire for remote central locking to be connected to - have this on my car with an after market alarm (Meta HPA). You can also get fob key blanks similar to the later switchblade style ones that can be cut to the AH key profile and have programmable buttons. But fitting remote central locking and even total open/closure on the button is possible and relatively easy.

Only when it dies completely - before that you will get difficulties getting into gear, slow pedal return or "jump" to at rest or pedal to the floor. They can show all these symptoms with no visible signs of leaking until you take it out - I had one where the rubber boot on the push rod was leaking very slightly. It's easy enough to replace the slave anyway and they are not that expensive, being a thankfully common part.

My bet is on the clutch slave - and it's also the cheaper and easier option to replace - sometimes you won't see it leaking as it collects inside the bell housing. The only problem is that if the slave is on it's way out the master won't be far behind, so it's often a good idea to do both at the same time if they are original ones.

It could be a faulty ignition switch as well - there is a how to in the wiki on here as far as I remember (search for dash bulb replacement) - basically prise off the two black plastic screw covers in the lower corners of the gauge trim and remove screws, then two screws hidden at the inside top of the trim panel, the trim then lifts out and there is a screw on each side of the gauge pod which holds it in place - there will be a multi-plug connector or a speedo cable at the back which will also need to be undone. Sometimes it's easier with the steering wheel removed, or if it's an adjustable one, lowered.

That's pretty much it as above - some clutch masters will have a bleed nipple on them as well, but most just have the one on the slave. I use one of the Sealey pressure bleeders that you pump up by hand, and they work a treat and also meant that you don't need to mess around with a spare tyre. I can't see the gravity method working too well as all the fluid needs to get through the ABS pump to get to the callipers.

Yeah, mine's the same as yours by the sounds of it - it definitely helps, but not light - I think that's why it's called power assisted rather than just power steering, but it makes for a better feel at speed. You know that it does something, because when it stops working you'll barely be able to shift the wheel at low speeds with a VR lump sitting up front! I remember having a MkII with PAS and while it felt a bit lighter because of the smaller engine, it was much the same.

I've never seen those holes in the footwell trims with covers on them - agree that they look bad though. Just make sure that that part# is for the pillar trims (should be available in grey as well) - there is also a different kind of black screw cap cover for the two screws at the back of the door card.

There used to be a guy on the German Corrado forum that made sealed looms with OEM connectors and relays/fuses in a box that also came with the option of relays for the fogs - to be honest I don't see why you would need to relay them though. The same loom upgrade works on Golfs etc. of a similar vintage, so there are plenty out there to buy if you check out eBay and some of the specialist sites. The looms are actually easy enough to make if you are confident with soldering and crimping and there are plenty of instructions to be found online.

To be honest it looks no worse than many other cars of the same age - and a lot of VRs. What did you actually end up paying (if you want to say)? You'll get a better idea of the mechanical condition once you run and drive - whether to keep it as a project would depend on the body/chassis condition and rust rather than mechanicals and interior. All the bits can be sources, and a nice leather interior would smarten it up nicely. For the sunroof I would nearly drop the cassette straight away and take it apart for inspection, cleaning and lubrication before trying to operate the mechanism - the risk of snapping something otherwise is too great.

Nice clean example there - it wouldn't take much to sort out the sunroof and paint and you would have a lovely original unmolested Storm.

Very difficult to find a complete set of OEM hoses new now, although some of the main ones are available through Classic Parts. Samco and some others do a "Classic Car/vintage" version of their silicone hoses in matte black with no logo that would work well if you are going for an understated factory look.

Haha - make sure you can see the *BIGGER* spark with your eyes before fitting!

Very interesting - I'll try a set of these the next time I'm changing them.

Bosch or Bremi for the leads would be fine, don't bother with the long life/platinum/multi electrode plugs for the VR - NGK BKR5EKU are the recommended ones. If you have a distributor version of the engine, replace the cap and rotor arm as well at the same time.

Ah - ok. No, actually the only ones that seem to need the Aktiv speakers are the Gamma CD with built in disc player as far as I know (these don't have a final stage amp in them as the speakers are powered directly). I run a Gamma IV with the CD changer control in my Corrado (I think it's the pic in the first post, and you'll notice that it says 4 x 20 watts above the tape slot), so definitely no need for the active speakers there. I have a Connects2 iPod adapter that hooks up to the CD ISO connector as well and I believe you can get bluetooth/aux in ones too.

There's always a few Gamma 3/4s with green illumination on German eBay - that's where I got mine. I'd say that unit would be the wrong era for a Mk 1 though - here's a guide to some older ones: http://www.cabby-info.com/Files/Radios.pdf http://www.cabby-info.com/Files/Radios_AntiTheft.pdf Or have you considered something like RetroSounds - basically a modern head unit made to suit classic cars?

There's always a good few on German eBay, with lot of sellers specialising in refurbing them beforehand.

One question on the one you bought: the original VW one had two cut-outs for the cables to pass through at the back - is it the same on this version?

Nice find - I have a few of the VW ones around, but was never overly impressed with the quality of the softer one, so will take a look at these.

I'd say the remap was purely to allow for the Schrick VGI and to do some fettling of the factory code in the ECU. Unless you have a turbo/super charger pushing more air in, the engine will be sucking in exactly the same amount of air with the stock air box as it would with a cone. The only real difference is induction noise on a naturally aspirated engine, so assuming you still have the VGI on, you should be fine.

How bad is it? All VRs idle a bit erratically, even if everything is ok - the late OBD2 VR engines in the Golf etc don't have an ISV and use a motorised throttle body instead, so tend not to have these idle speed issues. The ISV won't behave any differently when the engine is hot vs cold - it's sole function is to regulate air intake when the throttle is closed at idle by pulsing the valve to allow enough air in to maintain a smooth idle speed. Once the throttle body flap opens again, the ISV won't be doing anything. You could try swapping out with a know good one to see. Have you performed the basic ECU settings procedure again after all the changes (it's in the Wiki on here). Other things to check would be the injectors and the fuel pressure - I've seen a leaky or old injector causing idling problems. The most common cause though is still a vacuum leak somewhere, so I would check again, especially the intake boot and the pipework near the air box and underneath there. Even a small, nearly invisible crack can cause issues.