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Several threads here on this recently if you do a search - available new from VW Classic Parts or VW Heritage in the UK. If you have a decent dealer they might even be willing to order from Classic Parts for you. The badges are separate items - you can still get the chrome VW roundel, but the VR6 ones are no longer available. Not sure about G60 or 16V versions as I haven't had to look for them.

Just go with a standard un-drilled air box and OEM filter if you can get hold of one - you won't regret it - there is a long thread on here discussing the pros and cons of drilling, oiled filters, cone filters etc. and there is nothing wrong with the factory set-up as it is unless you want more induction noise or are running serious engine mods. Any BHP gains are minimal or non-existent - the basic rule seems to be more BHP = more money, and lots of it. Just my opinion - your mileage will vary.

Ok. I remember that from the other thread. Did you swap over the whole fuel delivery unit or just the pump, and did you have to change over the sender?

I'll do my fuel pump saga write up this weekend hopefully and post it in the Supplier's Forum. I'm going to buy one of those valves just to see - will be interesting to observe what happens to the residual pressure with one fitted nd how quickly the engine starts hot or cold. @dox - sounds like your old pump was really knackered. Was the one you put it in an identical model from a same era car? Would be interesting to know if it was a Pierburg unit or had a VDO pump inside. Sadly they only open with Torx screwdrivers and I didn't have any around when I had mine out.

At least that's that part of the mystery solved! My car is a 93 and has no valve fitted. Do you have any photos of it in place and is there a part# on it? Maybe they were only ever fitted if a car came back to the dealer with starting problems.

I suppose for given the price of a fuel filter there would probably not be a valve in it. I do know though that the many of the VAG oil filters have a non-return valve in them, and that some of the lesser quality replacements don't. That leaves the fuel pump valve then as the suspect, provided all else is ok.

Ok - that makes sense - maybe there was trouble with fuel seeping back down through the feed line and into the pump. But it would have to get through the one-way fuel filter (there are directional arrows on it when fitting) and the valve in the pump on it's way back! The VR is not a high pressure system like the mechanical injection on the K-Jet 16v cars, so should not need a high residual pressure. So I read it that the closer the non-return valve is to the fuel rail along the feed line, the better the result. Or am I wrong?

Still intrigued by this solution. The FPR regulates the pressure in the rail, but the non-return valve described here will stop fuel returning back to the tank down the return hose from the rail, thus keeping more pressure in the system. This should help with cold starts, as the pressure will usually drop over time. However, I would have thought that the pump priming will give enough pressure for a successful start, although maybe a bit longer crank time than you would get with a hot engine and higher pressure. The only way I could see it helping maintain pressure to a hot engine is if there is already another problem such as leaking injectors or hoses present. This could manifest itself only when warm due to heat expansion. Provided the system is functioning as designed there should always be enough residual fuel pressure there. Does anyone have the original German thread reference that mentions the VW fix? I'd like to do some more investigation on this. I've also read of a breather valve on the pump assembly or near the filler cap, but have yet to track it down. EDIT: just looked at an old fuel rail I have here, and the FPR is a variable flow non-return valve that will regulate the amount of petrol going back down the return feed from the rail, so there should be no need for another one. Hmm. However, if your injector seals were shot...

All five stud wheel cars are PLUS, four stud ones are not.

:lol - good luck with the sale - it's a fair price and I hope it finds a good home.

Hmmm - if I had the cash I would snap this up in a second. Looks to be all there - you don't need the lower inlet pipe by the way, as far as I know it's a straight fit. don't suppose you do an instalment plan? ;)

I thought a second car might come in handy for those journeys back from the breakers. Wouldn't fancy carrying a front bumper on a bike [emoji41]

That's for sure Jim - that big hot 6 cylinder keeps everything nice and toasty - no real need for heated leather!

I use mine as a daily - but tend to try to avoid going into the thick of city centre traffic. On the motorway I average 30-35 mpg 75mph, around town low twenties. So if your particular commute is mainly open motorway (doesn't happen often) you'll be all right on the petrol costs. On a twenty plus year old car you will inevitably have to spend some more money on maintenance and parts than on a newer beast, but that comes with the territory. The biggest pain is being off the road while you wait for parts to arrive from some obscure location - make sure you have access to a second car for those times.

EDIT - never mind, I missed the automatic bit! Could be completely different. The oil cooler (unless you've an after-market additional one fitted) is just a small square item with two hose connections for coolant in and out that can be found near the oil filter housing at the front of the block. Readily available from VW or a number of third-party suppliers, you get what you pay for - check the brand. You will also need the oil cooler seals and hose clips when replacing. For radiators, there is a recent thread on here if you do a search that mentions the Hella radiator for a VR6, gives the part number and the supplier. I have this fitted and it works a treat. You will also need to replace hose clips and the plastic top radiator elbow and seal, and while you're at it check or replace the radiator fan switch. EDIT: http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?91994-Advice-on-new-vr6-radiator-and-air-con-rad-plz&highlight=hella+radiator Hope this helps.

Ouch on the postage. Is that by courier? Are there any cheaper options? I might just see if you have anything else I need and combine the postage. Thanks.

Did you try getting a new one? An old hose may have the same issues as the one you have.

Maybe they put the infamous "Karmann" interior badge on and a couple of "Storm" ones too - should fetch a premium! ;) As for the chains, it's a fear we all live with on the high milers - I'm saving at the moment as I'll inevitably need a new clutch, master and slave cylinders and the chains done for peace of mind at around 120K. Biggest problem is getting quality parts and someone who knows what they are doing. I don't have a ramp or lift and no garage, so there are limits to what I can do myself.

These are the options from ARZ - both Bosch http://www.arz-tuning.de/shop/product_info.php/info/p10481_Mass-Air-Flow--MAF--Sensor-VW-Corrado---Golf-III---Passat---Jetta-III---Vento---VR6-with-VIN---50-R-000-001.html/MSsid/789lhntobdkb6ib5ef6hjemam2 http://www.arz-tuning.de/shop/product_info.php/info/p10484_Mass-Air-Flow--MAF--Sensor---VW-Corrado---Golf-III---Passat---Jetta-III---Vento---VR6-up-to-VIN-50-P-020-000.html/MSsid/789lhntobdkb6ib5ef6hjemam2 The second one is the more expensive earlier one I have on my 93 VR with distributor - check your part numbers and chassis to be sure.

If it's an early type even third party web sites charge lots - they are all made by the same supplier anyway - I think it's Bosch.

How much to Ireland?

Will be an early MAF then I think - they're the expensive ones. I'll double check later and let you know. Are you certain that it's the MAF that's at fault? It's an expensive part to replace if it's not needed. Did you scan the car with VCDS or VAG.COM?

Is this the early or late MAF? Can't remember the pin layout off the top of my head.

Would need a double episode if they had done the chains!

Yes