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Everything posted by fendervg
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There's lots of info on here. The grease is still available from VW - do a search on here and you will find the part#. The most common thing that happens is that the passenger side cable guide snaps off. You need to replace the cable then - the guide is attached to it. I had another thread on here (not sure who started it) with the part #s for the repair kit and guides as well. You might be pleasantly surprised and find that it's still available somewhere on the web with a judicious use of Google. The motors rarely go faulty but replacements are easily found off a breaker if you need one, and they were used on plenty of other VAG cars as well. The Bentley repair manual has a good sunroof section in it and I may also have a few PDFs I can send on if you PM me.
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Haven't looked at this in a while, but will play around with the settings some and see. Will look at the generic leads too.
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Don't know about my seals on the master cylinder - it's still original, but there's no leaks to be seen. It's been bled countless number of times with a pressure bleeder (Sealey pumped reservoir type) and I don't believe there's any air in it. But great to hear that you have got good results from the upgrade and are happy with your braking performance now.
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VR6 ABV crank position sensor question - now fuel pressure issue
fendervg replied to fendervg's topic in Engine Bay
Good idea - I've uses a similar trick for the gearbox filler plug before. Your way is probably much better than getting a full size ratchet in between the inlet manifold and the front slam panel. Hopefully the non-return valve fix will help others - although I don't want to raise false hopes - but it can't actually do any harm anyway. -
VR6 ABV crank position sensor question - now fuel pressure issue
fendervg replied to fendervg's topic in Engine Bay
@dox - I tested the voltage during the initial troubleshooting - no problems there. When running it also held pressure at a constant 3.5 bar at the injector rail, even under load. so that was fine as well. The problem was that it was losing residual pressure overnight, leading to cold start issues. My hot start issues were due to a dodgy crank position sensor and broken hall sender that was losing signal when the engine compartment heated up. Ebay link to non-return valve (8mm) http://www.ebay.ie/itm/271061850109?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649&clk_rvr_id=899628767453&rmvSB=true Other thread on here about the VW fix - http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?82988-VR6-hot-start-problem-seem-to-have-been-resolved-just-thought-I-d-post-experience -
VR6 ABV crank position sensor question - now fuel pressure issue
fendervg replied to fendervg's topic in Engine Bay
UPDATE - several days later and I haven't had a single problem starting in the morning since fitting the non-return valve. Always starts on first turn of the key now after less than a second of cranking. My only guess here is that there was indeed fuel leaking back into the tank via the feed hose and through the valve in the pump. It may be that as the pumps get older this problem manifests itself due to wear and tear which is why VW came up with the valve as a bodge fix rather than replacing the whole pump unit every time they came across this issue. I'll start looking into obtaining a replacement fuel pump anyway (another saga no doubt) as the one I have will let go eventually, although it maintains constant pressure and is not noisy at the moment, and will then take the old one apart to see what the story is. -
I guess Porsche may regret their boardroom deal to buy VAG then. Some hefty fines on the way. It was a bit nifty as a hack though - someone told me that the ECU would basically know that it was in emissions test mode and automatically altered the values to suit!
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You lose another 5BHP if you don't have the earth strap on the distributor cap too!
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In a standard OEM light unit? I would have thought they would need to be LED specific. Are they even legal?
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I stand corrected then - lol: - sorry I don't follow many of the build threads as I don't get the time. I would have personally done the block at the same time as the head having saved up. N/A is an expensive way to get extra performance out of a standard VR. Even VW only managed a few extra HP and some torque with the VSR variable intake. Best of luck with it.
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Turbo or super it instead. Much better bang for buck than na engine work on a VR.
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The fans run off a couple of temp sensors and the fan control module. Did you replace or test the sender in the radiator?
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VR6 ABV crank position sensor question - now fuel pressure issue
fendervg replied to fendervg's topic in Engine Bay
Interestingly the report states that two of the old injectors were leaking before the refurbishment. I'd say any old injector that hasn't been cleaned could potentially be leaking slightly. -
VR6 ABV crank position sensor question - now fuel pressure issue
fendervg replied to fendervg's topic in Engine Bay
Haven't done the injectors yet. Got them back, but I need a good half to full day's run at it to take the intake off and fit them. The fuel rail connections are fine as I replaced both those hoses with new VAG items and clips about a year and a half ago. The refurbed injectors have new seals fitted, and were tested as not leaking. I have a full report on them from Mr Injector - only thing is that Jim on here found issue with his injector clips, so I will need to check out the condition of mine or maybe get some replacements in advance to be on the safe side. The NRV fix above will just rule out fuel seeping back down the feed pipe through the pump valve and into the tank. If the problems persist then it's likely to be the injectors. -
VR6 ABV crank position sensor question - now fuel pressure issue
fendervg replied to fendervg's topic in Engine Bay
This is my new non-return valve on the fuel feed from the pump solution fitted. We'll see how it goes after a few overnight cold starts. [ATTACH]82366[/ATTACH] -
Dox is right here - because of the amount of labour involved in the job, you should plan to do everything you can afford at the same time. A clutch would be a definite as by 100-120K mileage it will be showing it's age as well. It also comes down to whether you do the labour yourself or are paying someone reliable to do it. For example, I have no garage, so while I am happy to work on most of the engine, electrics, brakes and suspension on jack stands, I wouldn't touch a clutch or the chains myself at the moment. I've done head gaskets on other cars before, and it's not such a big deal provided you are careful and have plenty of time, but you need space and will have to do without your car for longer than it would take a mechanic if you don't have all the facilities.
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What is the cree type pray tell?
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Yeah, takes me back to my early days in IT when a couple of guys I worked with who had been around since the early days of the Internet/ARPAnet used to say it all the time!
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What's the deal with the injector clips? Do they need to be replaced? Was it easy to get the old injectors out without losing bits of the seals, and then putting the new ones back in? sorry about all the questions - just looking to do this myself soon as I now have my refurbed injectors back from Mr Injector. Great service by the way.
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If it's all original locks it will be the same key for everything. It's in the manual.
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Great news - and an easy solution. Sometimes your car is being nice to you and it's something simple.
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Looks much better than mine! PM sent.