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Hall sender next

Also an option - the outside of the housing is just the swirlpot, with the rubber mounting feet at the bottom that screw into the bottom of the fuel tank to hold it in place. The actual pump sits inside that. You'll need a Torx screwdriver to get it out. All the hose clips are also one use only, so will need to be snapped or cut off, so make sure you have some spare 8mm fuel hose clips (not normal jubilee type) to hand. Bosch, Pierburg and VDO currently also sell just the pump unit on its own if that's all you want to buy, or you can buy the pump and swirl pot combined. Just make sure you get a 4 bar one. I wouldn't trust that ebay item myself, and would rather go for one of the above suppliers. I have some correspondence from Pierburg customer service that I will check for part numbers later. Having looked at the link, it looks like it might be an ok option - but you can still get the OEM parts anyway. Unless you are running an uprated engine and injectors for performance reasons you don't need more fuel flow/pressure anyway - the VR Motronic system is a low pressure fuel system, it's the injectors and the ECU that do all the work - the pump just makes sure there is 4 bar being delivered to the fuel rail, and this is then regulated to 3.5 bar by the FPR.

Hi all - doing work on my driver's side door soon, so was wondering what people have been using recently to stick on their door membranes. I've seen references to double sided tape (that was the way the old VAG membranes were done) and then also to butyl tape, and have come across various types and sizes of butyl on ebay, but it would be nice to know of someone who had a particular brand or item that they have used successfully in the recent past. The bead on most of the tape available on ebay seems to large for a start. Cheers to all.

Bosch have an online catalog where you can search for all their parts by vehicle. Just google it.

Ok. Can't help there unfortunately but keep us posted on how you get on as I'm looking for that centre pipe myself as mine was binned when the miltek was fitted. Cheers.

They don't really wear much provided the lock mechanism is kept lubricated. The key just pushes against them until they all line up and this then releases the barrel and allows it to rotate. I'd say you'll be fine with secondhand ones, especially from say the passenger door or glove box or boot cylinder off a car with central locking.

Are you looking for the centre box or the resonator pipe that sits between the centre box and the cat?

All VAG lock barrels from the same era use identical pin sets, so a few old lock barrels from a breaker or a scrappy should see you sorted. Just clean them in an alcohol based solution and then lubricate with locksmith's grease before refitting. Or you can buy the set from the dealer, but you will never use them all!

Got mine from VW Classic Parts. Hope it's the right one as I haven't fitted it yet! Worst case scenario I reckon would be having to fit a new loom or plug to it.

It used to say that in all car manuals. If it's true I've personally destroyed several gearboxes over the years!

Check the gearbox mount first. I have the VAG gear linkage alignment tool, but you'd have to be in Ireland to borrow it. It's not too hard to adjust manually by feel.

Sounds like something may have been blocking it and then went. You should never really hear the VR pump unless you are at the boot with the lid off. You can check fuel pressure handily enough using a pressure gauge connected to the bleed nipple on the injector rail.

Are these still for sale?

Hmm. That's the Bosch one, 4 bar is the correct pressure, but I have a funny feeling from my research that your old fuel tank sender may not work with that unit. What you have there is the swirl pot with a pump unit inside it and the hoses that connect up to the tank lid. The sender sits on the side of the pump assembly. I guess the only way to be sure is to actually order one and try it out, but the problem then is that you won't be able to return it if it turns out to be the wrong one. Maybe someone else who has bought this one can confirm if the sender can be swapped over?

There is a test value screen where you can see all the readings and graph them over time. Think it's called measuring blocks. I'm away at the moment but happy to take some readings off my car when I'm back to compare with yours.

Great service. I'd recommend him. My refurbed injectors even came with a before and after test report when I got them back.

Did you replace all the coolant sensors and are the plugs on the correct ones? Do the wheel sensor faults stay after clearing them and driving the car? Could be the wiring to the sensors. Your idle issue has to be wiring or one of the engine sensors that input to the ECU.

That's it. I kept mine on the basis that it had to be there for a reason.

I was able to get these new from VW about a year ago. May still be available or someone on here should be able to sort you out with a second hand set. They all tend to crack over time though, especially if the door card has been on and off a few times.

Very easy to change. You'll just lose a little coolant and will have to top up afterwards. One thing I found was that the rubber mount that the pump sits in didn't fit the newer replacement pump exactly, but it was easy enough to make it fit.

Yeah. I had to replace mine a few years ago. To be honest I think you can get away without one with no problems. Typical German over-engineering!

Or power steering fluid? You'll need to take a good look underneath with the car on stands or something. Or if you have a friendly mechanic, ask them to put it on lifts and you'll find the problem fairly quickly I'd say. Don't drive for long with a split CV boot if that's it - I did it for a while on an old Audi and it gave way on the motorway eventually - not fun!

That's your radiator temp sender for the fan by the look of things (hard to see in context). For the plug, you can get them from VW but the part numbers can be hard to track down. You might be better off putting a call on here to see if anyone is breaking a car like yours and has the loom.

You may just have masked the problem by fitting a slightly newer and stronger motor - if the mechanism is not lubricated regularly, the motor will start struggling with it as it starts to seize and something will eventually go snap. Conversely, if the mechanism is hard to move, you'll burn the motor out. It will usually always work on the allen key as you are turning it by hand and won't really notice the amount of force required to move it.

I don't like the way the C has been relegated to back of the pile on the cover - although it will be interesting to see if it makes a run up the inside straight over the next few months...