potatonet

I am today

thermostat is almost brand new, lambda is being checked today, timing is being checked today, fuel pressure is also being checked today, I dont know how to check for vacuum leaks, does anyone know how to check for vacuum leaks? PS I am filling up my water, quite a bit I might add, almost every time I get into the car, cracked block?

ok so its running on 3 cylinders when I start the car until I rev it, it wil fix itself if it tries.... could all of this be coming from the BTS sender, I replaced the previous one about 10k ago... when driving home tonight, you guys will love this, I let it idle right? it idles okish temp goes up to about 195F, IF I use any gas at all temp just starts climbing its way up to about 220F, I have a 180 degree thermostat and 176 degree fan switch, this shouldnt be happening. I get home, car is warm mind you, take out the timing light, at idle it is 7-8 degrees advance where it should be according to the bentley, Im going to test later today what happens to the timing at higher rpms with the BTS disconnected, the idle just gives a rough estimate, a more precise value would be obtained by revving the car to 2500. IF my valves were off 1 tooth. what would happen? btw Im running LEAN as a mofo and I cant figure it out... about to call the shop....

ok fellas I replaced the headgasket and I need some driving tips, I drove today to work under 3000 rpms and I made it fine, engine was kinda hot though, timing is on I believe. the only problem that I am having is that I dont know how to drive after changing this headgasket. how many rpms is the limit for how long and do I retighten the bolts when I get home? I mean the whole half turn thing isnt really accurate and I need to know so I dont blow this one as well. its copper so its kinda different than a normal headgasket. and the whole sputtering thing presists, right when i turn the car on, ~30 seconds after turn over, the thing sputters and putts, I will take a video and see what I can do to get it on here. its really wierd. Im thinking O2 sensor but its relatively new so I dont know what else to check, maybe a vacuum leak, I have heard that vacuum leaks can cause overheating issues as well, Im thinkin this may be it, once you guys see the video you will understand what I am talking about.

Ive been reading up on this too. what I believe needs to be done is that the whole radiator system needs to be replaced with the rad-tec golf G60 rallye FMIC conversion, this smaller radiator will allow for another intake to be mounted in front of the G-ladder, gotta make wierd tubing but it will work, Im talking flat wide tubing, preferably samco wierdness. the 2nd intake will go right next to the original intake, and the hose will wrap around to the other side of the charger. kinda like what BBM does on their lysolm charger. crazy system, darren is that a 20V head on a G60 block? or is that a 1.8T ina corrado witha G-ladder instead of a turbo..... Im intrigued......

any names? jake spaniar? what color was the bronco?

rgr that I will have them send it to andy, yes the place with the bar on top is still open, its called "the cantina" its right in the middle of downtown. dont go to chevy's EVER it sucks! if you have a chance check out tex wasabi, awesome food and hot girls. =-) does your friend drive a C or a VW for that matter? Andy PM sent thanks Jonathan PS wales, I am about 450 miles from orange county. so no its not close really...

could be but Im blowing coolant out the back so I got to replace it. it just runs on 3 cylinder for a second or 2... =-) could be cylinder #4's jankey wire...

hahaha you should see what we really know, btw isnt it someone that he works with?

yep same here, waiting for the parts to arrive, their coming from oregon so they should arrive about friday afternoon =-/ right onto the car after! woo hoo...

I agree with that, much more upper end though, you'll notice it when you get to 6k rpms and notice that 7k comes REALLY quickly, rev limiter doesnt like cams very much. (dont worry a very cute girl was driving I was inhebriated in the passenger seat I just remember her hitting the rev limiter 6 times... sheesh shift already!

thanks henny, you pulling the head off this weekend as well?

yes its in northern california, all the way across the country, any regulars feel like a challenge, no offense andy, just havent seen you before really.... =-/

yeah I have a breaker bar that I can do it with, ANYONE have a tip on a good torque wrench to get, I would get Snap-on but they are 350 US for a torque wrench with a 1/2" drive, sorry guys not metric over here.

keep the standard cam, my neuspeed 268/260 creates the worst idle in the history of man, very lumpy... =-(

ordered FKAM903 base plates for my corrado from venom and I need somewhere to send them in the UK. the person I send them to will then send the VIA UPS to me, I will pay them via paypal for the shipping once they send me a picture of the base plates in their hand next to their UK ID, if its one of the corrado regulars I trust you guys and I dont need this verification. ANY help would be deeply appreciated Regards, Jonathan

correct you are sir they were all 1.8's.... definitely a retrim

ok so I ordered a copper headgasket, intake and exhaust gaskets, head bolts and a cam oil seal, goign to pull the head off this weekend and see what I can come up with main reason is that when starting my car it runs 3 cylinders till it slightly warms up, during that initial warm up and revving 3 cylinders I get white smoke out the back, so its gone on one cylinder. the headgasket gods do not like me, only 12,000 miles on this headgasket and it copper too! thank you everyone who told me it was the headgasket, I now understand why you did. the one thing I am concerned about is that would the water blown out by the engine damage the O2 sensor? and do I have to buy a new one, this one has 8k miles on it if that. looks like Im also buying an UBER torque wrench, about 125 US or 70 UKP ugh!!!!!!!! :x :x :x

could it have been one of the first 500? tyhe handmade ones, all with different interiors? there was one on here with and orange interior, wood trim for sale a bit ago maybe still is.... just thinking it could be one of these uber rare c's

yeah headgaskets are fun arent they? you see the next time I do the headgasket I am going to o-ring the block so that I never EVER have to do it again!, this will also be when I convert to 2.0 liters, and when I put a big valve head on.... about 5000 US I am expecting... 2500 US for the 2.0 liter and 2500 for the head.... anyone got a big valve head (stripped) that they want to donate? :lol: :lol: :lol: :-P

YES! YOU HAVE THE EXACT SAME PROBLEM THAT I DO WITH MY G60! YES THANK GOD! but does your engine overheat? Im going to try fuel pump and see if that does anythig. or have you got a new fuel pump and it doesnt help? anything that I shouldnt buy would be of great use right about now! I just bought a new dizzy so we know thats not it and we know the switch isnt it. Im going to attempt a different ECU because I have one laying around. after that I believe Im going to try the knock sensor.

http://www.driveshaftshop.com/item13262.ctlg have a look see... about 600 UKP but worth it for both axles with uprated CV joints.

wow no one was on from today I guess its a holiday in england or something....

oh my gosh I forgot about tea time.... hahahaha what time is Tea time again? 4:00?

ok now I randomly lose power severely, the engine keeps going and what not through the revs, very smoothly I may add. boost is reading about 12-13 lbs and my car isnt going anywhere anytime soon.... I back of the throttle for a second, press it back down a few times rapidly, the thing backfires, then I have power again, the thing is that I might have power for a long time and I might have power for a short burst then its back to no power. what are the signs of a failing fuel pump? I can DEFINITELY hear the thing when I put the car into "run" on the ign switch. does anyone have anything or am I out of luck as always with this car. oh and BTW tonight when I drove home from work, the AFR read rich at idle then slowly trickled down into the REALLY LEAN section of the AFR gauge, and the idle started to really suck, the car attempted to add more fuel or less air and brought the mixture up a bit for a second but it went back down to lean after a second or 2.... once again... fuel pump?