potatonet

ok so I have replaced my tranny before, this will be my second tranny I have destroyed... =-/. this one had no 2nd gear syncro, I had driven it for about 9 months roughly and I finally destroyed the 2nd gear tonight I think, I tried to shift quickly and ground what I believe to be the rest of 2nd gear off. I have to hold the thing in 2nd for a while until it catches and sometimes it will only grind... =-/ also I can hear little bits of metal rattle when I leave the engine in compression... anyone think this is cables or the actual tranny?, I can get the car into every other gear but 2nd, which I have to really hold down hard to get it into... anyway if no one knows this then I guess the question is who thinks I can take a tranny out of a 16V passat change the gear selector with 1 of the 2 I have (the one that is available at the scrap yard doesnt have a gear selector) and put it back in my car in 1 day, it should take me about an hour and 45 mins to get mine ready to be removed... and I definitely know removing it is a completely different story than it sounds like I did it once before. not changing the clutch this time tho, 8k miles on 1 clutch is still good. =-) also anyone know of a way to test the tranny for bad syncros without taking it to a shop...? do I have to get 2 people to turn the differential while I change the gear?

henny, I bet that pulled a bit more than the 1.6 Corrola rental, btw you might want to check this out if you are in the mood for fixing your weak link... http://www.driveshaftshop.com/item9521.ctlg a bit pricey at 1000 US... I was gonna but then realized that Im only going 16Vg60 so I find it useless.

yeah like them I am a timewaster, I need everything.

check your shifter mechanism... =-/ see if there is a BIG spring popped out of a hole on the actuator thing, mine locked in 5th on the freeway once from this...

mine sticks in first and reverse... I think its funny when I try to get on the highway (fast road for the US) and I cant get out of first, just FYI I drive my car like a bat flies out of hell so thats why mine is broken all the time, this is the 2nd one I've been through too... oh well what can you do... oh yeah you can get it out by getting to decent revs and pulling hard... or just playing with it while moving... =-) trust me it will get out, yes it is the shifter getting lodged on something (2nd gear syncro) I think

neil I dont think its coming back...

gavin = a funny man hahahah :lol: :lol: :lol:

reminds me of what I did to my transmission, speaking of which this one is kinda fried too... =-/ I drive my corrado hard, maybe I should get an uprated tranny...

i like the Oettinger kit, this one kinda reminds me of that, the rear air dam must kill you on the fast road man, those things will slow you down so much. I say leave the front as long as you get a matching piece for the rear bumper.

yeah I figured... =-(

the guy with the TT dash and the porsche wheels finally changed from his G60, thought u were up to something when you had a stock motor for PVW

winder wings were to attract a "more aggressive look" according to Volkswagen, had nothing to do with the motor. =-)

mmmm a shelby gt500 what it would feel like to own one of those.... =-)

ok so um I really want one now.... ure sound effects are just driving me over the edge.... =-(

slam panel? radiator support?....

what do I need to make my car a VR6.... I have a 90 G60... I know I need a front crossmember, and probably a rear subframe, other than that the engine (complete) somone please list parts... =-/ and the wiring harness what do I need? ps... do I really need a VR6 hood? =-/ oh and is it possible to use my standard O2A tranny from my G60 on that car?... same mounting points? or do I need a vr6 tranny and shift cables.. I was on the road to a 16VG60 now I am on the road to a S/C'ed VR6... that thing sounded FREAKING AWESOME, it was burly and it had some grunt to it...

so today I am sitting at work when my friend yells at me to go outside and check out the other corrado there, I say WHAT? (corrado's are rare in california because of regulations and whatnot), I run outside like a mother and what to my surprise a guy about 23 is getting into his VR6 corrado, I stop him and we chat corrado for about 20 mins, then he turned the engine over, he was as excited as I was while we were talking... I have NEVER EVER heard such a beautiful sound, EVER EVER EVER! need I remind you this is the first VR6 corrado I have EVER heard revved with a small exhaust system, I almost had a heart attack because it sounded so good... I cant even describe the sound, its like the sound you get from Gran turismo 3 when you buy a car on the game, kinda like a little slice of heaven... VR6 corrado owners, I envy you, I really do. if you want to see something funny read my thread in engine topics... ;-)

i sat in an elise, hehe that was fun, it was very hard seats and I honked the horn in the showroom... they didnt like me very much after that aside from the fact that Im a "little punk 19 year old"...

speaking of which did he use syncro or haldex... lookin at doing a haldex with a fender flare kit... due to the 1" difference in width..

I just randomly have these... G60 Supercharger Bypass Procedure 1.0 MATERIALS (1) 2” ABS Pipe Elbow, 45 deg (2) 2” ABS Pipe “Street” Elbow, 22.5 degree preferably, or (1) 45 degree elbow (1) 2” ABS Pipe Waste Tee (angled side port) (1) 2” ABS Pipe, 1 foot length ABS Glue (1) M10 x 1.00 minimum bolt and nut (1) 6 rib , serpentine belt For 1990 cars = 59 inch long: Part # Flag 590K6, Gates K060590, Goodyear 4060592, or Dayco 5060590 For 1991-92 cars = 59.5 long : AC Delco/Gates Part # K060594 2 ½” rubber Connecting hose (11” long NAPA auto parts FM122) or Duct Tape 2.0 PROCEDURE 2.1 Remove super charger completely 2.2 Install M10 bolt and nut into rubber supercharger (SC) oil return line. 2.3 On drivers side of head, remove the oil pressure sensor from factory tee fitting 2.4 Remove tee fitting and stainless SC oil supply line. 2.5 Install oil pressure sensor into side of head. 2.6 Trial assemble ABS fittings to connect the airbox oulet to both the 2.5 inch O.D. SC boost return line and to the 2.25 inch I.D. IC connector hose. 2.7 Starting at airbox outlet, connect a 45 deg fitting to airbox outlet with 2 1/2” Connector hose. 2.8 With the two tee outlets pointing toward IC hose and return line, connect the straight end of tee to the SC return line with 2 ½” connecting hose or duct tape. 2.9 Cut 2” pipe length to fit between the 45 and tee fitting (approximately 2.5 inch long). 2.10 Insert small end of 22.5 deg street elbow into IC connector hose and second street 22.5 elbow into the angled tee outlet. 2.11 Cut 2” pipe length to fit between the two 22.5 deg tees (approx. 5 inch long) 2.12 Finalize pipe lengths and rotate fittings to proper angles. Mark pipe/fittings with a permanent marker. Remove from car. 2.13 Glue all fittings together and allow to dry. 2.14 Attach ABS assembly to airbox and return line with connector hose/clamps or lots of duct tape. 2.15 Clamp IC connector hose onto ABS elbow. good 2 go

gavin I almost bought one of your cars from canada, I see that car every day there is a guy around here that drives a white one with 140k on it, nice car, 2 bad I would chop it up for the syncro kit... :-D

how about a aston martin DB9-R... the race car... on the road near me the other day, scared the shit out of me as it came up, YES IT WAS A DB9-R not a DB9!

get ready for this, =-) these are instructions on how to replace ure heater core for a VR6 corrado, same thing as the G60... if replacing the whole dash this is what to do, I had to follow these to replace my heater core... =-/ This procedure was performed on 1992 VR6 with 84,000 miles. I am not a professional mechanic, but perform most of the work on my cars. Most shops will quote this as an 8 hour job. I choose to take a longer time to fix some rattles with sticky back felt & foam packing. I completed it in approximately 16 hours spread over a period of a week. To do this job, you have to remove the entire dash. I highly recommend that as you remove each part, put all of the screws in bag and attach them to the part with some of 3M's blue masking tape (leaves no glue residue). This will make re-assembly much easier. Also, many of the screws in the dash, attach to a metal clip. This clip is usually pressure fit over a metal tab. On my car, many of these clips were fairly loose. It's a good idea to pull them off, squeeze gently with a pair pliers, then re-install. Other wise you may loose them as you are jostling the parts around. Things you need: Bentley Manual (not required, but highly recommended) Heater Core (Aftermarket ~$65, dealer ~$170) Phillips head screw drivers. (lots of different lengths are helpful) Metric sockets, assorted sizes & accessories (extensions, etc..) Review diagrams in the Bentley manual Pages 70.7, 70.8, 80.2, 80.4, 90.19 Dash assembly Pages 80.6 & 80.7 Heater & A/C Air box assembly Pages 48.2 & 48.4 Steering Wheel & Steering Column REMOVE THE KNEE PADS Start by removing the two trim panels that cover the underside of the dash. Then remove the two knee pads. There are two screws on the bottom of the knee bar. Remove them and tug and pull till the clips release. Its on pretty tight. The knee bar has clips built into the frame that clip onto a large metal sub-frame, so if it feels like its stuck keep pulling, it will pop out. REMOVE THE STEERING WHEEL & COLUMN COVER The horn pops off to reveal the 25mm bolt holding the wheel on. There are three screws on the underside of the steering column. Once removed the two plastic pieces are held together by 4 to 6 plastic clips. Take the bottom half off first, to expose the bolt (faces downward) that holds the tilt lever on. Remove the bolt. The turn signal & wiper control levers are held on with three screws facing toward you. The left lever came off easily. The right lever was not so easy, so it stayed on. However, this provided plenty of clearance for the dash removal REMOVE THE DASH Start with the instrument cluster trim piece (4 screws). Remove the stereo, heater controls, & miscellaneous trim pieces in the center panel insert. Then remove the instrument center panel insert, that houses the stereo & heater controls. Followed by the dash vent on the left. Now you can remove the instrument cluster. I also removed the glove box. This may not be required. However, it allows better access to the right side dash interior. Remove the right side air vent. Remove the two nuts in the plenum panel, under the windshield, in the engine compartment. These two nuts are under the windshield (where the wiper and the ECU are one on each side). I was able to get a socket on them. On the driver's side, I choose to remove the wiper assembly for better access. While I had the wiper assembly apart, I put new grease on the wiper drive shafts. Now remove the remaining 3 screws & 1 bolt holding the dash on. At this point I would highly recommend that you take some time to study & map out on paper, the paths of the wiring harness & all control cables. By the time you get the dash off, all plugs, wires & cables will be lying all over, making very difficult to re-install the dash. Before you pull the dash off, be sure to unplug the all of the remaining electrical connectors & detach any wiring attached to the dash. Remove the dash. It should pull slightly up and back. Be patient and take your time. With the dash fully removed, remove the large metal-sub frame that the knee pads where attached to. There are 4 bolts. Also note, with the bolts loose, the height of the sub-frame can be adjusted. The adjustment affects how close the knee pads are to the dash. On my car I put it in the upper most position, to reduce the gap between the knee pad and the dash. REMOVE THE HEATER BOX With the heater box and A/C exposed, go to the fire wall and look for the inlets for the heater hoses. Detach the hoses. Look for the 2 bolts that hold the main air/heater box to the firewall. On mine, they where approximately in the center of the firewall, vertically about 10" apart. Remove these. They may be in a different location on G60s. Pull back, or push aside any wires or cables that will interfere with the box pulling straight back. On my car there was a small silver box on the left side, that I removed to get better clearance. Now separate the heater box from the A/C box. The two boxes are attached with 6 clips. There is 1 on top, 1 on bottom, 2 on the front & 2 on the back. These pop off with a flat blade screw driver. The 2 clips on the back are very hard to get at. I was only able to remove 1 of them. The other one broke when I removed the heater box. On re-assembly, I was not able to re-install either of the rear clips. Currently, there are only 4 on my car. This seems to be working fine, so far. With the heater box free, wiggle & gently tug it straight out & up a bit. When you get it out, the heater core is held in by 2 clips on either side. Also, my car had 2 screws holding it in. The core will pull straight up. Once out, take a look in the heater box. If there is a puddle of anti-freeze in the bottom, clean it out. It's good idea to tilt the box around a couple times, get all the anti-freeze out. Anti-freeze doesn't evaporate very easily, and will hang around for a long time. Take some time, & clean it up the best you can. Now re-assemble. Take some extra time to install some sticky back felt (available at most fabric stores) & foam in areas that could rattle. Try to route the wiring harness where it will go before you re-install the dash. That will prevent having to remove the dash to move a section of the harness. Take your time & think about what you can buy with the $800 you saved by doing it yourself.

well you know what I am from the states and I think I have seen enough jabba chargers blow in the past 3 months on this forum... so I blame jabba... 8)

hey dont be upset man, In the parts department at the local stealer the oldest man there, his name is charlie hes about 60ish, drives a corrado. Hes owned probably every single VW ever made and a few BMW's in his age, he said to me the other day, This car is so far superior to the others that I have owned, it is the car that I would have buried with me because it drives so well, he has a 92 VR6. Dont even think about the man telling you that you are reliving your youth, you are obviously a driving enthusiast and have chosen an excellent car, like you said "It just fits the bill". keep it real