potatonet
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its running but well rough, i need help please!!!
potatonet replied to g60griff's topic in Engine Bay
hence why I keep a backup ECU... ;-) -
http://bahnbrenner.com/media/php/catalo ... &catid=213 are these hubcentric?
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its running but well rough, i need help please!!!
potatonet replied to g60griff's topic in Engine Bay
check your MAIN ENGINE TIMING GEAR PULLEY, mine fried and it would start and idle about 500 but it was a chore to get it to start... because it sheared the locking key off... if it doesnt start at all, check your ECU internals, mine did the same thing back in the day, my mechanic said the fuel was shooting straight (no pulses) in so there was no way it would start. the internals of the ECU needed rebuilding because the resistors were fried. also check your CO pot, see if its broken or anything =-/... -
btw all that little device is is a heavy duty computer fan with a resistor and a metal case.... costs about 15-20 dollars to make, including the metal and hoses... they charge 2 much for them... =-/ btw it does actually put out .5 psi so u'll notice it about as much as getting a panel filter like they said.
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yeah VR6storm I know its amazing that I kept up while I was having overheating issues. the temp shot up to about 235 F when I did it tho, though what the hell its gonna overheat anyways... =-/
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ok so I have been having overheating issues for a while, did everything I could to fix them. well after replacing everything, I notice that my car overheats still, amazing huh!? I noticed the other day that my exhaust sounded kinda leaky, well everything is tight that I know, and it is progresively getting worse. I believe that my catalytic converter is blocked, not completely just pretty badly. I failed smog test and believe this was the problem as well. air fuel is set correctly but it wasnt before, does the "overfueling blocking the cat and causing the engine to overheat" idea sound reasonable?
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you can put them onto a standard G60 engine, its just a replacement charger, they come with their own oil lines. IF you want to run a 50mm pulley you need to do something about piston rings and perhaps better rods, its the same as with a G60. you throw that much boost into an engine and you need to upgrade the internals. The intercooler does need to be uprated, yes. I would have to say get the radtec kit for the golf rallye and then get some bigger injectors, this should suit you for a while. limited slip is also reccommended at this much boost.
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my bad, thought that said pounds =-/
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um negative, VR6 weighs 200 lbs more than a G60. just getting the numbers right.
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oh that is excellent
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well at least one other person understands. I had a bug and everyone said I was slow cause I had 170 hp.... oh how wrong they were.... bug weighed 1800 lbs, that thing was quicker than shit, it did low 13's in the quarter mile with a quarter tank of gas. ALL OF YOU PEOPLE WHO DONT BELIEVE ME CHECK THIS OUT! http://www.dsm.org/tools/calchp.htm
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they have it, it costs too much to make a block out of. titanium block.... makes sense. good heat transfer, strong, keeps its shape, doesnt warp. a 200 bhp G60 that weighs 2400,YES 2400! lbs with a driver and gas will KEEP UP WITH a 300whp sc'ed Z that weighs 3400 lbs with a driver and gas any day. WILL PEOPLE PLEASE READ THE WEIGHT!!!!!!! HP IS NOT ALL THAT MATTERS IN THE WORLD! >=-|
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they used Molybdenum to coat the inner wall of the cylinder on the Z, I thought it was for heat transfer. The difference between his FI and the VR6 FI is that he has an aluminum block while the VR's is cast iron, your car can handle it, his cant. found a website that said Molybdenum is used for aircraft, missles, and protective coatings... =-/ it was also mentioned in sport compact car when they did an expose' on a 425 hp sc'ed Z
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jonocos, agreed, and agreed with the breaking down part ;-)
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hey fast x, remember I used to work there, I know how fast they are I drove them daily, did 110 in a 35 in one and yes they do shift. Yes I have a G60, YES my G60 HAS WAY MORE POWER than your VR if you read my sig and you know a g60, you know that the setup described is good for over 200 hp, I got dynoed at 186.7 to the wheels, plus my car weighs about 400 lbs less that your VR (yes I lightened it), I could manhandle your VR if it came down to a race between us. on a stock G60, yes the car would slap the shit out of it, but when you have spent as much as I have upgrading a G60 you get a little more than stock power. Especially when your corrado weighs in at 2365 with fuel and 1 driver. Yes it was weighed correctly and it was dynoed correctly. I know this is a friendly chat but you have to know the specs of the other peoples car before you judge. =-/ BTW he was putting his foot down. When a supercharger sounds like a gear drive on a V8, its being floored, his sounded like that. =-) my power to weight ratio is about 10 lbs per 1 hp or very close (at the crank), your stock VR is about 15 lbs per 1 hp. NO anger at all mate, I mean none. Im just clarifying what hadnt been said. GIXXERUK, Thank you
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I heard from someone that it is possible to put a porsche 944 fuel pump in as a replacement. anyone?
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Ok, soI was heading home in the morning from a night at my G/f's house and what do I come to see but a black nissan 350z. So I give a thought to his weight to power ratio and figure on a value of about 11 lbs per hp, the correct value being 11.1 lbs per hp. I sit there as he is 3 cars back wondering if I should dare to take a chance and go for it. Well all of a sudden and opening comes along on a city street and he catches up to me. Now This guy looks about 44 years old and brown hair, sunglasses, tall guy, mustache, medium length spikeyish hair. I think for a second and remember that when I used to work for nissan as a detailer there was a supercharged black nissan 350z that the owner midified. Well guess what, this was that black supercharged 350z, and the driver was the owner of the dealership, he even had dealer plates! So the road we are on turns into a highway, or a fastroad as you call it, well I kinda started going and then I hear this whine, oh that glorious whine, I parused for a second and wondered if I should go for it or not, I figured a hp to weight of about 9 lbs per hp now. well I said F*CK it and pounded my gas, believe it or not I caught up to him ever so slightly as we dodged around traffic for a little bit. In the end it was all about this sweeping turn, 35 mph recommended, well we were going about 80 around it, that was something to make your butt cringe let me tell you! In the end he was still ahead of me by about 2 cars but along the last straight away we kept pretty even, man it felt good, though I know that people are gonna say he wasnt trying. (before you do read below) this guy owns a dealership that my friend worked at for 3 years, in that time my friend has seen this car twice. once in repair, and once just to clean it, mind you it also has a VERY nice carbon fiber hood with a nice bulge for the charger and so forth. well this car was reportedly dynoed at around 300 at the wheels, only 6 psi apparently. so I knew the specs ahead of time, good thing to know. I also knew that he previously about a year ago melted the pistons going 125 on the freeway, the fool didnt change the compression ratio from the stock 10.3 to 1, he also only has an aluminum block with this coating that I cant say correctly(malybneum?), the coating helps to dissapate heat but only works so well. smart for the charger, dumb for the way he used it. all in all it was a good race, I would race him again any day. PS. you bet your ass I called my friend who worked at the dealership right after I raced him!
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ok so after the temperature sat at 95C while driving on the freeway while its 12C out side then having the water light flash at me when I just filled it, I come to realize there is a hole somewhere, air pocket is being formed and thats whats making me overheat. I am looking at replacing the flange on the side of the head again.... first we'll have a look at that thermostat flange tho. If my car had a leak somewhere, when i hit the gas would the temp rise? pressure should cause the car to leak more water creating an air pocket, so I think it should.... =-/
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using the top 2 pins, and in a different test the top one and the bottom one I got good clean results for test, continuous at open throttle and infinite at 0 throttle. what I am guessing is that my radiator has a hole in it, a small one that seeps coolant out, I can see white stuff over the front of the radiator and I havent spilt coolant there in forever. I washed it off and am going to see if that cleans it up a bit, the test will be soon. I think this might be what it is, though the radiator is new.... stupid american made products, doesnt even fit right =-(. guess I'll have to get the one from Germany rodded.... =-/.
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what is flow rate, I am testing this myself btw. easy way to check flow rate would be nice... =-) thanks steve.
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yeah I am not sure going to test it this weekend, I think its getting pretty week, it comes with a 4 bar sock? I have a 3.5 bar FPR on there so I hope its putting out at least 3.5 bar... :?
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rockin! I got myself 1 pump then cheers mate! also anyone know of a high flow aftermarket piece? looking for better fuel pressure for a nitrous setup in the future, yes Nitrous and boost is a bad mix, I know I know...
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dont worry about the pink, they didnt come on all corrado's. you should have 2 Rubber or foam bits that contact the top and bottom of the LCD display, make sure that the minor indentations line up with the marks on the LCD display. just mess with them till it fixes, you can tell which one goes on top by getting the top bar working and the top half of the LCD working as well. also mark which side is top and bottom for each piece its much easier than guessing later.
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Got a G60, there are multiple different types of fuel pumps for my car, how do I tell which one I have my car was made 10/89 and I dont know if its the really cheap one or the really expensive one... cant get the lid of the thing off gonna have to cut it off...
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tested the full throttle switch in accordance with the bentley, at no throttle it read 000 which means it was continuous and at throttle wide open it read 1200 which means I dont know what... is this bad or good? I used the bottom 2 terminals in the 3 terminal setup as the bentley doesnt show which terminal goes with 1,2,3 for the diagram. =-/ I could have tested the idle switch.... >=-(
