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Jim

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Posts posted by Jim

  2. Posted

    They look great but dare I ask how much that costs? Big Red aren't cheap anyway - and that's before you factor in additional treatments on your calipers!

     

    They do look the nuts though Chris and exactly the sort of thing I had in mind.

  4. Posted

    Can confirm that mod works. Failed an MOT a couple of years ago on play in the column so had no choice but try that mod - went back and the MOT tester was more than satisfied.

     

    Just make sure the angle suits your driving position. I'm trying to remember but think the wheel has 4 angles of adjustment on the original height adjustment, and it puts it at about the second position up from bottom.

  5. Posted

    What are you doing with the brakes out of curiosity? Are you just buying new calipers or refurbishing the existing ones - and if so, how are you going about refurbishing them?

     

    I've been trying to find information out about getting them refurbished in a more traditional zinc coating rather than painting and just wondered, as you've been going zinc crazy with the bolts, whether this is an avenue you've been down before on this project or another?

  15. Posted

    Subject to confirmation that it is just piston slap and nothing more sinister, I agree with dr_mat - it's annoying, but just forget about it. I was reading old news group posts from 1997 for folks that had JUST bought their new VR6 engined VW, and after a few thousand miles was already doing it! It's just the way they are.

  16. Posted

    Assuming we're talking the VR6 the 'factory' and recommended plug is the NGK BKR5EKU which are available from EuroCarParts for only about £4/each. There's no real need for any other type of plug unless you're running a heavily tuned application.

  17. Posted

    A bad ISV can definitely cause bouncing revs. Had a faulty / failing ISV on my old 2.0 16v and one of the symptoms was the revs dropping to almost stalling (causing the battery lights, etc to come on as if it'd stalled), then bouncing up to like 1,500RPM, then down to near stalling again - repeatedly.

  18. Posted

    Increase in engine load rather than just revs does seem to increase the volume of the noise so that would, again, point to piston slap. I don't know why this is. This is a video of my car piston slapping away - not sure how it compares to your noises?

     

     

    You can hear the volume / tone of the noise increase as I hold the handbrake on but then release the clutch to the biting point forcing the engine under some load.

     

    If it's piston slap, that basically means the only way to fix it is to have the bottom end rebuilt - rebored block, and new / slightly oversized pistons.

     

    As I say, whilst it's an irritation, it's not really a problem and is extremely common in the VR6. Engines exhibiting this problem will go on to do many more tens of thousands of miles without issue.

     

    You may find you can reduce the problem somewhat with a thicker weight oil, such as the Silkolene / Fuchs Pro Race S 10w50 that a lot of people swear by on here. It does help quieten the engine down from cold quite substantially.

  22. Posted

    It's not exactly loud but you should hear it if you put the ignition on and have the bonnet open. It's a a cylindrical 'thing' about the size of a can of red bull that sits to the back / just behind the coil pack on the right hand side of the engine. Has two coolant pipes (one in and one out) and an electrical connector on it.

     

    If you find it and find it's not making a noise, try giving it a tap with a screwdriver and see if it whirs into life. Mine was doing the same (only running intermittently) so replaced it and all is well now.

  23. Posted

    Mine is on 75k and have started to notice a noise that I suspect could be the same. I'm so worried about it. I do not know how to describe the sound (mechanically I'm a complete beginner, at best), except it sounds like it's not operating smoothly (as when warm) almost rough and rattle. I noticed it is there at idle, but fairly quiet, it seems to get more pronounced from maybe 20 - 30 on the rpm gauge. To be honest I thought it might be something to do with oil, maybe it wasn't getting pumped round as easily as the oil was cold, once it gets to about 55 it seems ok though. I always check my oil every couple of days and try and keep in the top half of the dip stick marking. Could it be from putting too much in, I'm sure I read in the manual that is bad for something and I accidently did that just before I started to notice it.

    It is quite smokey when cold, but not really at all when warm.

    I know your paranoia well, I am almost scared to drive her, I am worried I am just making things worse just using it but have no other choice.

     

     

    What is this piston slap you talk of, sounds ominous!!!

    What are tappers?

     

    Best if you could record a video and stick it on youtube perhaps? Might help us identify what noises you're suffering from. Generally though if the noise starts to go once the oil is warming up to the 50 degree mark and it only does it from cold, then it's probably piston slap.

     

    I've repeatedly been told that it's nothing to worry about on the VR - just make sure you drive the car respectfully until properly warm and you can manage with the 'problem' for years and years without any concerns.

     

    It does just seem a fundamental design flaw of the VR6 engine unfortunately. I've heard plenty of meticulously maintained VR6's all sound the same way when cold.

  24. Posted

    Mine seems to run as soon as you turn ignition on (engine not running). Not sure if its running with engine running or not but i can check that.

     

    Then when car is over a certain water temp it will run when you turn engine and igntition off, but fans will run at the same time until temp goes down.

     

    What about the temp sender on the side of radiator, i know that can cause issues if sending wrong temp to FCM.

     

    Same behaviour for mine. Aux water pump is whirring as soon as you put the ignition on, even when stone cold. Then when you stop the car, the only time it runs on is when the fans are running too.

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