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aide

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Posts posted by aide

  1. Posted

    A bit of guidance please, can't find anything on search.

     

    I plan to change the fuel lines at the back, but looking at the actual pipes and ETKA it seems a mangle of separate pipes and bits, in order we have;

     

    tank supply nipple - rubber pipe - plastic pipe - rubber pipe - fuel filter - rubber pipe - plastic pipe to engine bay :cuckoo:

     

    the return pipe is less complicated, just a rubber pipe from the pump and onto a plastic pipe upto the engine bay.

     

    first question, do i need to drop the tank to replace these, or can i feed them through?

     

    second question, what's best to replace with, bearing in mind my local dealer is very good at ordering the wrong parts, all original, a simple rubber from supply nipple all the way to the hard pipe half way (fixings?), or the same types but ordered from somewhere like pirtek the pipe fitters?

     

    thoughts please :)

  9. Posted

    ISV is controlled/ switched on by microswitch on the throttle body, check its making contact.

     

    there is a mixture screw on the airbox but its factory set and covered by a 'tamper' proof plug, the 2ltr mixture shouldn't be adjusted like a kr, its controlled by a solenoid on the side of the metering head instead.

     

    the screw on the TB is for adjusting air supply during idle only.

     

    i don't know much more than that about 9a's am afraid.

  10. Posted

    as above get them off to inspect, difficult to tell otherwise

     

    i changed the originals off mine yesterday - 93k and 17yrs - with new ones, and comparing side by side the only difference was about 10mm in depth and the centre hole was off centre, other than that they looked great, and you wouldn't spot when in position.

     

    does sound like your top nuts loose tho.

  11. Posted

    vr6 rear bushes are same as mk3's, earlier rados use the smaller mk2 rear bush.

     

    agree with Jim, especially as the rear beam oem items are designed to passively steer, i'd bet the polybushes wouldn't be.

  15. Posted

    On a lot of cars that whole area has never been touched since it left the factory, and withstood 15-20 years of weather and road conditions attacking it!

     

    yeh that'd be mine! sure it was cheap so knew i'd get that type of hassle :D

     

    When I had mine done the mechanic couldn't remove the bolts from the break compensator. On my advice I told him to burn the bracket then weld it up again after the job had been completed.

     

    yep seems a lot of ones get it, bimetallic corrossion i think, i coated my new one in a lot of grease when rebuilding.

  16. Posted

    /\ yep agree if it all goes well, there's pitfalls tho, here's some i found when doing mine;

     

    - siezed/ rounded off brake line nuts to the brake regulator, new line and nuts required

    - brake regulator bolts siezed as frequently are, mounting bracket had to be removed and regulator bolts grinded off, you can't slip the bush bolt out of mounting bracket without removing the regulator

    - again undoing flexi beam brake hose connectors bent the fixed brake line along the trailing arms, new line and nuts required

    - abs sensor was welded into the stub axle, so calipers, discs, backing plate and bearings off to address that.

    - the bearings are difficult to get back into the housing too.

     

    maybe a day is a wee bit too long, good car in good condition, yep maybe quicker

  21. Posted

    /\ yep i marked my mounting bracket location before removing so i put them back in exact factory position, it's gotta be a tight fit, i had to use a lever bar and rubber mallet to get one end back in, that's the pretensioning people go on about - i hope.

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