aide

i found a note on my motor the other day, it was from the missus telling me to get back inside :lol:

definitely definitely contest!

I'd be interested in a meet up somewhere.

yeh i'd be up for a meet sometime, anyone else?

there's a few, but yeh not many for sure.

have heard of a specialist guy but never logged his name, try a search on www.gtini.com also www.vagdrivers.net

i'd presume your bushes are tired yeh, i understand the rear axle is designed to passively 'steer', or flex sideways with the back end

i got crashiness on mine before i started the rebuild, found my bushes were hanging together.

must be the bush itself, i.e. the outer case and not the inner bolt slot

do you know about the pretensioning as well?

at last got chance to bolt the freshly painted rear beam on, everything else to follow this weekend :)

nice one, great to see another one getting picked up by an enthusiast :salute:

something other than kjet to mess around with too!

yeh haha, i had to crank for maybe two or three minutes before it would stutter into life, it would then be fine until left to stand for any lenght of time again

its obviously not ideal as its ignoring an issue, but it may get you going

have you tried that 'easy start' stuff it's like aerated fuel you spray round the air box inlet when cranking? it's like coke for cars :grin:

saw this advertised in store today and was kinda tempted, i won't bother now :lol:

that's quite a long time, i know my 2nd valver used to be cranking fest to start if even left for a week, if left over holidays i found my valver used to start better from cold with a charged battery or with helping hand from jump leads.

there's an accumulator on valvers immediately after the fuel pump which is supposed to maintain system pressure when the pump isn't running, these fail over time and mean pressure is gradually lost, this means the pump has to work a little harder initially, and even though they're bullet proof I always felt age must have compromised it's performance a little, i was too skint in those days to replace everything like that and just lived with it, a little more battery juice seemed to do the trick in any case :grin:

there's ways of testing the pressure but you need a pressure guage, a valved T piece and some fuel pipe, without these the only way to check you have pressure is to listen to the pump prime on ignition then slightly undo any of the banjos on top of the metering head or preferably the injector connector, fuel should surge out, don't do it with fag in hand though.

yeah the hall senders can be problematic, my last one had cracked too

fuel side of things can be even more complex am afraid, valver injectors are mechanical and need very high pressure to open, the cold start is solenoid controlled so doesn't, my guess is you either have an air lock in the metering head or lack of pressure, if you haven't tampered with the fuel set up i'd go with the latter, when was the last time you had it running?

nope no pics am afraid, do a google image search you never know what you'll turf up, pretty sure its diagrammatically shown in haynes if you have one.

sorry no time to read back, have you checked you have an earth from the head/ block?

your motor looks sweet, good work too with all those jobs in two weeks.

where'd you get those ramps, could do with some of those myself!?

oooooh new shoes :D nice

2nd coat of paint on rear beam :grin:

speedlines by a country mile, not a fan of solitudes at all.

1st coat of paint on rear beam following shotblasting

hmmmm still really liking that wheel colour on your colour motor 8) looking good

sprayed rear beam mount and then bolted both back on.

then removed old leaking shocks and cleaned what must have been 17 yrs's of road grime from arches, came up really well except for a bit of rust around top mount positions, soooo treated that with rust eater and wire brush, couple sprays of black then sealer and jobs a good un.

everythings now ready for return of beam and the parts.

not a lot, too busy lazing in the sun 8)

did manage to disconnect and remove the offside rear beam mounting strut, and then prepare it for painting tomorrow.

struggling for time so not a lot recently, but today managed to drop my rear beam off for sandblasting, ordered 300 squids worth of rear beam and brake bits, assembled callipers, carriers and pads, and then degreased, brushed and painted my stub axles...

checked out my freshly delivered kw's :grin:

yeh good effort :salute: my old g reg valver was that colour, has it lived in cornwall/ devon before?

yeh i paid £115 ish, i took my old one apart and found the spindle had disintegrated, it was so bad i could hear it humming through the heater matrix with the engine on :D

as kev notes the 'yellow' temp sender is now 'black'.

one thing i've never got to the bottom of is whether the pump is supposed to continue for a period after ignition off, mine doesn't, would prefer if it did to circulate water round the head, it does on mk3's i'm told...