
aide
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Posts posted by aide
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yeh fuel suppy pressure should be 5 - 6.
as toad asked, where did he measure it, to or from the metering head?
there's a system pressure regulator on the metering head, pressure is adjusted by washer/ shims, have read it's difficult to adjust though.
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did a proper seats out hoover from boot to cabin.
found £2.30 and a nearly new incredible hulk pencil :grin:
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I just think it gives people the chance to see what the thread is concentrating on at that moment. :nuts:got my attention, paint and seats look sweet great job 8)
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afaik it means 'as far as i know' :D
you beat me too it :grin:only just, we're all too eager to help round here :D
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there was definitely a thread on here about it, the guy had used a spare bumper to cut the plate recess out, and placed the plate recess the other way round in the other bumper, he'd then plastic stictched the recess in, filled, sanded and painted. i think the same guy had just filled the recess with filler before, but it ends up cracking and looking rhubarb.
i like the mod, but don't like where the plate ends up.
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all above + some handy tips;
- have a long screw driver handy which is either magnetic tipped, or wrap some gaffer tape the wrong way round the screwdriver so you can lift the plugs from the recess once they're unscrewed, even better get one of those long reach grabber things
- when putting new plugs back in use a tiny piece of card to wedge the plug into the socket so it doesn't just drop into the plug hole.
- only hand tighten at first so you don't thread the head before using the wrench to tighten fully, and don't overtighten, i only do an additional half turn once tight!
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spray painted fuel filter bracket and fitted new fuel filter with new jubillee clips, went out for a quick drive before rain arrived
noticed my rear offside shock is leaking, oh well, gonna take it off the road when my tax runs out at the end of the month and totally rebuld the rear axle and brakes, have to see if i can stretch to a rear anti roll bar and kw's at the same time...
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took the fuel filter off for changing, found the bracket was rusted and filter clip seized on, so dismantled it, wire brushed and applied rust eater ready for spray painting and underbody sealing with a new fuel filter tomorrow....... half hour job? :nono:
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this motor is getting better and better, you've done/ doing* everything i want to do, just twenty times quicker!
*except the possible red calipers hehe
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hey nice 8) black is best eh, from my old stomping ground too, i used to live in exeter then okeampton and used to be round 'nabbot' a lot.
is it a replacement speed controller unit you got then?
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sorry there, didn't manage to get round to this yesterday, will get it done after work for sure this evening
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+1 for black as above, unless calipers are brembo type i think red looks a wee bit try hard
still diggin your wheels man 8)
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I was thinking that thought but unsure what the difference is between those - is it only the "coned" fitting that differs?.i'll get a pic tomorrow of my mk4 hoses for you :salute:
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try paisleyfreight, i've used them for wheels (£25) and a gearbox (£36) to and from NI to England, so good value imo.
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for those living in norn ireland its even more expensive, due to the cost of getting the stuff here :? rip off britain.
off topic but re brown, we didn't vote for this clunking idiot as PM, but a majority did vote for labour and browns *miracle* debt based economy, and we're now gonna pay as the governement purposely scews inflation, and the bank of england turn on the printy printy money press, debase sterling and in the process make us all poorer - more of the same, no thanks :mad2:
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They're a sealed unit, you need to unscrew the fuse on the top of the unit and remove, then carefully cut away the rubber seal round the base, you'll then have to lever the tabs on all four sides then pull the innards out.
With a bit of luck you may be able to see a loose connection, otherwise you'll need to be a dab hand at electronics to diagnose.... all assuming that's where the problem is of course!
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read a few posts on hear which said they could be removed, but that it got noisier without
my fixed one has most the guaze missing and makes a whistling noise
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i'll be honest i don't know the detailed workings of the controller, but i've had the lid of my controller before and there's maybe four or five relays which i'd assume all switch a dedicated fan speed, or contribute towards a speed, e.g. relay 1 switches speed one, relay 1 & 2 both contribute to speed 2, relay 3 is dedictaed speed three, relay 4 is switched by the ECU/ air con unit etc
have you tried VAGCOM to diagnose any fault codes?
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i paid £1500 for a two owner k reg with 92k on the clocks, very straight, just a few dints and no sill or arch rust, had three electric faults two of which were easy fixes, the third i'm waiting for summer.... sunroof :)
tbh mines not a daily driver, so can fix the big issues as they arise like chains, matrix, head and bore wear.
if it is a daily, then i'd pay more for something with the usual issues attended to, £2 - £3k
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well it sounds like you've diagnosed the fault already, a faulty relay in the fan control unit, you may need a replacement, about £20 to £25k for a second hand unit.
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I'm struggling with which plug the rad sender plug is!if it's stage 1 & 2 problems you realy should try the radiator sender first, this connector can be bridged in similar fashion, its mentioned in the first post
standing in front of bonnet, the rad sender is on the right hand and engine bay side of the radiator about half way up near the battery, it may not be triangle shaped, depends upon your car age, mine was a pain to remove due to wires in the way and fat fingers
oh yeh, you'd be better using wire than a paper clip, preferably one end with a spade connector to ensure good connection!
The "what I did to my Corrado today" thread...
in General Car Chat
Posted
tinted the rear lights red, not lacquered yet but looking loads better already.