aide

ok cheers guys/ gals, will keep the clips and tightening in mind.... won't be lying on the ground anytime soon though! brrrrrrrhhh cold :sad:

yeh just looking for a second hand one at the minute, and will strip and re-assemble it, I'll get ALL the fixings now - so cheers for the heads up - am hoping I can get away with keeping the stub axles, have new bolts and washers for that though

not totally sold on uprated bushes yet, read on here some people prefer the predictable back end with standards :D

only have the calipers, discs, pads, bearing kit, shields, hoses and fixings at minute, but yeh hoping to go for uprated bushes and a rear anti roll bar too

great work, am actually collecting all parts for a rear beam rebuild and mk4 calipers myself, handy having those pics!

this is a real mystery for sure :scratch: let us know how you get on

oh man a run of schitty luck indeed, really sad to read after all your efforts :(

echo what others have said to try and clear your head for a few weeks, you'll find the fix-up mojo following a break from it

yeh we'd hope it was a temporary repair, but that will probably be it until the next round of planned maintenance/ repair occurs!

if you think the roads in the UK are bad, you should see some of them in the republic!

yeh but does your insurer know its cat d?!

my old valver was an uneconomical repair/ cat d, sold it no problem as was only cosmetic damage, but was a little cheaper than i would have liked :(

gonna be interesting to find out that's for sure :dorky: i can't see prices dropping lower than a £1-1,5k for vrs as have seen recently, but cant see prices rising over next few years either, i reckon they'll start a steady ascent after that, loads depends on how rare they become too

doesn't look an ideal job granted, but its what cold lay tarmac is used for, main aim of the guy doing this is to prevent frost penetration into the bearing course and sub base of the road construction, thereby avoiding more significant and more difficult to repair damage caused by frost heave had the hole been left open during this cold snap. hopefully you saw him drying the hole with a blow torch before he pressed the tarmac back in.

yep the cam pulley can only go one way, there's a wedge/ groove on the cam and pulley; that said others on here have seen the wedge thing shear off which could place the timing out.

am sure you have done already, pulley has two marks, one 'cam side' which has ' - ' which line level with head, another inlet on the other side ' | ' which lines vertically with the triangle on the cam cover, check they're both in line when cylinder 1 when at TDC tested through the spark plug hole.

very very nice sir :salute:

what colour is that? onyx metallic?

Are both your hall sender and earth straps connected too?

Yes, you need someone cranking when easy start is sprayed.

you spray easy start around the airbox/ front offside headlight not into the chambers direct - you need the easy start (fuel) to be suspended as a spray!!

have you actually checked for spark at the plugs?

nice, anything special hidden under that bonnet intake?

oh, and welcome along :D

oil & filter change and went for a blast :)

i heard the 'in gear' accelleration were better, or equivalent to the porsche 911 around at the time - 20-40, 40-60 sort of range - though it didn't get near the 9-11 in terms of outright 0-60 :dorky:

could be complete bollocks of course

i've had this problem with my old valvers more times than i can remember, particularly when they weren't started for a few days/ weeks :?

most times just cranking cranking cranking and a squirt of 'easy start' got them going, and they fine afterwards, other times it was fuel pressure related, for instance if the fuel accumulator membrane is ruptured the system looses pressure and the pump struggles to deliver the injector supply volume (pressure) from the cranking battery supply alone, you'll get a petrolly smell from the 5th injector alone which is retriggered with every starting attempt, another time it was a faulty warm up regulator that was over regulating the supply

the timing sounds fine, but cant load that vid for some reason, i'd agree trying a dash of petrol if you dont have any easy start to hand

the joys of mechanical injection eh :D i kinda like it, but you need to get yourself a fuel pressure guage so you can test it, and a book called 'how to tune and modify bosch fuel injection systems' or similar title :salute:

i've only ever been in a car when snow chains are used on compressed snow/ ice/ slush on roads and tracks not on drifting snow, but sure they'd be a good investment, you can only crawl in them - like max 20-30mph or something - and they make a racket!

hey welcome along :wave: fair few of you Romanian guys on here now

nice colour orange :D

thanks to stueyb and kadvr6 for various bits and wheels respectvely, easy to deal with and all stuff turned up as described :salute:

not getting the lady name references :scratch: but all good stuff and you must be getting nervous about cranking it over for the first time now Bridgette :D

the age old caliper seize scenario eh, had to get rescued due to that myself, good to see someone else putting their folding ladder to good use; mines used as a bench with some plywood worktop :D liking the manifold too, looks a lot like one i had :)

that looks brilliant, really good job 8)

liking the brake set up too, those discs look great

changing sensors straightforward enough, tho they can be stuck in the housing fairly solid, have cut hands as testament :D

to change the thermostat you need to pull the housing off which is still straightforward, just a little more involved

easy enough to drain down and refill, and good opportunity to do other stuff like rad thermoswitch and aux water pump