P3rks

I have. PM'd.

Magenx exhaust is sold. As is the G60 fuel rail. Thanks

Are they 5x112?

Thanks for the heads up.. Not clean enough for my liking though. Defeats the object. :(

I'm just renewing all my solid brake pipes with kunifer. I have a brand new but old roll which has been stored in my cellar for a few years, its faded in colour and a little harder compared to a brand new roll I just bought. Will the older stuff still be safe to use?

I'm after a late spec bonnet, in Dragon Green. As perfect as possible.

Here you go... The Golf light internals are much wider, they won't fit the Corrado housing at all - It possibly might fit with me hacking the casing up, something I'm reluctant to do. On another note, it's all wired up and working (albeit a faulty rear sensor). The golf light works as it should. but the Corrado one just stays on constantly; dimly too. I purchased a Passat B4 light from eBay with the required loom, part number: 3A0 919 235A - But it operates in the exact same way as the Corrado light, so I'm guessing I've got the wrong; early style Passat light? What you guys think?. The late style ABS lights are impossible to find.

Last night about 4.30am myself and my girlfriend woke up to a big bang. Then someone shouting "HIT IT AGAIN" then another bang. My bedroom is on the front of the house, ground floor and the noises were really close so I had a look out of the windows, checked the car etc and all seemed fine. We regularly hear ****heads and the like knocking bins over, we have a bus stop right outside our window; plus living in a youthful are we are accustomed to loud noises and just general ****head behaviour in the early hours of the morning - I generally don't mind it; I was young once and did stupid (harmless) things in my past when boozed up. Then this morning I go outside and find this: Yep, my heart sank. Crap pictures I know. Two dents on the bonnet and two scuffs down the side of the car where it looks like the branch broke, flew off and hit the side. The dents are bad enough to warrant a replacement bonnet, which more than likely means subsequently, a front end respray blending the colour correctly. My mothers car was on the drive too, untouched. So someones obviously done a magpie; seen a shiny car and went for it. The cars been off the road since December and I've worked on every spare day I've had so who ever did this will have seen me pour blood sweat and tears into it. So why do it? I am really starting to lose faith, not only in owning a nice car, but also in the human race. The older I become, the more experienced I am; the more I hate other people. What is the point.

Anyone? I need heeellllpppppp! :puppydogeyes:

Yep, I've already been in contact with him, but he can't remember the specifics. :(

Hello, I am in the process of fitting a Teves 20 ABS system (from a late 97 Golf VR6) into my late 1993 Corrado VR6 It's all plumbed in, it's just wiring at the fusebox side of things which I'm getting confused with. There are essentially 4 wires coming from the ABS system to the fusebox which then splits a little. So there are 6 wires in total. Here are the 4 wires coming from the ABS looms ECU connection to the fusebox. These have been physically traced and also confirmed with wiring diagrams. grey/white - Pin 16 grey/white - Pin 13 black/red - Pin 12 black/yellow - Pin 23 Now, at the fusebox side of things; grey/white (Pin 16) - Goes to fusebox plug W2 which I believe is for the ABS warning light? grey/white (Pin 13) - Is the diagnostic connector which goes to the diagnostic block behind the centre console? black/red (Pin 12) - Goes to fusebox plug W4 which is connected to the brake light switch - There is also a same coloured wire coming out at the W4 connection going to a single female teminal. black/yellow (Pin 23) - Now I think this goes to fusebox plug D7 (via a single terminal I believe) which is an ignition live. Connected to the W plug is a blue/white wire (W1) which is a VSS feed and plugs into the VSS block. Now here is where it gets confusing for me.. black/red not only goes from ABS Pin 12, to W4 but also from W4 to a single female terminal. On the wiring diagram (see below) it goes to a signal point terminal T1 - but what is T1 and where does it come from? I can't find it on any diagram I've found. What kind of feed is it? Also, on the wiring diagram; black/yellow goes from ABS Pin 23 to a terminal (TV18) which then goes to D3 and D7. I believe both D3 and D7 are ignition lives. Do I need two feeds or will just one suffice? My original ABS system took the ignition feed direct from D7. Hello, I am in the process of fitting a Teves 20 ABS system (from a late 97 Golf VR6) into my late 1993 Corrado VR6 It's all plumbed in, it's just wiring at the fusebox side of things which I'm getting confused with. There are essentially 4 wires coming from the ABS system to the fusebox which then splits a little. So there are 6 wires in total. Here are the 4 wires coming from the ABS looms ECU connection to the fusebox. These have been physically traced and also confirmed with wiring diagrams. grey/white - Pin 16 grey/white - Pin 13 black/red - Pin 12 black/yellow - Pin 23 Now, at the fusebox side of things; grey/white (Pin 16) - Goes to fusebox plug W2 which I believe is for the ABS warning light? grey/white (Pin 13) - Is the diagnostic connector which goes to the diagnostic block behind the centre console? black/red (Pin 12) - Goes to fusebox plug W4 which is connected to the brake light switch - There is also a same coloured wire coming out at the W4 connection going to a single female teminal. black/yellow (Pin 23) - Now I think this goes to fusebox plug D7 (via a single terminal I believe) which is an ignition live. Connected to the W plug is a blue/white wire (W1) which is a VSS feed and plugs into the VSS block. Now here is where it gets confusing for me.. black/red not only goes from ABS Pin 12, to W4 but also from W4 to a single female terminal. On the wiring diagram (see link below) it goes to a signal point terminal T1 - but what is T1 and where does it come from? I can't find it on any diagram I've found. What kind of feed is it? Also, on the wiring diagram; black/yellow goes from ABS Pin 23 to a terminal (TV18) which then goes to D3 and D7. I believe both D3 and D7 are ignition lives. Do I need two feeds or will just one suffice? My original ABS system took the ignition feed direct from D7. The wiring diagram I borrowed from rubjohnnys vault (thanks RJ) See here: https://docs.google.com/folder/d/0B_V9-6xfgGlINzhhM2IyNmItOWRhZS00MzBkLTk2MTEtNGIyZDFmMDg0NWM2/edit?hl=en_GB&docId=0B_V9-6xfgGlIM2QyZTkyNTMtMGNjZS00NDAyLWExN2YtNGQ3NTA2NjYxYzli Finally, the ABS light. I can't use the Golf item because it physically won't fit. Can I some how get the original Corrado ABS light to work - I can't get my head around that wiring at all. I have been told a late Passat B4 one with the associated loom works but they are impossible to find - so if any guru can help me out in this department would be awesome.

There was a detailing feature not too long ago; http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=256385 The short of it was a rear chromalux Mk1/2 screen was covered in scratches and needed polishing. The article pretty much stated that it wasn't cost effective, took about 6 hours (professional) and would cost more than a replacement screen. The only reason it was done is because chromalux screen are obsolete and pricey.

I have a 1997 MK3 Golf VR6 sunroof mechanism in my 1993 (Dec) Corrado VR6. It's a direct swap. Literally I swapped everything from the Mk3 then used a B3 Passat glass panel as the Golf one is way too curvy - It'll fit as a temporary measure but the corners sit way too low as a permanent solution. The B3 Passat panel isn't as flat as the Corrado's but it's damn close - I've had mine fitted all winter with no ill effects. The MK3 mechanism is uprated and stronger too!

Is it a case of filling it with liquid metal then getting the head skimmed or vice versa? or just a case of filling, sanding then putting it back on if it doesn't need a skim?

Where are you based? Do you know anyone with VAGCOM?

I can post. PM'd.

The yellow temp makes no difference. It's associated with the small plug on the fan control module. Strangely enough when the aux pumps has kicked in, if you unplug the small connection on the control module the pump switches off, but plug the connection it back in and the pump comes back on. There has to be a timed relay in the control module. It does this with the ignition off too! Also, the aux pump turns itself off within 10 minutes (I timed it). It's just a concern it automatically comes on with ignition. Regarding the buzzing sound, I believe it's the throttle body adapting and moving - the sounds just resonating through the intake pipes. I believe.

Thanks for the input. I have found a few posts saying the aux pump should stay on for 10 minutes, but can't really find anything to confirm that. The concern was that it stayed on from cold. The fans kick in as they should and at variable speeds; so all is good there. It's just the aux water pump which concerns me. I believe I have everything plugged in correctly, the earths are fastened down. The difference with the earths from OBD1 to OBD2 is that on the OBD1 the four earths are on the engine harness block which fastens to the inlet/head. The OBD2 however has two earths on that inlet/head block and two which I placed on the chassis earth point next to the battery. They were cleaned but admittably I could have sanded the joining surfaces better. I'll try that first. I'll get the car on VAGCOM this morning to look for faults. I wonder is that buzzing could be the throttle body aligning? Having a stepper motor and all...

I've just started my car after completing this conversion - Started first time too! Everything seems ok, bar two things. The aux water pump seems to be staying on for a while after the engines been turned off. Even with the keys out. It'll go off if you remove one of the battery terminals. but as soon as you turn the ignition on again it comes back on and stays on. It did it from cold and warmed up. It does goes off after a while though (went in to clean up, checked the car and it was off). Is this normal? It didn't do it before. Also, I can hear an intermittent electrical buzzing sound coming from the MAF area. It could be either the MAF, the charcoal valve or the ABS connection on the turret. I can't narrow it down. Any thoughts?

Quick question.. I've just finished my OBD2 conversion and its running for the first time. Yippie! The aux water pump seems to be staying on for a while after the engines been turned off. Even with the keys out. It'll go off if you remove one of the battery terminals. but as soon as you turn the ignition on again it comes back on and stays on. It did it from cold and warmed up. It does goes off after a while though (went in to clean up, checked the car and it was off). Is this normal? It didn't do it before. Also, I can hear an intermittent electrical buzzing sound coming from the MAF area. It could be either the MAF, the charcoal valve or the ABS connection on the turret. I can't narrow it down. Any thoughts?

PM'd

That's pushing 180mph! Schweeeet Jesus, that's brave.

G60 Badge and eyebrow sold.

I'd rock that. It's a chick magnet.

I sense a feeling of nee found power...