P3rks

That's my issue! I want it to look OE which has a satin finish, I think? But then I don't think un-lacquered paint will be durable. The last thing I want is to go through the hassle of refurbishing it only to knock the manifold and scratch it or mark it within the first week - which I know I will!

If you can! I've used the VHT stuff before and I found it really chalky. Did you lacquer it too?

I'm just about to remove my inlet so I might as well give it a lick of paint. I'm wanting a nice OE colour. Can anyone point me in the right direction what paint and combo to use? Thanks! :)

Mk3 golf Gti 8v & 16v (codes ADY and ABF) alternators fit, but as above the pulley's need changing.

Just wear and tear.. The cylinder head is a job I only want to do once! Let me know how much you want for the seals please!

Looks like a custom jobbie? Try Longlife or Powerflow

No longer for sale. Keeping this for myself.

Ttt

Both SOLD

Got one sorted now! thanks

I was thinking Genuine, Elring or Victor Reinz.. Found a couple on eBay but buying car parts on eBay is always my last call. So those i put a link up for don't seem too bad? I don;t trust Febi that much if I'm honest. they are cheap and good, but longevity I'm unsure of, they are hit and miss. Done! And none in stock, I'm awaiting a call back. :)

Hi everyone! I'm currently in the process of rebuilding my VR6 cylinder head. I'll be using a late OBD2 Golf VR6 cylinder head with my 2.9 cams. I've been told that the heads are the same performance wise but the later golf heads have a improved oil chamber? Is this true? I have a metal Sharan headgasket (021 103 383 N ), re-newing all the tappets for VW ones and using ARP head bolts. But.. What valve stem seals are recommended and where to buy them from? What valve stems are recommended? (I have seen: http://www.bar-tek-tuning.com/VR6+ventilfuehrung+konisch.htm - thoughts?) Any input would be awesome! :)

You don't need to heat wrap it, but I would just to get the temperatures in the engine bay down. But make sure you do it properly and don't leave any area's without it - You'll cause heat spots where all the heat is released in a small area and cause premature failure. Either do it properly or not at all.

Why would someone do that!!? I despair sometimes :(

How badly is the other broken and what size is it? :)

Should be alright I would have thought? It's slightly flexible? As long as its wrapped in a cardboard tube or something stiff with "Do Not Bend - Fagile" in big bold writing it'll be ok..? And fully insured :)

I'm in need of a front splitter. The shorter type as my larger one is getting nailed on my new driveway. Closer to Sheffield the better unless you can post. Thanks

Kipdog! have you got a front splitter? My new driveway is killing mine :(

Got the Pm, I'll drop you a call over the weekend. Rich

Expressing interest in the cylinder head! Does it come with any proof of work such as receipts? Why are you selling it? Is the head good to go.. i.e. can it be fitted straight away with no other work? When can you get this removed, will you post and how you want payment? PM me.

Still got the clocks? If so, what year was the car and the mileage?

Right, I've removed all the engine earths and cleaned the contact points. From cold start-up on fast idle with no electrics on the battery is at 14.38v . From cold start-up on fast idle with all electrics on the battery is at 13.8v +/- .2 From warm on normal idle with no electrics on 14.3v From warm on normal idle with all electrics on 12v +/- .2 I've tested the circuits from the alternator, starter and engine earths and there is a maximum difference of 0.1v which suggests all the engine bay wiring is spot on. Now, the tests with all the electrics on just needed a ever so slight rise in RPM (the tiniest feather of the throttle) to get the volts back up to 14.4v. Does this still sound like the battery or could it indeed be the alternator? I don't want to fork out £100ish for the wrong one.

Nice one! I'll clean up the earths and re-test. If not it could be a new battery time. Strange though as it doesn't lose drain and starts first time every time, even when the cars been sat for a few weeks. Although, once or twice I have had to bump the car if I do any work in it with electrics on but the engine off, which i thought was a quick drain.. hmmmm..

Thanks for the fast update. Is there a quick way I can check the earths before I fork out on a new battery?

Hi everyone! I've noticed when driving at night that sometimes (not always) the lighting on my car dims when stationary and on idle. If I rev the car the lighting picks up to normal again, but then when it settles to idle the lighting dims again. I thought it could have been a tired alternator so I swapped it for a fully working 120amp alternator and I changed the wiring which goes from the alternator to the starter. It's not made a difference. The battery is about a year old but tested and fully working. I've looked at the volts at the battery end and on first start up and fast idle it's 14.4v, on normal idle with no electrics on it's about 14.2v, but as soon as I turn every electric on in the car the volts drop to 12.3v. Can anyone point me in the right direction on what to look at next and any tests I can perform? :scratch: