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eurospec

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  1. Location: Bournemouth UK Price: 1500.00 GBP Date added to Classifieds: 5th Jan 2012 Description: Just putting up a feeler for this as I got a good insurance quote on another car I want and can't have 2 on the drive! Basic spec is- 1989 UK Corrado 1.8 16v in Alpine White, Tax until May 2012, MOT May 15th 2012, From new GTi engineering RE2000 engine conversion which comprises of the following- Steel crankshaft of 92.8mm stroke, Cylinder block specially machined with 82.5mm bore, Lead-Indium heavy duty crankshaft bearings, Alloy pistons with valve clearance cut-outs, Gasflowed cylinder head, Re-profiled inlet and exhaust valve throats, Gasflowed inlet and exhaust manifold, Selected valve springs, Modified injection system. I'm unsure on whether it has GTi engineering camshafts in it, but it goes bloody well for a 16v! Quoted power of 175bhp, previous owner had 149bhp at the wheels on a dyno. Weitec Hicon GT coilovers, Supersprint backbox with straight through centre section, Full heated black leather interior, Single wiper conversion, Full respray in alpine white with smoothed front and rear numberplate recess's. 15x7 BBS RZ's in black Engine runs spot on, when I bought the car it was in a sorry state, blocked breather hoses, sensors unplugged and missing etc, but I've sorted it all to how it should've been. I replaced both fuel pumps recently with secondhand items. The car also has had the following replaced with new items - Both nearside CV joints, Offside outer CV boot, Both balljoints, both ARB droplinks, Front engine mount, Gearbox mount, Dipstick tube, Oil (5w30 fully synthetic with new filter), Coolant flush and replace, New heater matrix (valve bypassed), Top radiator hose, HT leads, Spark plugs, Air filter (K&N panel), OSF wheel bearing. I have replaced the clocks, but removed the original speedo and put it in this set as the MPG gauge wasn't working properly. Spoiler works as it should (didn't when I bought it!) I have also replaced the front engine mount and oil cooler. The interior is in very good condition, all seats and doorcards+steering wheel are black leather, the front 2 being heated. The headlining has been re trimmed in black suede. The sunroof opens and closes as it should on the button, along with everything else. The only thing that doesn't work on the interior is the glovebox light lol. The car has JVC front components, and some other make rears, with a new Sony MP3/Aux headunit. The car was previously resprayed in Alpine white before I bought it so it looks pretty fresh. The front and rear numberplate recess's have been smoothed over. There are a couple of bits of rust coming through, one tiny bit on the rear nearside arch (at the bottom), and a tiny piece around the top of the windscreen. The nearside front wing has been repaired in the past and when the arches were rolled some filler that was in the arch came out. I will supply a replacement wing with the car, but it will need painting (I will try and get this painted and on the car). The exhaust is blowing where the backbox joins the system too. I have a few spares to include with the sale including, New rear engine mount, Spare set of clocks (missing speedo), Spare spoiler relay, Both front wipers and mechanism, Stainless Backbox I got with the car, 1x P-slot (used as spare wheel), 1x Parcel shelf with 6x9 cutouts, Rear wiper and motor, Original grill and rear 16v badge, probably some other bits I've forgot to mention. The car will come on a set of black BBS RZ's (15x7) with good tyres, or I can include the Rota Grid V's pictured (now metallic grey/bronze colour) for an extra £500. Any questions just PM me. Price is £1500 on the BBS's, the price is more than other 16v's due to the engine and interior, worth £1400 alone. Here are some pictures for now, I will get better ones tomorrow. As the car stands now but with grey wheels. Colour of the rotas now- More pictures of the car- I have some new pictures. The car will comes on a set of black BBS RZ's (E30 ones, 15x7) for £1500 as it is, with the standard leather steering wheel and all the spares I have.
  2. Location: Bournemouth UK Price: 1500.00 GBP Date added to Classifieds: 5th Jan 2012 Description: Just putting up a feeler for this as I got a good insurance quote on another car I want and can't have 2 on the drive! Basic spec is- 1989 UK Corrado 1.8 16v in Alpine White, Tax until May 2012, MOT May 15th 2012, From new GTi engineering RE2000 engine conversion which comprises of the following- Steel crankshaft of 92.8mm stroke, Cylinder block specially machined with 82.5mm bore, Lead-Indium heavy duty crankshaft bearings, Alloy pistons with valve clearance cut-outs, Gasflowed cylinder head, Re-profiled inlet and exhaust valve throats, Gasflowed inlet and exhaust manifold, Selected valve springs, Modified injection system. I'm unsure on whether it has GTi engineering camshafts in it, but it goes bloody well for a 16v! Quoted power of 175bhp, previous owner had 149bhp at the wheels on a dyno. Weitec Hicon GT coilovers, Supersprint backbox with straight through centre section, Full heated black leather interior, Single wiper conversion, Full respray in alpine white with smoothed front and rear numberplate recess's. 15x7 BBS RZ's in black Engine runs spot on, when I bought the car it was in a sorry state, blocked breather hoses, sensors unplugged and missing etc, but I've sorted it all to how it should've been. I replaced both fuel pumps recently with secondhand items. The car also has had the following replaced with new items - Both nearside CV joints, Offside outer CV boot, Both balljoints, both ARB droplinks, Front engine mount, Gearbox mount, Dipstick tube, Oil (5w30 fully synthetic with new filter), Coolant flush and replace, New heater matrix (valve bypassed), Top radiator hose, HT leads, Spark plugs, Air filter (K&N panel), OSF wheel bearing. I have replaced the clocks, but removed the original speedo and put it in this set as the MPG gauge wasn't working properly. Spoiler works as it should (didn't when I bought it!) I have also replaced the front engine mount and oil cooler. The interior is in very good condition, all seats and doorcards+steering wheel are black leather, the front 2 being heated. The headlining has been re trimmed in black suede. The sunroof opens and closes as it should on the button, along with everything else. The only thing that doesn't work on the interior is the glovebox light lol. The car has JVC front components, and some other make rears, with a new Sony MP3/Aux headunit. The car was previously resprayed in Alpine white before I bought it so it looks pretty fresh. The front and rear numberplate recess's have been smoothed over. There are a couple of bits of rust coming through, one tiny bit on the rear nearside arch (at the bottom), and a tiny piece around the top of the windscreen. The nearside front wing has been repaired in the past and when the arches were rolled some filler that was in the arch came out. I will supply a replacement wing with the car, but it will need painting (I will try and get this painted and on the car). The exhaust is blowing where the backbox joins the system too. I have a few spares to include with the sale including, New rear engine mount, Spare set of clocks (missing speedo), Spare spoiler relay, Both front wipers and mechanism, Stainless Backbox I got with the car, 1x P-slot (used as spare wheel), 1x Parcel shelf with 6x9 cutouts, Rear wiper and motor, Original grill and rear 16v badge, probably some other bits I've forgot to mention. The car will come on a set of black BBS RZ's (15x7) with good tyres, or I can include the Rota Grid V's pictured (now metallic grey/bronze colour) for an extra £500. Any questions just PM me. Price is £1500 on the BBS's, the price is more than other 16v's due to the engine and interior, worth £1400 alone. Here are some pictures for now, I will get better ones tomorrow. As the car stands now but with grey wheels. Colour of the rotas now- More pictures of the car- I have some new pictures. The car will comes on a set of black BBS RZ's (E30 ones, 15x7) for £1500 as it is, with the standard leather steering wheel and all the spares I have.
  3. Found the problem! Where the AA man had had the bonnet up in the rain the otherday I think some water had got into the electrics. Took the dizzy off and cleaned it all out and its been fine since, touchwood!
  4. Both fine, were the first things I checked, although the car ran fine without the microswitch plugged in (connector was missing when I bought the car)
  5. Got it all sorted now, car is running strange though. It ran fine after I had replaced everything, seemed abit quicker, but now it doesn't rev too cleanly, and when started it hunts a fair bit on idle. Also sometimes if you go past 3k revs then let off the throttle the revs drop right down and the car almost cuts out before the revs come back up to around 1000rpm.... Any ideas?
  6. I replaced the lift pump not so long ago, but the inline pump was still sounding bad. The inline pump is broken now anyway so I will replace the filter whilst im changing the pump. I've found out that I can only use a Kjet pump anyway as none of the others are high enough pressure.
  7. Basically the inline fuel pump (under the car) has given up the ghost. It sounds as if it's jammed when you give it power, doesn't spin. I bought a replacement (second hand) off ebay a few months ago as the one on the car had started buzzing quite loud and sounded as if it was on its way out, and now its finally gone. I went to fit the replacement today and its completely different? The part number for the one on the car is 191 906 091H, and the one I have as a replacement is 191 906 090. The fuel accumulators are different because the pumps are different sizes, but they both have the same mounting brackets. Now my question is, could I use the smaller pump on my car? It has the fuel accumulator, and filter bolted to it, but the one I have taken off the car has another part on it which I can only guess is a fuel pressure regulator? Could I just swap the regulator over to my replacement fuel pump and use that, or am I going to have to try and find a new pump alltogether? Any help is appreciated as I need the car back on the road ASAP. If anyone has a fuel pump and accumulator off a 1989 1.8 16v KR for sale then let me know and Ill buy it off you providing its the correct part number. Cheers guys and Merry Christmas! ---------- Post added at 06:34 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:18 PM ---------- Right ive done some digging around online. Do you reckon I could use the replacement pump (3BAR at 75LPH) in place of the one on the car (5BAR at 125LPH)? The engine sends back what it doesn't need, does anyone know how much fuel a KR uses at full chat lol?
  8. eurospec

    8x15 ET28

    I have 15x8 ET0 and they sit perfect in my eyes, although mine has a narrower track being a 16v, so I would imagine they would sit about the same as what you mention on a VR6. My car is very low (rear coilovers all the way down and fronts with about 1'' of thread left) and I don't have any rubbing issues, had to roll the arches though.
  9. Inline pump can be expensive second hand. Mines noisy on my kr and I've gotta change it soon, made a noticeable difference too how the car runs. Cost me 60quid for a secondhand pump and 10 for a filter. Mustard to change, get so rusty!
  10. Ok sweet, is that price posted? Also I take it it's in good condition, Minor/no corrosion?
  11. As above, after a late spec front wing. Has to be in good condition, colour doesn't really matter, but preferably white! Cheers!
  12. I have Rota's on mine, were alot lighter than the BBS's i took off the car!
  13. Theres a guy local to me who has a 1.8 KR turbo he built himself. Is around 340-350bhp if I remember correctly. Shifts like you wouldn't believe. He said it cost a fair bit and took alot of time and he did it all himself.
  14. I was in christchurch yesterday, didn't go near boscombe! They are jap wheels,thought id put them on a corrado as ive never seen them on one before! They are abit bright lol, dont think theyre going to stay that colour for long!
  15. Haha cheers, that was me! Where abouts did you see me, and what time? I dont see many corrado's over this way,lucky to see one at a local meet every now and again!
  16. Replaced both front inner CV joints, they were such a mess inside. Definately original ones from the factory, and the car has done 150k! One of them had rust inside the boot and on the gearbox flange, the joints were nackered, the grease was just like a thick grinding paste! Also, the passenger side driveshaft seems to have corroded quite alot? Has a massive part where the old CV boot was on and it was just layers of rusty metal, driveshaft now has a big taper in the middle of it! Noise is still there though, Only thing I can think of is outer CV's, maybe wheel bearings or maybe the gearbox? Sounds as if its coming from the middle of the engine bay when you're in the car driving, just a little to the left... ---------- Post added at 03:23 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:57 PM ---------- Just changed the gearbox oil and there were quite a few pieces of metal in there :( Looked like they belonged to something inside the gearbox, looked like a carbide/toughened steel sorta material, from something circular....I hope my gearbox isn't shagged!
  17. I had the same problems with mine. I ended up replacing the clocks with another set, but kept my original speedometer to keep the mileage the same, and ever since then everything has worked spot on! I also replaced all the vacuum hoses apart from the one to the ECU.
  18. Weitec Hicon GT's are the same as KW V1's... Only difference is the KW's have a stainless body, Weitecs have a galvanized body. Other than that all other hardware is the same, even the springrates and damping settings. They're even made in the same factory! Your paying the extra £150 ontop of Weitecs for KW's because of the stainless body.
  19. I have Weitec Hicon GT's and can't fault them. Ride is very good for coilovers unless you wind them right to the bottom (thats to be expected though!)
  20. Yes, the car is quite low. Ill take them off tomorrow and take a look, the bearings feel fine, hub spins fine with no side to side play and no dodgy noises.
  21. Had a good look under the car last night and have still come to no conclusion.... Wheel has no play in it and spins freely, suggesting it's not the bearing. Doesn't seem to make the noise when jacked up ans spinning the wheel by hand. It's the same with the wheel at full lock in both directions as well, Im still thinking it's the CV joint, but is there anyway to check without taking it off the car?
  22. Right I have a slight problem that is getting worse all the time. The car is clunking all the time with the rotation of the wheels. Doesn't matter if the clutch is depressed or not. No change when going around corners etc, and its coming from the passenger side front. Car is a 1989 2.0 16v. The noise gets faster with speed, I thought it could be the wheel bearing, but isn't this more of a whiny noise? So I suspected the CV joint, but Im unsure on how to check these without removing the boots. The driveshaft has some lateral movement in it, I presumed this was necessary for the drivetrain to work correctly... Any help would be appreciated, Im going to buy new front wheel bearings anyway as a matter of course as the car has done 150k and I have no record of them ever being changed. Thanks!
  23. I can adjust my weitecs by hand. Greased them up and they spin really freely when adjusting them! I don't have a C spanner either, watch you don't round off the allen screw when undoing them, they are brass, and tend to get seized into the bodies of the collars pretty easily!
  24. eurospec

    Wheel fitment

    I know someone would say something along those lines. I've never had, or know anyone who's ever had any problems running stretched tyres, ive never seen anything online either, apart from people getting into trouble with the Police. That doesn't answer the question anyway.
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