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seanl82

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Posts posted by seanl82

  2. Posted

    I think it's great what you've done. It's a gauge of prices nothing more, and there will always be exceptions on both sides of the scale for all models. Regardless of any one persons being better than most, the evidence proves that Storms are more desirable and sell for more, it's simple fact. Yes it's an enthusiasts car as are the vast majority of cars past 20 years old imo, so the sensible person wants to know that if they're going to invest in one, that they're not going to get shafted. An average price in the current market helps them verify that and also helps the average person justify spending what amounts to a not insignificant amount if they want to restore them. 

  6. Posted

    12 hours ago, Keyo said:

    Every few months i see one of these they go up 2 or 3k - they really are catching up with the e30 m3.  Some way to go yet though. 

    Great looking motor mind you with the recaro 

    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/203800635030

    I genuinely don't see the appeal of these. Aside from the fact they're "rare", they are absolutely Fugly, and performance from the G60 in standard guise isn't exactly seat of pants thrilling, especially when bolting a heavy Synchro system to it. Definitely wouldn't be considering spending almost 40k of my hard earned on it anyway.....

  7. Posted

    16 hours ago, fla said:

    whats the best way to remove the actuators?  I've removed the two screws at the front, the connector is a bit of a pain but how is that operating rod removed?  Do you remove it from the lock mechanism or from the actuator?  

    Thanks

     

    Hasan

    The the rod is attached by a hook on the locking mechanism, so if you remove that it should give you enough movement to unhook it with the actuator screws out.

  8. Posted

    How did I miss the last one, great progress and it's looking fantastic! Really interesting piece on the coil pack, didn't realise this was done with VWMS - definitely one for Keyo and I imagine he's desperately sourcing parts! Lol. Keep it up, looking forward to more updates. 👍

  9. Posted

    Each small step adds to larger progress, good effort. It's having the consistent time to diagnose and repair these aspects which a lot of us struggle with, so despite periods where they're dormant it'll end in positive results. I had my brake master refurbished by past parts too. Good company to deal with and seemed very knowledgeable on the phone. Fixing some of the less commonly available parts (fuel pump) is a great thing to do now whilst there is still the possibility of acquiring them. Leaving it another year or so potentially ends any likelihood of sourcing OE type stuff so worth doing while you can. 👍

  10. Posted

    I had a Magnex on a previous project car, and aside from the waffle just inside the tail pipe it was identical to the Jetex on my current car. 

    Maybe worth considering?

  13. Posted

    I don't think this is as much an issue when starting from cold though, so a drop in pressure seems unlikely to be the cause. It's more often seen when warm. Mine fires within 2 seconds from cold, but takes probably 6 - 8 seconds when warm and tends to be between 5 - 30 minutes after switching off. It's fine in that first 5 minutes or so then again when its had chance to cool down.

  14. Posted

    The plastics are a slightly different colour. Have you tried deep cleaning the seats? There shouldn't be much difference in colour but sun bleaching may have lightened some parts. As mentioned, you can't buy replacement leather covers, so dying is the only option, which is all a specialist retrimmer would do or charge a huge amount to completely remake bespoke covers in the original pattern based off of your current ones. Your choice obviously depending on your budget.

  15. Posted

    They don't make original covers, so you would have to buy a used interior in beige. That would mean seats, door cards, interior plastics (A,B,C pillar covers, handbrake tunnel and trims etc), and also carpet if you wanted to get everything. Leather standard seats in good condition are extremely expensive in the UK, Recaro seats even more so. My advice would be to dye what you already have or retrim the whole lot but that is also very expensive for a good quality one. Remember, they don't make beige cows so the leather is dyed from the factory anyway. 

  20. Posted · Edited by seanl82

    The load bearing bolts are all 10.9. VW will stock some, but if you search Zap7VW you can obtain the part numbers for everything you need. What you can't get from VW you should be able to source from elsewhere on the net. 👍

  24. Posted · Edited by seanl82

    If the CVs are good, could just mask them up and rub down/wire wheel the shafts and spray some hammerite on them maybe? Same with sump maybe, and just change bolts one at a time torquing up to spec (25nm iirc) to save the hassle of dropping it with new oil and changing the gasket as well. 👍

  25. Posted

    43 minutes ago, Keyo said:

    Its actually tactical to taunt you and cressa car ocd lol.  

    Haha, just seems counter productive and much more expensive in the long run with the drive shafts, as they would have been removed to fit the gearbox and hubs anyway. Same with your engine rebuild, the sump would have been off with a new gasket fitted, so seems a shame not to have had it powder coated and new bolts put on is all. I understand you've got to stop somewhere though mate, costs spiral as it is without wanting to change every single component whilst you're there. Everything else just seems so shiny in comparison though! Lol.

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