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seanl82

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Everything posted by seanl82

  1. Available new from Classic parts via VW heritage for £29. Seem to be a lot of folk buying corrado stock and selling it on for a profit through eBay lately. Edit: not sure if heritage one is right, doesn't have sunroof switch. Worth checking part numbers though.
  2. You can check if the stat is stuck open by checking the bottom rad hose as it's coming up to temp. The top one should get hot quite quickly, but the bottom one should remain cool until. Up to temp when the stat should open and allow hot water through to be cooled by the radiator. If it's stuck open, you're water will be being constantly cooled when on the move, and only warm the water up when sat in traffic when no air flow, which sounds like what you are experiencing.
  3. You can check if the stat is stuck open by checking the bottom rad hose as it's coming up to temp. The top one should get hot quite quickly, but the bottom one should remain cool until. Up to temp when the stat should open and allow hot water through to be cooled by the radiator. If it's stuck open, you're water will be being constantly cooled when on the move, and only warm the water up when sat in traffic when no air flow, which sounds like what you are experiencing.
  4. I just used heat reflective tape when I did mine. It'll have nothing to do with your warm air problem though. I know you've replaced it, but the symptoms are classic thermostat failure.
  5. Yep, my money is on the thermostat then.
  6. Does it warm up when sat in traffic, then cool down again when on the move? Worth checking as although you said you changed the stat, I had two brand new duff ones from ECP after another. Went and got a genuine one from VW and it was fine. Check it in a bowl of boiling water before fitting to make sure it opens as it should to save yourself a lot of hassle as I know what its like to change on the KR. Other than that, its the bypass valves or the matrix. Can't be anything else tbh.
  7. Well you may as well change the matrix at the same time then. I may have read it wrong, when you say constant warm do you mean hot, or it won't go to cold when selected? If its that it won't go cold, then it will likely be the foam. If it doesn't get hot properly, it'll be nothing to do with it. You have to remove the heater box to change the matrix and sort the foam as the flaps for some unknown reason have big holes in, and are covered over by the foam. When it breaks down, the cool air doesn't divert so you get a constant hot stream.
  8. Ah you're right actually Jim, problem then is getting the stud out afterward!
  9. Not particularly difficult, just time consuming and there are a couple of nuts and clips that are sometimes difficult to remove. Have a look in the wiki at the guide. Jim Bowen is having one of the problems right now!
  10. Its supposed to be Jim. One of mine was like that too. The studs are captive screws in the plastic of the heater box, but just chew their way through if the nut is corroded on. :( If you get no joy, its just a case of pulling the box out with a bit of care so as not to break anything else.
  11. Possibly your bypass valves. Either they are working as they should and your matrix is blocked, or they've become stuffed up which is very common and just stuck to divert. The two pipes going to the matrix in the engine bay, there should be a bridge between them with a bypass valve each side. If you're confident your matrix will last, take them off and put some copper pipe directly to the matrix. The bypass valves are supposed to divert water flow if there is excess pressure in the matrix. Worth a try before replacing the matrix. Changing it is exactly the same across all types so you're in for a treat if that is the problem.
  12. A lot of people have trouble with them being extremely noisy, especially when removing and re-installing the original. Not sure if its bleed procedure or fluid type used, but I had absolutely no problems at all. I did the bleed procedure with the front end in the air though, so had no resistance through the wheels when doing it. I did it without the engine running first as well to get the fluid moving and into the pump.
  13. Should do the job. Its just a mechanical pump at the end of the day. Casting, bearings and seals. Only thing with a budget one is it might not last as long as a high end one with seals or bearings failing earlier. I wouldn't be too concerned though, and as long as it fits well enough you shouldn't have any problems.
  14. Why recon? Readily available replacements in the aftermarket if genuine isn't available. Sharan will be exactly the same. 93-98 I would have thought which was the production years of the AAA engine used in the Golf/Sharan/Vento........ etc. Exactly the same as the ABV anyway.
  15. The one on ebay has been on three or four times now too. Doesn't bode too well if you ask me.
  16. Ian, Rog, sorry I should have thought before opening my mouth. It won't fit in the boot of the car I'm afraid. Pat, James, sorry to you as well. I meant to get some photos earlier but completely forgot. I'm next on it on Tuesday at lunch, so I'll grab a few then. Matt, it's OK I was half cut staying up to watch the boxing so I could understand the lingo! :lol:
  17. That's a good point, I'd not thought about that! Haha! I've got a spare one so I'll check if it fits. Will have the kids in the back so it'll have to go in the boot.
  18. Ian, if it helps I'm in Bristol 19th-21st, then down in Plymouth where I'll see Rog on the 2nd Jan.
  19. From what I've read previously Rob, Germany have no idea as the badges were put on by the dealerships in the UK. The second time I phoned, the guy was quite helpful and checked his system, spoke to his supervisor, and emailed a contact there before emailing me back a few days after, but said there were no details of the car here or in Germany as the records didn't go back that far. The first guy sounded like he simply couldn't be bothered to check and got nowhere other than him telling me the records only went back to the year 2k
  20. If I'm understanding you correctly Matt, I'll be just giving it a single pass with a rotary using a finishing polish. I've actually got 3M stuff which is exactly what I'll be using actually. It'll be Ultrafina with a blue finishing pad. Paint is still pretty soft, and the hazing I've put on it is only very very light anyway where I've just rubbed off greasy finger prints with a microfibre, but the dust has caused the hazing. Carpro Cquartz will be sealing it afterward.
  21. Good things come to those who wait Pat! In fairness, there's not really much to show what hasn't already been shown. The car is dusty as hell atm so as soon as its all back together, I'll give it a detail, get it MOTd, and take it out for some decent pics. I'm hoping it snows as I've got a Nautical themed picture in my mind in preparation for next years calender!
  22. Mine was first registered in February 95 and was badged as a Storm, and first owned by the dealership. I've tried twice phoning VW HQ in Milton Keynes, and both times I've been told their records don't go back that far. Others have managed to get confirmation in the past though so its worth a try. I'll give it another go again at some point.
  23. By the book its supposed to be distilled water, but if you live in a soft water area, tap will be just fine.
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