seanl82

Pretty sure it's exactly the same as the mk3 boys do it. Only other thing I haven't mentioned is to remove the rubber/Foam damper bit on the shut.

No its dead easy. You can use the strut ball joints in the place of the original securing bolts as they're the same thread size.

Mk3 Golf boot struts and they can be fixed using the top bonnet mount and one of the bolts that secures the wing.

I think 2k is a sensible asking price with what you've described tbh mate.

Yes mate. Earlier ones went up at 45, late at 55 (ish).

Hi Angus, it's probably remnants of an aftermarket alarm, or stuff from one that's fitted. Trace the wiring back if you can, and remove anything not needed. I've just replaced my entire interior looms due to this. There are some single pin connectors attached to terminal blocks, which should slot in on the top of the fuse box. Also a single relay and fuse which should be housed on the box too. Mine were all dangling down and I didn't know what they were for! It's worth removing them from where they were spliced in if you can. Gives you chance to clean up the join, and solder and heatsink properly rather than just put a bit of electrical tape over it which some "pro" alarm fitters seem to do.

Thanks Pat! There's a very informed guide on Detailing World if you're new to it, and well worth a read. All I'll say is that caution is the key if using a rotary. Even the best pro detailers in the world cannot remove every scratch or Mark, as the paintwork if original, just wouldn't be thick enough to allow it. A medium cut diminishing polish with the correct pad would be as far as you'd want to go without fear of striking through. This will take out 90% of swirls and scratches and is enough to give the paint back its gloss. Don't be tempted to stay on the same area trying to get that last mark out either. Watch some guides on you tube to see how quick you should pass, and don't use too much pressure - let the pad and polish do the work.

Cracking work as usual Jim! This amount of work on so many areas of the car would be very daunting for me, hats of to you mate!

Doh! I took the ones out of aqua which were perfect, and made some to put in that. I did a good leak test when I washed it and I'm all good thankfully. That was something I was worried about tbh!

It's not particularly low tbh. The support beams on the lift come right to the edge so there's next to no clearance as it goes up on the ramps. Thanks for all the comments again guys, appreciate it! Rob, that's a bummer mate, sorry to be a jinx!

Cheers Rob! Splitter is just Scuffed luckily. If it had cracked I'd have been pretty ****ed off!

Just don't put it on too hot!

That's it, the bags may become discoloured but it'll do the trick.

Bit of a faff tbh. Front bumper needs to be removed, and you'll have a fight getting the old one off as the cavity wax bonds it on good and proper, but it's only a few bolts really. There's one in the door jam, one accessed behind the arch liner, one hidden by the bumper, and the ones in the bonnet shut. That's it really. Bumper is removed by undoing the outer two bolts on the cross member. Don't undo the middle one as the engine will drop!

Cheers Matt, not far off yourself now mate!

As Sean says really. It's incredibly easy to apply. Its worth doing everything you can to get the paintwork perfect before applying as it'll ensure longevity. The products aren't cheap so you don't want it only lasting a matter of a couple of months.

Likewise mate, nothing wrong with wanting things just so though! :thumbleft:

Not really mate. It's a touch cheaper but that seems to be the only real difference. I was well into detailing in the past, but I've grown tired of spending hours and hours doing it all every 6 months, and waxing every few weeks. I moved onto nanotechnology to ensure I only have to do it every 18 months to 2 years hopefully.

Thanks all, really happy with it now and can't wait to get out in it! Sean, I've used it in the past but I've got Carpro Cquartz this time. I've not used it yet as I wanted to give it a finishing polish before applying. Alas, I've run out of time before I want it back on the road, so I've just put some collinite on for the time being until I get a chance. Should be back on it before show time so it'll look it's best then! The exterior plastics have been sealed with Carpro Dlux though so only paintwork needs doing.

No I got you mate, was just being fickle.

It came up on here a couple of months ago mate. Good price, so I took it! Fingers crossed this is the end of my woes then! I do have another that came still attached to a second hand servo and lines to the abs pump I bought. I'd imagine it still works as it came from a working system. I'll take mine apart then if it's electrical problems that occur and I should be able to refurbish that one as well. Cheers buddy!

Would the servo throw up this fault if it was duff Sean? I have a brand spankers pedal sensor so it should work. Shouldn't take long to fit and test it but I won't get the chance til at least the 27th now.

Good new Chris! I take it they are a local company?

Thought I'd pretty much finished so gave it the first wash and protection since paint. Scuffed my brand new bloody splitter getting onto the ramp before it had even seen a public road. Grrrrr! Then went took it for a quick spin to make sure everything was OK. Apparently not! As soon as I passed about 10 mph, the friggin ABS light came on again! Is this the one on the servo below the master cylinder, or the one behind the dash? I have a spare anyway luckily, but busy until after Xmas now so it'll have to wait. Still awaiting my scuttle clips from Classic parts anyway. This will mean I have replaced the entire ABS loom, the pump, ECU, both rear sensors, and soon the pedal position sensor. The only thing that hasn't been knackered are the two front sensors!

Which Town centres do you know that open their doors at 0600 Kev!? :scratch: