seanl82

Not really no. It's a pretty primitive fuel injection system, very fiddly and difficult to set up correctly. Not many places now have any experience with it, so go in ham fisted and make matters worse. If it's running ok to begin with, leave it alone. Too many people start fiddling with the mixture screw and balls it up. The cars are at the age now where the fuelling system has started breaking down. Injectors get clogged, seals are brittle, and too much air is introduced which causes rough running. This is where people start fiddling and creating more problems. If you want reliability, go 2.0 and if you want more power, cams from the 1.8 will give you plenty extra.

2.0 bottom end with a 1.8 head! It's a good mod to gain some power. In all honesty, there are pros and cons to both. I test drove a 2.0 and was a bit disappointed with the performance, so opted for the 1.8. They both produce exactly the same figures in terms of performance, but I felt the 1.8 was a bit more responsive and had better pull up the revs. That said, the 1.8 is the older early style, which uses k-jet fuel delivery which can be a bit temperamental, and there is very little in the way of general diagnostics. The early style does have its benefits though. Parts seem to be less expensive than on the later cars, and they are very basic so easy to work on yourself.

Replied. They'll be blasted and coated in time anyway, just accumulating parts to do over winter, then swap straight in without much hassle.

Not much you can do Jim. Just try to force the heater box out without breaking it too much, then try to bond the moulded nuts back in afterward. I had to do it with one of mine when I changed the matrix.

Sunroof mechanism

As above. Many parts are obsolete so getting hard to find, and those parts can be expensive if you manage to find someone selling new old stock. http://wiki.the-corrado.net/the_corrado_buying_guide_checklist.html

As above I reckon. It's getting toward the end of the show season and an increasing amount of people are tucking them up for the winter, but it's at the point where decisions are being made as to what to do over winter, yet nothing concrete yet.

Ok great. If you PM me your number, if that's the best way to contact you I'll give you a bell nearer the time to find out when best suits. Cheers!

Yeah collection if that's ok dude. Happy to have a trip to your lock up whilst I'm there if your having a clear out and at these sort of prices! :thumbleft:

Oh and space saver too please. Can you PM me details and I can pay now or on collection which will probably be next w.end if that's ok? Thanks mate.

Rear beam, front hubs, and arb please rams! Are the drive shafts still attached to the cvs?

Not sure tbh. It has been mentioned on here before I think so a Google search may help you better.

Think it's the eaton M45 on the mini, which is apparently a little small so not much to be had by way of tuning. The eaton M62 from the slk? Is apparently more suited and a better option for tuning potential should you wish in the future.

They won't ship individual parts is why. They'll wait for a large amount to save themselves charges. I ordered from ARZ Tuning a few weeks back and granted, it was almost £30 delivery charge, but was with me within 48 hours.

I don't have cams and my exhaust is very quiet. When I bought the car the bottom half of the airbox had been butchered to death, but I put up with it for a short while because it sounded great! I then fitted a new (old) but good condition standard one, and thought I'd developed a problem as I couldn't hear the v6 burble, and it felt a little underpowered or less responsive to the point I thought it was missing on a Cylinder. It couldn't be anything else, so I put a BMC CDA on and it instantly returned to what I was used to. This way I'm not embarrassed if someone pokes their head in my bay a notices a gaping hole where the bottom of the airbox should be either! But tbf, it rivalled the BMC for sound.

Bit fiddly but not too difficult if you have a vice. Just give it a good smash with a mallet which should break the retaining circlips hold on the drive shaft.

Gutted for you mate. Worth sticking the other lump in? Just tell the missus you want to take it off the road for the winter to preserve it, and put a new lock on the garage! That way you can do it slow time and she'll be none the wiser! :twisted:

That's the one, yeah I'd recommend them too. Good service! :thumbleft:

Ignition switch or starter motor would be my guess. If you have a multimeter church for voltage at the starter when you try to turn it over. It could be immobiliser if it's an aftermarket system, so worth ruling that out too, but the factory immobiliser will allow the car to start for a second or 2, then cut out.

For your sake I hope it's correct, didn't come cheap!

No worries mate. Try VW spares Rob. It's the same company.

Ah, just read your sig, probably worth repairing I think.

Which wheels, and did they give you a quote for repair? I had one done which cost me (well, the previous owner) £70. If it's a speedline, they occasionally come up on eBay relatively cheap, but you won't know the true state of it tbh. Your call I guess.........

The sealant is for use on fibre only Rob, although I don't think it hurts on the rubbers tbh mate.

I ordered the wrong gAsket by mistake from AVS last year which was the fibre one Rob, so the gaskets (albeit aftermarket) can still be had too.