seanl82

The dealer supplied paint usually comes in a twin pack of base and lacquer. They're only 150ml each though iirc and not particularly cheap.

Just seen this thread. Koch is a German company, and many pro detailer over there use their range. It's little known over here though. Tbh, anything that advertises a permanent protect, I'd be very sceptical. I simply can't see how it could last the lifetime of the car. The nanotechnology does exist though, and many detailers both pro and amateur use it all over the world. I've used G-techniq C1 in the past, and I also have Carpro cquartz ready to use when I get my car back from paint. It's like the protection coat that most dealerships are offering for new cars now, at a stupidly high price for a product that costs about £20 and takes half an hour to apply. Except the two I've mentioned work! Think of it as a sacrificial lacquer that you apply, which has the same visual and protective characteristics as a high quality wax or sealant, but lasts 10 times longer. It typically lasts 18 months to 2 years depending on conditions, and is therefore advertised as semi permanent. There are lots of others now on the market like n3p has used, and all will have their benefits. If you like your car paint looking it's absolute best, I'd certainly recommend it.

How do you mean the sump has been shortened? If its the 4mo sump, it'll have the oil pump to fit also. Running so low, I'd advise to just get a replacement.

Good advice from John (16vG60) above. I think we're all forgetting the OP was asking with regard to his auto. I don't think anyone that's posted actually has an auto! But, in keeping with the way the thread has gone, mines like Hofs above, but I do get slightly better on a motorway run. 35-36 at 70mph.

As above Rog. Mine has the old type too but mine was replaced much more recently. I'd not have a problem running the old style guide and tensioner bolt, but I'd definitely replace the case crank seal. Mine wasn't replaced when the previous owner had the chains and tensioner was done so leaked - what happens when you pay a garage to do the work and don't specify I suppose, which may have been the case with yours unless you have a receipt stating it had been done. For what they cost, I wouldn't leave it if I had any doubts. I'd also replace the clutch release bearing and inspect the clutch as a matter of course too mate.

£80 delivered?

Hammerite satin black from a spray tin Rog. It doesn't need to be high temp as it doesn't get that hot. I used it on my old valver to good effect.

Hi there, if I'm honest it doesn't sound in good shape. What is the mileage, and is there any service history? With cars of this age, bodywork tends to be the most important factor, so that is what determines value on the most part. This sound a bit rough on both parts though, and early 16v ones aren't the most desirable. To this end, I'd say sub 1k unfortunately. If he's attached to the car, I'd be inclined to offer it to an enthusiastic family member or friend to take on as a project for what it's worth.

They probably just have a drop down menu with power increase figure on! If you'd had an accident, which doesn't bear thinking about, you would have had to ask for an audio file of the conversation which they should have. I took to installing a recorder on my phone with the first/last/only agents I let my house with, due to the fact they were so incompetent. Shouldn't have had to, but it saved me a lot of aggro in the end.

Yeah that's a pretty healthy budget. Just keep an eye out on here, pistonheads, eBay, sometimes autotrader, and maybe even edition38 depending on how much modification you want. There seem to be lows and high points of reasonable cars for sale, but you need to be prepared to travel, and know when to walk away regardless of how far away a viewing is. There's a helpful buyers guide in the wiki section under general information which I'd advise to print out and take along with you.

What's your budget? Have a look in the cars for sale section too.

Just to add, the same seller is as mentioned is flogging another splutter on ebay, Burren price with a couple of days still to run, £199!!! Seriously, I think I'm gonna order 3 from heritage, sell 2, then I get a free one and have a few quid profit too!

Same happened to,me with a set of rear lights, although it could have, and probably was the courier. Had a note through the letter box to say that the package was in the back garden. He'd thrown them over the 7 foot wall to get them in there though! I also had a replacement second hand sump sent to me, with a shed load of oil still in it! It was leaking out the packaging and everything! I agree though Rob, I always make the effort to at a minimum, wipe things down before I sell them. It beggars belief what standards some will allow to be seen selling.

Little to report on paint front, progress seems very slow although they seem to be doing it properly which is encouraging. They sent me a few pics of the inner wing that they've now done last Friday, and they had the wings and bumpers on the stands ready for prep, which the assured me they were ready to crack on with this week. They said it had taken longer to do the inner wing than anticipated, as the repair panel I sent them was both inner and outer skin. They drilled out all the plug welds on the car and the repair panel, then welded the good stuff in. Apart from that and a bit of filler work, not much else had happened. I'm still accumulating parts, and I've had a good clean and prep,of parts ready to go back on. All exterior plastics received a coat of CarPro Dlux which looks fantastic! Just got to see how it fares for longevity. Should be somewhere between 18 months to 2 years though. Interior has had another clean and a couple of coats of protection, and the 288s I got from Harrier have had a coat of my signature rape yellow paint ready to be fitted when I get the car back. Ive got a replacement sunroof motor, an entire car loom thanks to Vr6gar to replace my chopped to bits one, and I went to see Rams last weekend where I acquired a rear beam, a set of front hubs, drive shaft, arb, and a few other bits and pieces. Got my fingers in a few other bits which I'll hopefully get over the weekend, but I'll update on completion. Kind of twiddling my thumbs now though, keep going into the workshop at lunch times and just sort of moving stuff around..............need the car back so I can get stuck in! Lol

Thanks for the update Em!

I got the same one as Jim above. Again, nothing to report since fitting so all good.

Good stuff Rog! Look forward to seeing you getting stuck in with this! If the head was done such a short while (mileage wise) I'd be inclined to leave it alone tbh. You'll likely need.to skim the head again before putting it back on, and there's very little material so valves will need to be removed to get it done, and if it's already been skimmed, there may not be enough to take off without fear of contact. As you mentioned, the bolts are stretch type too so cost will be building up and up.

Gutting mate. Something I'm sure we all dread happening. On the plus side, at least you got out all alright. Any idea of the cause?

If you can post, as per my previous post I'm interested in b pillars, parcel shelf, and a set of supports, and clips etc too. Can you give me a price if your willing to post please mate. Cheers!

As above, the 288s are easily identified by a triangular cut out on the caliper, where as the 280s like yours have an oval cut out. Seems the previous owner was telling porkies or was also fed a line mate.

Get it on the deck and check Rob. Quite often they die after an air lock or starvation. Very temperamental little buggers!

How does the classic car show at the NEC fair for newer water cooled VW stuff? I'm sure the auto jumble is a pretty large one, but assume it's for older marques?

Sorry to hear that but it's commendable what your doing. Most would take the hit, scrap or part out the car, and move on. Look forward to the progress and some pictures!

Theyre not quite as good at filtering as a standard paper, but still good enough provided they are cleaned properly - which isn't anywhere near as much as 50k! If you do get one, clean it as often as you'd change a paper filter, I'd say 2 years or 20k max. Try to get the oil-less one as well which most new k&N's are, as the oiled ones are known to kill MAFs.

Congratulations Chris, well deserved! :thumbleft: