seanl82

Ah yeah, silly me of course they're different caps. :bonk: Thanks gents! :thumbleft:

Where did you get your centre caps from James? Looking for a set myself now! Look forward to seeing the RCs on your car, sure they'll look amazing! :thumbleft:

It was an eBay seller called vwolbay. Think he has a couple of cv joints still for sale at the moment. I'm not sure of the quality tbh, which is why I'll put the originals back on once refurbished. I'll get the shafts powdercoated and all new inner and outer joints and boots. These will do for now though.

Yeah those are perfect symptoms of a failing MAF Jim. I have the aftermarket coil on mine at the moment (forgot which one I put in when diagnosing something else) so the one I've got with me is a Bosch one. I'll get it off this afternoon via Myhermes if that's ok. Can you PM me your number for a contact for the delivery driver please. Cheers mate!

Yeah sorry thanks Matt. I've had to inner boot trim off, bit all thats coming through those holes are oozes of what looks like mastic! Think I'll just have to bite the bullet and rip it off, then get a wanted ad up for a replacement. Door seals aren't cheap at £77.30 each but I do need them as mine have both split along the bottom. There are alternatives if you do a search that are much cheaper, but they aren't exactly the same, and don't overlap the rear door card which I think would really bug me.

Car now off the road and strip down has begun. Back on the Solitudes ready for the RXs to go off for powdercoating next week. Need some fishing line to get the rear Vr6 and Storm badge off, and I'm having an utter mare with the boot hinge trims, and rear number plate tub. The tub has obviously been off in the past as its been painted body colour, and I think it's been bonded back on with God knows what. Got a few bits to go off for powdercoating too. The rear bumper iron is in a pretty sorry state tbh, and one of the support bracket bolts sheared. Hopefully it's salvageable though. Ordered a few bits from Heritage last week. Got both scrapers and both door aperture seals along with a few other little bits. I'll put my ARZ order in next week. The couple of reasons for taking it off the road a little early were to preempt any problems I may find during stripping it down, and also the MOT was about to expire. A couple of little bits that need doing were an outer cv boot, and finally trying to get to the bottom of my ABS problem. I couldn't be bothered to just change the boot knowing the front subframe will be dropped probably over winter, so I just bought a whole aftermarket drive shaft with CVs already on as it was only £31 to my door. I'll refurb the originals when I do the rest and put it all back together then. More updates soon.

Yeah that pretty good actually. The VR does run hot, but anything around the 120 mark is when I'd be slowing down and taking it easy. Most I saw was 118 around Castle Combe. Usually sits between 96 and 106 dependant on conditions.

Sign up on vagcat mate. You need to sign up to be able to view the parts list. There are diagrams of everything on there.

Fuel pump relay will be either 67, 80, or 167. It's located bottom row far right on the relay panel above the fuse box.

Flashing lights are probably just battery. Swap out the fuel pump relay first, dead easy and the most common problem.

Problem with that though Rog is that it's open to abuse. I'm happy to do it for those I know or trust, as they're forum regulars and have been around for quite a while. I'd be reluctant to send something potentially worth a few quid to someone I don't really know though.

Yeah fair enough mate. I just had to order a second helping of the fuchs pro race too. The six litres I ordered previously only got about a third way up the dipstick level indicator, so I thought it was.pointless ordering a single litre. Got another 5 litres and a litre free again from opie. Hopefully should be enough to do the next change though as a little should remain.

As above, thanks mate. :thumbleft:

Replied.

I have two spare coilpacks Jim, one genuine although slightly damaged on the casing, and one aftermarket. Both tested in perfect working order though. I'd be happy to send it up to you foc if you just want to rule yours out mate?

Agreed. Some amazing examples in the last couple of months from the forum. It's a shame, these members are the pillars of this community and all very knowledgeable chaps. Hopefully they remain around, and I prey their cars don't get lost amongst the e38 lot or none at all, and rarely if ever seen around here ever again. I know the baton needs to be passed on sometimes, and ownership will run its course with everyone, but a shame all the same.

It's actually Classic Green Pearl. :smug:

It's a simple shaft driven vane pump Rog. Not heard many (if any) instances of them failing. Unless the mesh on the pickup has become blocked, I can't see it being the pump. Easy enough to check thougg by dropping the sump and removing the two hex bolts that secure it mate.

Correct.

I didn't change my clutch when I removed the engine, as it had been changed 4 years and 20k previously, and it looked in very good order. I did replace the release bearing though with a gsf LUK one and it's been Fine. No clunking or whining at all........... Although the wife more than makes up for it! :lol:

Yep, that's the Badger!

Will do mate.

Part numbers were 535837473A (left), and 535837474A (right) Michael. I can't remember which one was out of stock, and it doesn't mention anything on the order confirmation email either, but they are both showing out of stock now. I ordered on the 16th. Might give them a ring tomorrow to see what they say mate.

By the way Rob, I think you did! I ordered them along with a few other bits last week, and one was out of stock. I put down to send the entire order together when all are back in stock, but no idea when they'll have them. Still showing out of stock now!

Generally (although not always) only happens when up to temp. As Sean (Jaymo) says, the wire is at a right angle, and the insulation tends to break down right there. It's held in by a single M6 (I think) hex bolt. Access is the hard part, changing is simples.