seanl82

Sorry if it seems patronising but is the switch on the stalk set to 2?

Track rod/ ARB/ wishbones knocking on something/each other maybe. Need to pinpoint where its coming from like you said with someone down there looking both stationary and moving.

40mm here with 15" rims and 50 profile tyres. (standard basically)

Its just one long bolt. Just get a trolley jack underneath the gearbox to support it whilst your changing it, and you can do it all from above. Should be a simple and straightforward job. :ignore::grin:

Well its gonna cost you less in fuel and/or car hire than the inspection itself. Get yourself down there for the day!

Don't drain fluids, like mentioned get someone to turn it over every few weeks to keep it lubricated. By all means drain and refill when your ready to put it back on the road, this would be a very good idea imo, but dont leave the block with no/little oil in for an extended period. I think thats the reason behind turning it over every now and then.

Afraid to say that your idea is not very original fella. Have a look at the members gallery and this should suggest that it does indeed fit, and has been done on numerous occasions.

Lucky you were sceptical about paying by bank transfer eh!

What makes you so sure its fuel related? Could it not be the MAF? On my mk3 golf I had this at 3k rpm and it was caused by a duff MAF. I suppose if I wasn't aware of the symptoms and it being a common problem, I'd be inclined to think it was fuel related.

You'd need to compare it to a wing off an early/late C tbh. Later wings are slightly more flared on the arch.

Looks spot on Owen! Wish I had persevered and moved the expansion tank now!

That'd be me! Glad you got it and were happy mate! I said it was close to the expansion tank and that was the reason I didn't fit it as I didn't wanna go fannying around with it. I said it MAY fit a mk2 golf, not that it came off one though. :thumbleft:

PM Riley and he will give you the discount code too. (6% iirc). :thumbleft:

Fair enough, I wasn't aware he was a forum member and was just going by what you had said which suggested you had seen it a couple of years ago, and had no contact since. :salute:

Not to be negative, but that was 2 years ago and alot of things change. I looked at the Nugget 'TAG' that was on here and was based in Scotland at the time. Its now in Liskeard Cornwall, and was for sale just before Xmas. I went to look as it looked fantastic in the pictures. Unfortunately when I got there, it had been left to rot in a field for quite a while, was filthy inside and out with moss all over, it ran but was seriously rough, and the blow over it had looked terrible around door lines as it hadn't been cut in or anything.

I had a set of TA Technics coilies on my Mk3 Golf (on when I got the car) and although it was a bit stiff, It really wasn't that bad. As long as you don't have budget tyres too, road noise is minimal, and ride is reasonably comfortable. I agree that you should get the best you can afford, but lots of people are more than happy with TA, JOM, Hot tuning, FK etc etc......... As said they state they are standard for all engine sizes etc, but they do make a difference with the VR.

I'm having a similar debate for my rears. All red, or slight tint on DBP...............:shrug:

Ha ha, yeah kinda pick all sorts of sayings up when you work with people from all over the UK. :grin:

Think most just use shims on the top pin to bring it up a bit. Check there is definately play in the pin though by gently lifting the door when its open. I thought mine had dropped as I could see it when it came of the catch. Turns out the catch pin was too high, so I bought some new ones, and a little fettling and it closes a treat and nice and quietly now too.

I think standard door handles look better in black as intended, but obviously flush/aftermarket handles are better colour coded. Just be careful when peeling the moulding off that it doesn't take your basecoat with it! :censored:

The fuel pump relay should only click and "magnetise" once. Get it swapped out for a known good one, only about £12 new from vw anyway. Also worth getting an ECU relay too. Crank sensor is a posibility, but if you know anyone with vagcom in your area to get codes read, that would be of mucho benefit.........o. :scratch::D

Looks a good job. Most smart repairers are actually very good. Unfortunately there are a fair few cowboys out there too which bring their reputation down. I went to an open day at ChipsAway last year up in Kidderminster and was pretty impressed, although I didn't think I could make a decent living from it in my area. That's where most slip up I suppose, as any jobsworth cowboy can buy into a franchise for a few quid, do a short course and off they go ruining good paint! Just remember, when people say to go to a bodyshop to sort dents and scratches, some of them are absolute pish too!

Dunno where best to get the hose from tbh, have you looked on ebay? GSF/ECP may have em although unlikely in stock at your local depot. VW probs charge the earth for them, even if they're still available. When was the last time your coolant was changed? If it wasn't recently, I'd get it changed as a of course anyway, You'll need 2 x 1.5 ltr bottle of G12++ from VW, only about £8 each iirc, then top up with water. If its relatively new, just swap the hose out, top up with the same 50/50 mix, bleed the system in both cases, and away you go.

Ok ok, not cheap but in comparison to newer cars where a second hand elec window switch would cost you £30, they aren't bad tbf. As with anything, there are bargains to be had if your prepared to look and wait a little. :ignore:

Bit late if you've already done a deal to be asking what you should look out for! Most things have been covered and the wiki link is good too. Just check its stone cold (touch the exhaust mannifold to make sure) when you first get there). Start it up with bonnet open, check its not too tappety, its old so will more than likely be a little, but check exhaust smoke too. Remember these are pre-cat, therefore it will smoke more than a modern car, but check the smoke isn't blue or excessive and white. Smell it too, if it smells oily, thats not good. Take for a drive, and make sure the temp gets up to 90 within a few minutes, and stays there. Then check the heater is nice and hot too. If its not, its a big job to sort alot of the time as you will need to change the heater matrix. When you get back, turn it off. Then a few minutes later start it again. Check for water in oil (mayo on cap), and oil in water (you will smell it in the expansion tank or see it sat on top of the water). Check sills, arches, and drain plugs for rust! This is a deal breaker, if you can see holes and serious corrosion, chances are its even worse underneath the underseal! Other than that, as long as the bodywork is reasonably straight, most things are relatively easy and cheap fixes. Obviously check other things as you would on any car (exhaust blows, electrics work etc etc) but again its relatively cheap to sort. Good luck!