seanl82

Rad fan after run switch. If you touch the spade on the block with the engine switched off, the fan should start running. Wont cause any problems at all with it disconnected, it just wont cool down as quickly after switch off.

Hope you get it sorted soon mate. Is there any dispute as to who's at fault? Seems an awful long time to sort it all out. I had an accident in my C (I say me, I was just sat at the lights!), on the Wed 6th. Assessor came out on Fri 8th, and insurance informed me on Mon 11th it was a cat B write-off and made an offer which I accepted. I thought mine was taking a little time and they didn't seem to be very proactive, and I'm insured with Adrian Flux. Again I say I'm insured with them, but for everything (claim, hire car, personal injury, engineers report) have all been palmed off to other companies who I've had to call myself. Just keep badgering them, and tell them your not confident the car is safe to be repaired, and it would cause psychological and anxiety problems for you and the missus if you had to drive it again.

I had it on my KR. It went away for a up to 2 weeks, then just randomly came back for a day or two. It happened at either low or high revs, cold or warm. I changed both sensors, dropped the sump and cleaned the pickup, checked the pump and had it pressure tested, and still never got to the bottom of it. I put it down to either the clocks or the wiring but obviously being intermittent its very hard to track down. I had to live with it.........Until last week. :(

Have a look round bottom of the engine for snail trails (crystalised coolant deposits) for any sign of coolant leak if your not entirely sure the wet carpets are the product of a duff matrix. Give the engine bay a good degrease and pressure wash/steam clean. Unless its absolutely obvious, this is the only way you will be able to pinpoint where you leak/s is/are coming from. Generally small leaks are from perished seals of cars this age, and the back of the head could just be from the rocker cover which is very simple to do, and cheap to replace yourself.

And got what he deserved today! :lol:

No way on earth Fernando Alonso should be anywhere near that list imo. Jumped up little arsehole that thinks he's better than he actually is!

Yeah I thought they were legal due to the fact they identify "accident blackspots" as opposed to speed cameras! :nuts::lol:

I had this on my mk3 too.

Its not a lack of care for the car fella, if the switch is broke anyway, then by breaking it off your not really doing any damage. If you read what I did again, you'll notice it was done using long nosed pliers and a small screwdriver, not a bloody lump hammer and hacksaw to the steering column ffs.

I had the assessor out today too. I was at work though (I did tell them I'd be free from 4pm so to phone me first!), so I don't know what he's said, although I can't see it being anything other than expected. Tbh, if they repaired it, I'd be quite happy as it really needed paint! lol. I got my hire car yesterday too, promised a car of similar type to the C........................... How the f**k is a chinese 5 door cheap piece of crap M bloody G thats the same size as a Passat, in any way, shape or form, of similar type to a 3 door Sports Coupe FFS!:mad2: I so hate modern cars! It has however reaffirmed my love of forced induction. Therefore the plan is to buy another (possibly non runner) Corrado, and convert/bolt on a blower in some way. :dance: Moving to Pompy in 7 weeks though, so I'm gonna have to get a ****ter to run around in as a daily, until we're settle there. The new house should have a nice garage to play in too. :grin:

Bottom of the top piece just rests behind the top of the bottom piece. If you know what I mean! :grin: I'm assuming its the one where your speedo cable goes through that your talking about.? I actually removed mine if it for this exact reason too. :thumbleft: Windows will only go up or down one at a time, although I cant comment on door open, but I don't think thats right. :shrug:

Thanks for comments guys. I was the first one to report it, and I got details from everyone involved. There is no way he can avoid liability tbh, we were all stationary at lights. Its a 40 mph road so he was obviously going some. I was smack bang in the middle, and unfortunately my car was by far the worst off! Still awaiting reports from all others involved but fingers crossed it should be relatively straight forward. Need it sorting by COP tomorrow though as it was my daily too. The lumps on 180k now, and it was starting to show its age a bit. Although I have literally in the last 2 weeks spent £200 on service parts on it, taxed it, and I had a full tank of fuel too! :censored: The rear wheels have a bit of toe out too so rear beam is fecked! Seriously had it, and its no way repairable unfortunately. :( Time to start looking for a nice VR..........:twisted:

1 less KR after today. :(

And another today. :( Sat at traffic lights this morning, and some idiot in a Range Rover decided he doesn't like stopping for lights. He went into the bloke behind me, who went into me, I went into the bloke in front, and he went into a woman. Bye bye Corrado, no way its salvagable unfortunately.

Yeah as mentioned, stealth, TSR, or Awsome GTI have all had past experience doing it. Doesn't mean any of them are still experts in this art form though!

Just be careful with other cars with regard to paint depths on older cars. I know DA's are pretty safe, but with softer paints it will still cause marring. I know the pro's charge a fortune, but they are insured against things like this, and have paint depth gauges to ensure it doesn't happen. Nice little sideline for your mates and on the forum though if people are happy with your work, but don't get your hopes up too much with jacking in work and going full time though mate. A guy on one of the other forums I'm on enquired about it all, contacted used car dealerships and all sorts trying to generate work, It was the insurance that put an end to it. Thats why the Pros charge so much I suppose. :eek:

Standard paper filter has been proved best in these tests on every car forum I've ever been on with various models being tested. So long as their changed every couple of thousand miles so they offer the best flow, used with standard airboxes they come out on top every time. Squirrel, you may as well change the cambelt and tensioner if you changing cams, so will probably cost in the region of £300 all in if you supply the cams for the garage to do it all. (Bear in mind the cambelt kit, rocker gasket etc..) Gas flowing will be much more than that from a specialist, you mention stealth so have a look on their website. I think they list specific stages and rough prices for that sort of work. (It may be TSR but I cant remember, check both.) You'd be better off sourcing a lump from a car thats being broken with all of it done already. You can probably get one with all this for about £100! And I think its very much worth an RR tune once its all done. Stealth/TSR know the specifics of this engine, and know how to get the best out of it. Some back street garage will set it up roughly by the book, probably based on how it sounds in the workshop! Getting it rolling and having a dynamic readout of what the engine is doing is second to none in terms of tuning. :D

I went in from underneath. I used a small flat head screwdriver, and a set of needle nosed pliers. I just started bending and twisting the contacts iirc, and it sort of came apart in a couple of stages. I got enough off to expose the retaining screw on the column side, and I managed to get the screwdriver up and undo it from there.

I couldn't see the screw when I did mine either. Its gotta come out anyway, so just smash the old one off from the bottom. Thats what I ended up doing.

Welcome to Corrado ownership! The KR engine is pretty gutless below 4k RPM to be fair. Very little Torque, but it does like to be revved, and pulls very well all the way to the redline from then on. Other than that, thing to check would be to get timing if it feels sluggish. The rasp you get is probably the backbox resonating at that particular frequency. Could also be any part of your exhaust baffles slightly loose. I know how annoying it is, as my mid box baffles are completely adrift by the sounds of it, and its driving me up the wall! The syncromeshes are notoriously weak in both these gears. You need to be at a complete standstill to select them without it happening, although yours is pretty low milage so your best option is to protect it as much as you possibly can. Was the same on my Golf Mk3 too btw. Get your gear oil Changed. Redline MT90 is the recommended tipple for this application. If this doesn't cure it, new selector and shifter bushes and alignment are the only other options before big money is needed to be thrown at it! Don't worry too much though, they're reasonably strong boxes otherwise! Hope this helps mate. :thumbleft:

None of that looks severe enough to have gone through the metal, although bear in mind, once you've taken all the rust off, spraying with rattle cans will probably make it more noticable than before because of dodgy reflections/blending.

Can anyone point out to me what this wire does please!? Its the front connector on the starter motor as you look at it. Having a bit of a gander around today and noticed it had previously been choc-blocked together! It had come off, although I have no idea when as I'd never noticed it tbh, and there seems to have never been any problems starting. I tried soldering it back together and heatshrinking it, but the solder wouldn't take so I've had to crimp it instead. (Proper crimp tool though.). Cheers!

Ahhhhhh brings back some memories!....................Or not as the case was quite a few times! :grin:

Yeah if your temps are low and don't rise unless your sat in traffic, then 9 times out of 10 its a dodgy thermostat.

Tbf, its not massively offensive, and it does look pretty clean if slightly high milage for the asking price.