seanl82

Fan switch fuses under the expansion tank

seems a lot of hassle and expense for no real gains if their life span is the same anyway..........:shrug:

Are you definately getting fuel too? Do you have an immobiliser? My old immobiliser was the cause of my problems after it got a little wet after I changed my heater matrix. Very common for any electical problems of this nature to be caused by old ones.

Have you tried disconnecting the MAF and starting it? Only reason I ask is that if your K&N is the older oiled type, it can play absolute havoc with the filament, and Kill MAFs in very short order. I may be way off the mark, but its worth a try!

Has decent feedback too tbf. Bit naughty using someone else's car in the pic though.

I had a look on ebay and eventually found one supplier for the regulator, as it was specific to the model number. You will obviously need the serial numbers off your Alt to cross reference there. Other than that, there are alternator/starter motor/battery shops around, (usually tucked away in some grubby part of town) that could source them for you. There is a grubby little shop on the road into town down here that do the above. Google it, you may come up with something local to you. The ones on ebay were about £11 iirc.

Its obvious its getting you down, and as you hate work so much, its never gonna get any better. Go with the Bakery job for the time being, but continue actively searching for another job. There will be one that comes available, be it in a week, a month, or a year. If you're really unhappy mate, don't continue to put yourself through it. You can then leave with a decent reference, and with dignity. Best of luck with whatever you decide. :thumbleft:

Ah got you, sorry. Here, I'm afraid I'm out. I'm sure someone here will know a bit more, but I fear its a bit late now......... I'm sure if you get stuck, a live feed from elsewhere will suffice though.

Do a search mate, covered loads. Fuel pump relay is either 67, 80, or 167 dependant on time of manufacture, and is located on the bottom right of the relay panel just above the fuses. :salute:

I'm not being funny, but I think thats pretty sexual! :norty:

Just re-read it, sorry if I've given you duff info, the injector lines from the metering head are rubber until they reach the hard lines just after bending. They are then hard lines into the injectors. I don't think this will be your problem though, as If I'm reading it right again, you only developed the problem after giving it the service, is that right?

Here is a guide I did on GGTI for my Golf3, but it should be pretty similar. Once the sensor is replaced, you need to drive it to reset the ABS ECU. It will reset at about 15mph. http://www.golfgtiforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=204972.0

Just pull the fuses out one at a time and replace once you've checked. You should see if theres anything obvious.

Have a look on ebay for the convex heated type. About £10 a side mate. Theres a thread on here about it somewhere. :D

VR6 Rads are Uber expensive (circa £200 for pattern parts). If you want a garage to do it, its gonna cost at least another £100. Remember you need to factor in new coolant too. You may as well go for a full flush, thermostat, housing, and seal change whilst your at it. You can re-use your coolant provided its not too old, and you filter it before putting it back in, it should be fine to re-use although not really recommended. If I were you, I'd phone around for prices for a re-core in your area to see if thats a viable option. It'll come back like new anyway! Hope this helps mate!

I expect whilst changing the air filter, you've disturbed one of the vac lines. Have a look round the airbox and see if there's anything amiss, and trace all the pipes checking for air leaks. The injector lines are indeed hard lines, so I don't think this will be anything to do with your problem mate. Hope this helps. :D

If you take off the spade connector, and touch the rocker cover with it, if the fan doesn't run that should tell you. Then touch the lifting point right next to it, and it should run. The switch is obviously open circuit until it gets to temp (100 degs iirc) at which point it makes and earths on block obviously. Powdercoating has obviously interrupted it touching bare metal so I reckon thats your problem mate. :thumbleft:

Hmmmmm, mine was also written off in Plymouth after a nice chap in a Range Rover killed it on the 6th. Google DevonDubShack. Dan who owns it took mine, he has another couple there in various states of dismantling. :thumbleft:

Its far more than that tbh. Just have a good listen, and if its nice and quiet at cold and at idle, there should be absolutely no problem for a fair few years! Look here........ http://wiki.the-corrado.net/the_corrado_buying_guide_checklist.html

Rad fan after run switch. Don't see why you couldn't move it tbh. Just don't hide it in a corner somewhere, as its obviously temperature related therefore decent exposure to engine bay temps is the idea.

Bump!

Still for sale!

Not needed at the scrappy. :( http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/320925849299?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649

Replied mate. :thumbleft:

Bought from ECP last month, 2 weeks before my car was written off. Contitech Timing belt kit Hengst Fuel Filter Bought with GolfGTIForum 25% discount, so cost £44.05 and £9.45 respectively. Been in the kitchen cupboard since unopened. I can do the Timing Belt kit for £36 posted, and the Fuel Filter for £8 posted. Will also put photocopies of the receipts with it to assure you. Car is being picked up for breaking tomorrow so all original receipts will be going with it. :) Cheers, Sean.