seanl82

Think its for the dim dip resistor that should be located on the front upper part of the wing to the right of the battery there mate.

Will go into 'limp' mode if timing is out too. Get it on vagcom and see what it throws up mate.

I bought a 1.8 valver, and tbh I rushed into it. I really wanted a VR, but couldn't get round the cost of running it as a daily in my head. You have to be prepared to bide your time, (I only looked for about a month) and do a fair amount of travelling to find the right one. I saw 3 before mine, and all were about the same condition as mine, although this one was less than half the price of the rest! I travelled as far as Bristol to see the others, but there's just not many about in this neck of the woods. The perfect one IMO would be a standard VR with heated leather and a/c, a slight (35/40mm) drop, and a nice set of rims with slight dish. Thats it as far as performance/enhancing mods go. Maybe a mocal to keep it cool, lupo wipers so you can see in the rain, and uprated light loom so you can see in the dark. Thats it though.

Only on full lock when the pump is at the extreme does mine really make any noise.

Does look good in the picture, although you will need to make sure the rest of the interior is kept nice and clean and shiney to ensure they dont look a bit out of place now. :razz:

You wont achieve professional standards of correction for a long while so trying to compare with what others may have is pointless. The comments above about the Silverline going through lacquer is tosh! Your no more likely with a Silverline as you are with a £400 festool machine. As said, novices just dont do their homework, and try to use loads of pressure on very concentrated areas, and this results in burn through and damage to paintwork. Theres a great, and involved guide on Detailing World about Rotary machines as well as DA's. Do your research and you wont go far wrong. I have a cheap Clarke machine that I've been using for about 6 months now. Its alot heavier than an expensive machine so your arms ache quicker, the lead isn't as long so you have to be more careful when moving round, its not got a digital dial (woop di doo), and its not as good quality so doesn't have as long a warranty. Thats the only real difference between a £40 machine and a £400 machine.

The fault wouldn't clear by just plugging a new sensor in either! The sensor needs a signal from the reluctor, and it will reset once 15mph is reached iirc, or reset via diagnostics port. ALSO, to get the one out of the front on my Golf3, I had to smash the sensor up. Its just a piece of plastic with a load of copper wire inside for christ sake! Why take the beam off!!!! Here is a how to I made on GolfGTIforum for the mk3, my be the same for Corrado too. http://www.golfgtiforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=204972.0

I wash it with AG shampoo conditioner (smells awsome!) using 2 bucket method with microfibre wash mitt, and dry with microfibre towels. Then use AG SRP to polish, and use Chemical Guys Jetseal 109 - Its absolutely immense imo! Wheels can also be sealed with the Jetseal, and I dress the tyres with Turtle wax Wet n Black. Exterior plastics with AG bumper care, and interior with Poorboys Natural look dressing. Most of this stuff is available from Halfrauds so its easily available, the rest I get online. I will be trying out CG petes 53 paste wax soon, although not strictly needed I suppose with a sealant already being used.

Gave her a wash again, been doing it every couple of days lately in anticipation of a hosepipe ban in my area! Also degreased and cleaned the engine bay, and painted rear calipers and carriers up. Will do the fronts next week. ---------- Post added at 2:55 PM ---------- Previous post was at 2:54 PM ---------- ---------- Post added at 2:58 PM ---------- Previous post was at 2:55 PM ---------- You can but it doesn't offer very good lubrication. Any quick detailer will be good, or Demon Shine which is cheap as chips from Asda or anywhere else works very well as a lube or QD too!

Jammy git! Wish something so cheap would happen close to me. :(

Not entirely sure then mate. Check your rad bottom hose to make sure it gets hot at 90 degs. If its siezed half shut it could cause problems, although its pretty rare for them to go like like, they usually get stuck open but its plausible I suppose. If your suspicious of your pressure valves, get them changed as well. I'd also be tempted to change your expansion tank cap if you still have the old black type. They are notorious for venting too soon or not at all, so if its not venting that could cause issues with high temps. Dunno how much the pressure valves are, but would imagine they're reasonably cheap. And stat and expansion cap are very inexpensive so worth a punt regardless. Hope this helps mate.

What colour is the 16v mate?

The pressure valves are on the in and out leg of the heater matrix pipework. If it had the recall, it will have one metal, and one plastic bypass valve, with a small hose running between the two. If your getting excessive pressure, it just bypasses the matrix, thus saving it from springing a leak and possibly scolding you inside the cab. Run the car up to warm from idle, with the expansion tank cap off. Massage the hoses whilst its warming up, including the bottom rad hose. Once at temp, rev up to around 2.5k for 30 seconds, then let it idle for 30 seconds. You should see it bubbling up at the top of the expansion tank if you have an airlock. If it starts boiling over, turn the engine off, leave to cool, and top up to max. Job done!

Ask in the breaking section mate, think thats your only real option tbh.

I also used BG44K as an additive. Ok, its not a patch on removal and overhaul of injectors, but it does make a massive difference. Flow was much better, bores were much cleaner, and fuel consumption was much improved after a tank full. The only thing it didn't make a big difference to was the cold start valve, but its kinda to be expected.

Its quite dark, but I dont think it looks too bad tbh. It was on when I bought the car, and tbf I wanted it off in the winter. Its a PITA when reversing when its dark!

If you can get standard parts very cheaply to replace any mods that you've done, sell the car and the modded parts seperately and you will make a bit more than as a whole. Gives your conscience a clean bill of health then too for not needlessly breaking a good C.

I've been a member on GolfGTI.co.uk for a few years now and I quite like it on there. As in all forums, there will be slight cliques with the longer members who have met up a couple of times, there will be periods where there are members who all think they know everything about everything, and there will always be newer members who don't use the search function and ask questions that have been asked a million times. We've all done it, so just a gentle nudge in the right direction, and answering their question anyway always works and keeps people coming back. Not rocket science, but some people after getting to know their car a little, suddenly become world experts and rip into them. Not the way to keep forums and future classics ticking over imo.

I've mentioned it in a thread before actually. I bought one from GSF (admittedly for my 16v so much less charge current) and it cost me £37 + VAT. That was for exactly the same Bosch as Halfrauds wanted £90 for!

Best off disconnecting the pipe to the filter I reckon. Once thats safely in a large container, remove the filler cap and it should gush out!

Fuel pump relay is in the far right bottom as your looking, and will be either 80, 67, or 167 depending on the date of manufacture.

Are the carrier bolts still available mate?

I changed mine last week for an ECP contitech one. Part Number - 202770045 The PAS belt they supplied though is too small! :bonk:

Obviously need to find out what the garage has done that got them to the point of changing the ecu, but tbh, I'd start from scratch. check to be sure its getting fuel and spark. Have a look in the wiki section on buyers guides, because common problems include coil packs, crank sensors, ignition switches etc etc. All will cause the car to turn over but not start. Get it plugged into vagcom if you can, otherwise its just a process of elimination and use of the mk1 eyeball! good luck.

:grin: If your gonna get it mapped, obviously its better to do it after buying exhaust, air filter, intake manni, exhaust manni, etc etc or whatever performance mods you decide you want. Reason being is that as soon as you add these after a remap, it negates what you've just done. Better off doing other mods before the remap. :D