DriverVR6

I have for sale a Eibach 25mm rear anti roll bar, it is complete with all the fixtures and fittings. £90 collected.

Still for sale and needs to go, so I'm open to sensible offers. It is a very good Sony complete system, with nothing missing and even has the original manuals!! Looks perfect in a Corrado dash.

lilfuzzer, thanks for sending me the pics of the doorcards and seats. However, the (front) door cards you have are the later type, and as I said in my ad I need the early ones. So I'll pass on them at this time. Thanks anyway.

Tried the Eibach 25mm 16v rear ARB on my VR6, and it lines up correctly and so should fit. The fronts are however different in regard to how they fix onto the lower wishbone, and so I believe they cannot be interchanged.

Yeah I know the part numbers are different for the 16v and VR kits, but I thought that was because only the front ARB is different (different fixing methods for front ARB between 16v and VR). I'll report back tomorrow when I try it on the VR and we'll then have the answer.

This is the one I have taken off a 16v, and I'll be trying it on my VR tomorrow. The rear ones for a 16v and VR are both 25mm, so I don't see why they are different as the fixture points are the same.

Dragon, are you sure? I thought the rears are the same, and it's the fronts that are different between 16v and VR...

Yeah been watching this for ages, and sorry to say that none of it has surprised me. They are all lying basterds with their selective amnesia. That's why I treat politicians, councillors, etc with the contempt the feckers deserve. You want to see corruption, then just take a look at the Boards of Directors of councils and public sector organisations. The same faces on each others boards scratching each others backs. All paid for by the tax we pay.........don't get me started on politics lol

Mate, it's in my digs in Shrews, that's why I asked you back in April if you wanted to borrow it as I would have picked it up at the same time as I picked up the K&N filter lol. Not sure when I'm going back there now, but when I'm back there then I'll pick up the gauge for you to borrow. What you need is a dial gauge and vernier gauge (I have both just need to find the vernier gauge as I've not used it for ages). It's easy to do and I'll happily show/talk you through it.

Karl, it's straight forward as long as you have the tool (plate) to lock the camshafts in place. Also, if your pulley does not have a timing TDC mark then you need to mark it by using a dial gauge to get piston 1 at true TDC. I did say a while ago that I had a dial gauge you could borrow but you didn't reply.

I have this one for sale. It was the dealer fitted one in my 93 VR6. Full details are in my advert in the parts for sale section. I'm happy to negotiate on the price. http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?72969-Sony-XR-7071-amp-CDX-A55

Still for sale, open to offers. ---------- Post added at 11:11 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:57 AM ---------- Someone make me an offer I can't refuse (from the film, The Godfather)

Still for sale.

lilfuzzer, that looks like the same as mine, so I've pm'ed you.

JohnnyH, I had a Mazda 6 2.3 Sport saloon, 55 plate. I had it for 2 years as a company car and I have to say it was brilliant, 100% reliable (and cheap to service/parts) great performance, handling and comfort. Mine had leather, Bose sound, and electric everything and I would highly recommend it. The estate will be just as good and even more practical. They are cheap because the are simply overlooked. However, people in the "know" realise how good they are.

I like the look of them. Infact, I've always liked twin round headlights (Capri, mk2 RS2000. Stag....) I wouldn'y convert my VR to them, but I would convert my daily 16V to twin headlights. Wonder if you can still get them.....?

FishWick, think you've read my comment all wrong and misunderstood the point I was making. Most people (didn't say you or everyone) buy a set of coilovers off the shelf and don't even think about having them, or the rest of the car set up to make them work correctly. The result is that the car DOES NOT handle any better than standard. I've spent years using different suspension systems (not all on Corrados) and know and understand that to get the best from them you have to look at every area of the car suspensions system (bushes, springs, tyres, ride height, damper bump & rebound settings, pivot angles and travel, etc). Also, the different components need to work in harmony with each other. And when I say that coilovers are track biased, well they are as that's were they originated from. Racing car teams needed to be able to quickly adjust the ride height to suit track conditions, and coilovers made that possible without having to remove springs every time. The custom car scene then adopted them as they allowed them to lower the car for shows, and then raised it back up for the drive home. A properly set up coilover suspension will be as good as a properly set up fixed height suspension. The key is having it properly set up. Unfortunately, how many people with coilovers adjust the ride height and then go and get the geometry reset, minimum tracking and camber? Take a look at how many second hand alloys get sold with tyres that have their cords showing on the inner side. It never ceases to amze me that people spend mega bucks on suspension systems (coilover or fixed) and forget about the basics. Simply money down the drain. PS. I had a "custom" set of front Leda's for a mk1 Escort RS2000, and they were very very good. (Leda front struts with 175lb -1inch springs and adjustable track control arms and roll top mounts. Bilstein Group A rear dampers with 85lb single leaf -2inch springs. 5 linked axle, poly bushed throughout)

Mookie, my comment wasn't in anyway meant to slate you, and I know that you have only just bought the car, and it was like this when you bought it. The car looks very good, but with the set up as it is at the moment it will not give a good ride or handle well. Handling and comfort is a compromise, but if you go too much either way then the car becomes unenjoyable and/or undriveable (Too soft and high and it will just roll and be pretty scary. Too hard and low and it's wheels will lose contact and adhesion with the road and be dangerous, and completely undriveable in the wet). As some posters have said there is a section of car enthusiasts to whom how the car looks and it's stance is important, and there's nothing wrong with that. I'm more inclined to go for performance and function. The way I see it, a car looking good isn't going to keep it from skidding off into a hedge, or stop it from going into the back of the truck that just braked heavily infront. This is just my opinion, but each to their own.

Jim, Bilstein have been around for over 100 years and they have been successful in Motor Sport for many many years. They also supply OE suspension to manufacturers. It's therefore an easy choice for me to make.... I had Bilstein front and rears on a track Escort, and they lasted for years without leaking or dropping off in performance.

These are the ones I am after. As I said previously they are not the same as the "grey" ones found in the 16v. I'm ideally after a complete set, front and rear, but I am also interested in just the fronts or rears. Also I'm interested in the getting hold of a pair of front seats. Must be rip free with very little bolster wear.

Sensible post and good advice by FishWick. I just don't get the really low, huge wheel and rock hard suspension approach. If it is uncomfortable and doesn't handle any better (infact it will be alot worse with appalling cornering and less efficient braking) then why do it? The only cars that have next to zero suspension travel are F1 cars, and I don't remember seeing one of them driving around on the road?? Also, even F1 cars have large tyres to provide a degree of compliance and "give" in their setup.

Overmind, yeah but everytime you adjust the ride height (up or down) you're altering the tracking and camber. So are you then going to take it to have the tracking and camber done everytime you alter the ride height? Not having the tracking and camber set up correctly is like doing an oil change without changing the oil filter. Or are you going to set the coilovers at your desired ride height and then never alter again, in which case you might as well just go for fixed convential springs and dampers saving yourself a whole load of money. Most people that have coilovers fitted haven't got the geometry set correctly and so their cars aren't handling correctly anyway. So what's the point of having a £400, £500, £600 set of coilovers? This is why I say coilovers are pointless on a road car.

Fangio is in my list at No 3. As I said in my post, I would have liked to have placed some other drivers (Moss, Hill, Fittipaldi, Ascari) in my list maybe in joint positions.

Karlito, does this have a USB port on the front face? Can't see but it looks like it does not? If it does then I'm interested in having this off you.

If you want to use H&R springs then you really should use uprated dampers, so the OE Bilsteins will not be the ones to go for. Research the B6 & B8 Bilstein dampers as they will be better suited. The B12 kit is good, but make sure it lowers the front and rear by the same amount and is not too low. The biggest mistake, in my opinion, that people make is that they go too low and the suspension geometry is all wrong and never works as it should. Just price every different option up and then buy to your budget. As long as you stick to reputable makes of dampers and springs, which are not too low or hard, then you'll not go far wrong. Also take a look at the Koni STRT kit. Very well priced and worked very well on a 16v I'm running.